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Wednesday, September 21, 2005
Santiago Restaurant Recs Part I (English)
Santiago Restaurant Recommendations, Part I:
Due to numerous requests from clients and friends visiting Santiago, I have decided to make my personal list of recommended restaurants now public property. Since there are quite a few (all categorized), it is broken down into two parts. A couple notes on the general dining scene in the city: Santiago’s gastronomy is not all-encompassing like New York, London, Paris, Buenos Aires or other major cosmopolitan cities but if you know where to go, you can get delicious food in different varieties. Have fun, bon appetite, and if you flounder on the drink menu, remember, in Chile, you can never go wrong with a Pisco Sour.
Oh So Chi Chi
Agua
Make sure to look pretty when you make a reservation here, as this is where Santiago’s young and beautiful crowd flocks for some inspirational, fresh, and modern cooking in minimalist digs. The chef has a sure-handed way with seafood and regional meats paired with excellent wines. Expect some attitude and inflated prices but after one of the house martinis, it is merely an afterthought.
Av. Nueva Costanera 3467, Vitacura, 263-0008 (Private Taxi recommended)
Astrid & Gastón
Hands down Santiago’s best restaurant. I cannot seem to find anyone who has not liked the food here, although price is not factored into the equation. Perfect for splurges, the wine list is fantastic (or bring your own bottle and they only charge corkage). Make sure to try the ethereal charred octopus, coconut shrimp, and Easter Island seared tuna. As you wine and dine, watch the kitchen silently work its magic through the plate glass window.
Antonio Bellet 201, Providencia (Metro Pedro de Valdivia)
El Europeo
Located on the “Rodeo Drive” of Santiago Alonso de Cordova (Louis Vitton handbag sightings by the dozen), the renowned Chef Carlos Meyer seems to do no wrong—just ask his following of local food geeks devouring the foie gras, lobster, and abalones delicately prepared. You can dine “en terrace” or in the formal restaurant, and of course, window shop till you drop before or after.
Alonso de Cordova 2471, Vitacura, 208-3603 (Private Taxi Recommended)
The Hipster Bar Scene
Bar Central
This is our default bar if you happen to be on the busy stretch of Avenida Providencia between Manuel Montt and Antonio Varas and cannot get a seat at Liguria or Olio Santo. Drinks are strong (careful here), the house music thumping, the red vinyl seats and checkerboard floor are retro, but the most important thing is: there are tables available.
Providencia 1391, Providencia, 235-9950 (Metro Manuel Montt)
El Toro
Simplicity works—and El Toro is a living testimony of this motto. Still trendy and kicking in Bellavista after many years, its stronghold is its honest, well-executed cuisine, and a cool vibe with good music, funky people, and very gay friendly. It is also one of the few places in Santiago where you can get brunch/lunch on Sunday—perfect for a visit to the Fine Arts museum, only 2 blocks away. The salads are delicious, as are the pastas. The place is small so on a peak night, getting a table can be an issue.
Loreto 33, Recoleta, 737-5937 (Metro Bellas Artes)
Etniko
This super trendy Japanese resto-bar spinning electronic music is a perfect place to chow down on sushi, tempura and mixed drinks before hitting the clubs in Bellavista. Modern décor in a remodeled typical house of the neighborhood adds to the scene. Note: make sure you know where you are going—there is no sign outside, although the crowd at the door is usually a dead give away.
Constitución 172, Bellavista, 732-0119 (Metro Baquedano, although it is a hike)
Kÿ
Funky. Kitsch. Ecelctic. Quasi-Thai food that hits and misses but don’t go here to eat. This is one of the hot bars to hang out at right now, though it is more like an after hours type lounge perfect for mingling over a drink and conversation. Have the direction handy, there is no sign, and if the bouncer fancies it, he may just ask you for the code to get in. Reservations essential on the weekends.
Avda. Perú 631, Recoleta, 777-7245
Zully
Picture this setting: a gorgeous turn-of-the-century plaza with a gurgling fountain lined with gum trees and elegant mansions. Inside, a master restoration of a 20+ room home with hued parquet floors, high ceilings, and sleek, modern furniture and lighting. You can see that food is not the focus here—and it isn’t—but it is worth the trip to check out this hip new restaurant and the traditional European-style barrio which houses it. Drinks and nibbles, definitely.
Concha y Toro 34, Santiago Centro, 696-3990 (Metro Republica)
Martini Bar—Ritz Carlton
Pure loving in the form of a martini—and with 10 pages worth of offerings, which can be a tad overwhelming. The Dirty Martinis and Cosmopolitans are infallible, served with a baby cocktail shaker and glistening olives and crunchy almonds to nosh on. For something more substantial, order off the Wine 365 menu—the tuna tartare and Bloody Mary Oyster Shooters are out of this world. Live piano jazz and cushy leather couches make you feel, like a king (or queen).
El Alcalde 15, Las Condes, 470-8500 (Metro El Golf)
Traditional Chilean
Aqui Está Coco
This is the first and the last word on fresh, excellent seafood in Santiago highlighting traditional Chilean recipes and some newer interpretations. Want to try the raw sea urchins or oysters? Try them here. King crab from the icy Patagonian waters? Can do. The décor is marine-eclectic. Service and wine menu is excellent.
La Concepción 236, Providencia, 235-8649 (Metro Pedro de Valdivia)
Liguria
This is THE Chilean institution. Everybody goes to Liguria. Everybody loves Liguria. It is the common denominator for Santiaguinos. Somewhere between a bistro and bar, Liguria is eclectic, smoky, loud, and full of local color and tons of food. Get there early to nab a table (before 20:00) and try their delicious carne mechada, rump roast slow-cooked in red wine with aromatic vegetables in the form of a sandwich with provolone or as a main dish. Warning: all portions (food and alcohol) are enormous. One plate is enough for two people and one drink has approximately 3 shots (vodka on ice, tonic served “on the side”).
Luis Thayer Ojeda, North side Metro Tobalaba exit (in front of Cruz Verde Pharmacy)
Bar Nacional
Finding this place is half the adventure—so look hard. Nestled on the pedestrian walkway of Huérfanos in the heart of downtown Santiago Centro, this place has been around for 50+ years serving no-nonsense honest food. The formica tables are chipped, the chairs are a little old, and the fluorescent lights can be abrasive, but the food is delicious. Expect excellent classic Chilean dishes (totally seasonal) flawlessly executed. In the winter, order a steaming chicken cazuela (chicken or beef stew) and in the summer, the humitas with tomato salad or Porotos Granados (fresh cranberry beans cooked with pumpkin, corn, and basil), and of course, Pisco Sours. Get there by 13:30 for a seat. Since it is only open for lunch Monday to Friday it gets packed every day.
Húerfanos 1151, Santiago Centro, 696-5986 (Metro Universidad de Chile or Metro Plaza de Armas). Exact Location: on Huérfanos between Morandé and Bandera in front of BCI Bank.
Donde Augusto
Dining in the market is an experience in itself as the Victorian architecture rules here alongside haggling waiters and fishmongers. This is the perfect place to try some traditional seafood dishes like machas a la parmesana, caldillo de congrio, and grilled local fish like vieja (Grouper). Have a peek around the market to check out the sea creatures before they wind up on your plate. Fresh, fresh, fresh—A Sauvignon Blanc with that, please.
Mercado Central, Santiago Centro (Metro Cal y Canto)
Dominó
This is a chain specializing in one thing: hot dogs, or in Chile, completos, hot dogs with the works. Take a seat at the counter in this soda fountain-type joint and order up a “completo italiano”; a beef dog topped with mashed Haas avocado, chopped fresh tomato and mayo (lots of it).
Pedro de Valdivia 28, Providencia (Metro Pedro de Valdivia); Avda. Apoquindo 2832, Las Condes (Metro Tobalaba)
Picada Ana María
A “refined” joint serving up traditional Chilean cuisine with a focus on somewhat exotic meats (pheasant anyone?). Located in the beautiful older neighborhood of Club Hípico, the clientele is varied as word has gotten around: the food is good.
Club Hípico 476, Santiago Centro, 698-4064
Tip y Tap
Mammoth Sandwiches served up a la Chilena. You cannot pick them up. You are obliged by the law of gravity to eat them with a fork and knife. Try the Barros Luco (Cheese steak) or Chacarero (Seared Beef with Tomato, Green Beans, and Chili) with avocado on them, a side of crunchy fries and a Kuntsman draft beer. Don’t worry, they do doggie bags here—and if in the vicinity and feeling unmotivated to go out, they deliver!
Isidora Goyenechea 2922, Las Condes, 334-3302 (Metro Tobalaba)
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