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Wednesday, September 21, 2005
Santiago Restaurant Recs Part I (English)
Santiago Restaurant Recommendations, Part I:
Due to numerous requests from clients and friends visiting Santiago, I have decided to make my personal list of recommended restaurants now public property. Since there are quite a few (all categorized), it is broken down into two parts. A couple notes on the general dining scene in the city: Santiago’s gastronomy is not all-encompassing like New York, London, Paris, Buenos Aires or other major cosmopolitan cities but if you know where to go, you can get delicious food in different varieties. Have fun, bon appetite, and if you flounder on the drink menu, remember, in Chile, you can never go wrong with a Pisco Sour.
Oh So Chi Chi
Agua
Make sure to look pretty when you make a reservation here, as this is where Santiago’s young and beautiful crowd flocks for some inspirational, fresh, and modern cooking in minimalist digs. The chef has a sure-handed way with seafood and regional meats paired with excellent wines. Expect some attitude and inflated prices but after one of the house martinis, it is merely an afterthought.
Av. Nueva Costanera 3467, Vitacura, 263-0008 (Private Taxi recommended)
Astrid & Gastón
Hands down Santiago’s best restaurant. I cannot seem to find anyone who has not liked the food here, although price is not factored into the equation. Perfect for splurges, the wine list is fantastic (or bring your own bottle and they only charge corkage). Make sure to try the ethereal charred octopus, coconut shrimp, and Easter Island seared tuna. As you wine and dine, watch the kitchen silently work its magic through the plate glass window.
Antonio Bellet 201, Providencia (Metro Pedro de Valdivia)
El Europeo
Located on the “Rodeo Drive” of Santiago Alonso de Cordova (Louis Vitton handbag sightings by the dozen), the renowned Chef Carlos Meyer seems to do no wrong—just ask his following of local food geeks devouring the foie gras, lobster, and abalones delicately prepared. You can dine “en terrace” or in the formal restaurant, and of course, window shop till you drop before or after.
Alonso de Cordova 2471, Vitacura, 208-3603 (Private Taxi Recommended)
The Hipster Bar Scene
Bar Central
This is our default bar if you happen to be on the busy stretch of Avenida Providencia between Manuel Montt and Antonio Varas and cannot get a seat at Liguria or Olio Santo. Drinks are strong (careful here), the house music thumping, the red vinyl seats and checkerboard floor are retro, but the most important thing is: there are tables available.
Providencia 1391, Providencia, 235-9950 (Metro Manuel Montt)
El Toro
Simplicity works—and El Toro is a living testimony of this motto. Still trendy and kicking in Bellavista after many years, its stronghold is its honest, well-executed cuisine, and a cool vibe with good music, funky people, and very gay friendly. It is also one of the few places in Santiago where you can get brunch/lunch on Sunday—perfect for a visit to the Fine Arts museum, only 2 blocks away. The salads are delicious, as are the pastas. The place is small so on a peak night, getting a table can be an issue.
Loreto 33, Recoleta, 737-5937 (Metro Bellas Artes)
Etniko
This super trendy Japanese resto-bar spinning electronic music is a perfect place to chow down on sushi, tempura and mixed drinks before hitting the clubs in Bellavista. Modern décor in a remodeled typical house of the neighborhood adds to the scene. Note: make sure you know where you are going—there is no sign outside, although the crowd at the door is usually a dead give away.
Constitución 172, Bellavista, 732-0119 (Metro Baquedano, although it is a hike)
Kÿ
Funky. Kitsch. Ecelctic. Quasi-Thai food that hits and misses but don’t go here to eat. This is one of the hot bars to hang out at right now, though it is more like an after hours type lounge perfect for mingling over a drink and conversation. Have the direction handy, there is no sign, and if the bouncer fancies it, he may just ask you for the code to get in. Reservations essential on the weekends.
Avda. Perú 631, Recoleta, 777-7245
Zully
Picture this setting: a gorgeous turn-of-the-century plaza with a gurgling fountain lined with gum trees and elegant mansions. Inside, a master restoration of a 20+ room home with hued parquet floors, high ceilings, and sleek, modern furniture and lighting. You can see that food is not the focus here—and it isn’t—but it is worth the trip to check out this hip new restaurant and the traditional European-style barrio which houses it. Drinks and nibbles, definitely.
Concha y Toro 34, Santiago Centro, 696-3990 (Metro Republica)
Martini Bar—Ritz Carlton
Pure loving in the form of a martini—and with 10 pages worth of offerings, which can be a tad overwhelming. The Dirty Martinis and Cosmopolitans are infallible, served with a baby cocktail shaker and glistening olives and crunchy almonds to nosh on. For something more substantial, order off the Wine 365 menu—the tuna tartare and Bloody Mary Oyster Shooters are out of this world. Live piano jazz and cushy leather couches make you feel, like a king (or queen).
El Alcalde 15, Las Condes, 470-8500 (Metro El Golf)
Traditional Chilean
Aqui Está Coco
This is the first and the last word on fresh, excellent seafood in Santiago highlighting traditional Chilean recipes and some newer interpretations. Want to try the raw sea urchins or oysters? Try them here. King crab from the icy Patagonian waters? Can do. The décor is marine-eclectic. Service and wine menu is excellent.
La Concepción 236, Providencia, 235-8649 (Metro Pedro de Valdivia)
Liguria
This is THE Chilean institution. Everybody goes to Liguria. Everybody loves Liguria. It is the common denominator for Santiaguinos. Somewhere between a bistro and bar, Liguria is eclectic, smoky, loud, and full of local color and tons of food. Get there early to nab a table (before 20:00) and try their delicious carne mechada, rump roast slow-cooked in red wine with aromatic vegetables in the form of a sandwich with provolone or as a main dish. Warning: all portions (food and alcohol) are enormous. One plate is enough for two people and one drink has approximately 3 shots (vodka on ice, tonic served “on the side”).
Luis Thayer Ojeda, North side Metro Tobalaba exit (in front of Cruz Verde Pharmacy)
Bar Nacional
Finding this place is half the adventure—so look hard. Nestled on the pedestrian walkway of Huérfanos in the heart of downtown Santiago Centro, this place has been around for 50+ years serving no-nonsense honest food. The formica tables are chipped, the chairs are a little old, and the fluorescent lights can be abrasive, but the food is delicious. Expect excellent classic Chilean dishes (totally seasonal) flawlessly executed. In the winter, order a steaming chicken cazuela (chicken or beef stew) and in the summer, the humitas with tomato salad or Porotos Granados (fresh cranberry beans cooked with pumpkin, corn, and basil), and of course, Pisco Sours. Get there by 13:30 for a seat. Since it is only open for lunch Monday to Friday it gets packed every day.
Húerfanos 1151, Santiago Centro, 696-5986 (Metro Universidad de Chile or Metro Plaza de Armas). Exact Location: on Huérfanos between Morandé and Bandera in front of BCI Bank.
Donde Augusto
Dining in the market is an experience in itself as the Victorian architecture rules here alongside haggling waiters and fishmongers. This is the perfect place to try some traditional seafood dishes like machas a la parmesana, caldillo de congrio, and grilled local fish like vieja (Grouper). Have a peek around the market to check out the sea creatures before they wind up on your plate. Fresh, fresh, fresh—A Sauvignon Blanc with that, please.
Mercado Central, Santiago Centro (Metro Cal y Canto)
Dominó
This is a chain specializing in one thing: hot dogs, or in Chile, completos, hot dogs with the works. Take a seat at the counter in this soda fountain-type joint and order up a “completo italiano”; a beef dog topped with mashed Haas avocado, chopped fresh tomato and mayo (lots of it).
Pedro de Valdivia 28, Providencia (Metro Pedro de Valdivia); Avda. Apoquindo 2832, Las Condes (Metro Tobalaba)
Picada Ana María
A “refined” joint serving up traditional Chilean cuisine with a focus on somewhat exotic meats (pheasant anyone?). Located in the beautiful older neighborhood of Club Hípico, the clientele is varied as word has gotten around: the food is good.
Club Hípico 476, Santiago Centro, 698-4064
Tip y Tap
Mammoth Sandwiches served up a la Chilena. You cannot pick them up. You are obliged by the law of gravity to eat them with a fork and knife. Try the Barros Luco (Cheese steak) or Chacarero (Seared Beef with Tomato, Green Beans, and Chili) with avocado on them, a side of crunchy fries and a Kuntsman draft beer. Don’t worry, they do doggie bags here—and if in the vicinity and feeling unmotivated to go out, they deliver!
Isidora Goyenechea 2922, Las Condes, 334-3302 (Metro Tobalaba)
04:35 Posted in RESTAURANT RECS & REVIEWS | Permalink | Comments (0) | Email this
Sunday, September 18, 2005
El 18 (Revista Mujer 18-09-05, Edición 1197)
Por Liz Caskey
“Liz, prueba esto”, me dice un amigo chileno vestido de huaso. Tomo un sorbo de una copa plástica llena de un líquido rosé con sabor dulce y alcohólico. “Qué es?” pregunto. “Chicha”. Espero una explicación pero sólo llega en la forma de una empanada y un consejo de comerlas juntas. Estamos en una fonda en Tongoy. Es mi primer dieciocho en Chile.
Años después, estoy con mi pareja en el campo de Talca. Su mamá nos mandó a buscar las empanadas “calduhas” de la Sra. María en San Clemente. Al parecer, llegamos a una casa particular, pero en realidad es una fábrica de empanadas. Una docena de personas trabajan en forma rítmica amasando y cortando la masa; llenándola con pino aromático; doblándola como un pañal; y finalmente, pintándola con huevo batido y directo al horno. El producto final sale dorado con un vapor increíble escapando de sus bordes. Llevamos varias para el asado. A medio camino, vuelta loca por el olor, no aguanto más la tentación y saco una, aún caliente. Su masa es crujiente y delicada; la carne se derrite en la boca; las pasas rubias, huevo duro y aceituna juegan en la boca con su textura y sabor. Es exquisita. Lamento no tener un vino tinto para acompañarla.
Llegamos a la casa y siento el olor de carbón y aroma ahumado-picante de longaniza, ya cociendo en la parrilla. Ha partido el asado del 18. La parrilla es el centro del espectáculo con los hinchas rodeándola, esperando los resultados deliciosos. Lo que más aprecio y me gusta del 18 es como la gente se reúne y comparte en esta fecha. Para algunos, pasa en una fonda con chicha y anticuchos bailando música ranchera; para otros, acontece en un asado con empanadas, choripan y vino. Pero la sensación siempre es de fraternidad, alegría--y buena comida. Mi suegro me ofrece una copa de vino tinto y acepto. Las empanadas ricas aparecen de nuevo. Acepto una también. Me acuerdo de esa primera chicha y empanada en Tongoy. Pienso en cúan loco es que estas tradiciones, que antes parecían lejanas, se han incorporado a mi vida ahora. Hacemos un brindis por el 18 y por Chile. Levanto mi copa y sonrío--después de todo, Chile es mi país adoptado.
Feliz 18 a todos.
12:40 Posted in MUJER MAGAZINE-La Tercera Newspaper (Chile) | Permalink | Comments (0) | Email this
Sunday, September 11, 2005
Transporte de Olfato: Casa de los Espirítus
Cuando era niña, me escondía en la despensa para oler la diversidad de especias y hierbas secas que usaba mi madre para cocinar. Adoraba los aromas a canela picante, cardamomo sensual, comino térreo y lavanda fragante, me transportaron a tierras lejanas y culturas exóticas. Creciendo en un somnoliento pueblo de Pennsylvania, fue un escape emocionante, aunque etéreo, para viajar el mundo a través de mi olfato.
Hace unas semanas, mi pareja y yo fuimos a Santa Cruz por el fin de semana. En esta ocasión, más que los vinos, estaba interesada en conocer un lugar que elabora licores artesanales: La Casa de los Espíritus. Honestamente, no tenía idea qué esperar. Un viernes helado, al atardecer, llegamos a la Casa, fuimos recibidos por su anfitriona y una de los artífices de los Espíritus, María. Es una casa de campo típica, rescatada hermosamente con largos pasillos, piso parquet, muros de adobe expuesto y techos altos. Se veía suave y acogedor con la envolvente luz dorada de las docenas de velas prendidas.
Maria nos guió a través del proceso para elaborar los Espíritus, hechos de aguardiente macerado con una variedad de hierbas, especias y frutos. Durante la visita, sentí una sensación muy familiar. No fue dejá vu, sino un olor que no había sentido en muchos años. En medio de la degustación, la mesa ahora cubierta con pequeños vasos de coloridos licores, logré finalmente identificar el aroma. Provenía de la colección de hierbas secas colgadas desde las vigas. El olor me transportó a una pequeña tienda gourmet en mi pueblo natal que me encantaba de niña. Mi mamá y abuela me llevaban ahí para comprar té, café, hierbas y especias. Mientras compraban, yo recorría la tienda en silencio, absorbiendo los olores en una sobrecarga sensorial para mi nariz. En esencia, yo estaba simplemente descubriendo mi olfato. Más tarde, cuando era más grande y ya podía cocinar sola, el entrenamiento de mi nariz me guió en reemplazo de recetas.
Ahora, de vuelta en Chile 2005, el golpe de memoria me había dejado mareada. Inhalé profundamente, volada de recuerdos idílicos de mi niñez. De improviso, sentí una ola de nostalgia fuerte. Se fue y se reemplazó con un sentimiento muy cálido. Miré a mi pareja y me sonreí. Me sentí realmente afortunada, haber revivido un instante de mi niñez en este mi país adoptado.
Para visitas, llamar a la Casa de los Espíritus de Colchagua, (72) 822-754 o directo al Hotel Santa Cruz Plaza, (72) 821-010.
20:10 Posted in RAMBLINGS | Permalink | Comments (0) | Email this