Monday, October 03, 2005
Beyond the Vines: Bordeaux Emerges (LAN Airlines-IN Magazine: October 2005)
By Liz Caskey
Most visitors come to tour Bordeaux’s acclaimed Appellations and Chateaux, although the city offers much more. Its neoclassical architecture has recently gotten a facelift giving it renewed 18th-century grandeur; a brand-new, modern tram system has revamped city transportation; the city boasts excellent museums, lively nightlife and restaurants, and beaches and medieval towns close by. Here is the quick guide to checking out the local scoop:
THE CITY
Musée des Beaux-Arts, 20 cours d’Albret, Jardin du Palais-Rohan, (33-5) 56.10.20.56
Housed in two wings of the Hotel de Ville built in the 1770s with an outstanding collection of 15th to the 20th century works. Wed. through Sunday, 11am-6pm. Admission: 4.50 Euros.
Housed in two wings of the Hotel de Ville built in the 1770s with an outstanding collection of 15th to the 20th century works. Wed. through Sunday, 11am-6pm. Admission: 4.50 Euros.
Tourism Office, www.bordeaux-tourisme.com
Arranges walking tours of Old Bordeaux in English and French, in addition to visits to wineries and other tourist points.
Arranges walking tours of Old Bordeaux in English and French, in addition to visits to wineries and other tourist points.
Le Vieux Bordeaux (Modern French), 27 Rue Buhan, (33-5) 56.52.94.36
A neighborhood institution, this restaurant has been a local favorite for over two decades. The menu has adjusted with the times and continues to offer very modern dishes through a fusion of styles emphasizing local ingredients like the foie gras made with Lillet (an alcoholic drink in the region); or roasted sea bass on pulverized black olives.
A neighborhood institution, this restaurant has been a local favorite for over two decades. The menu has adjusted with the times and continues to offer very modern dishes through a fusion of styles emphasizing local ingredients like the foie gras made with Lillet (an alcoholic drink in the region); or roasted sea bass on pulverized black olives.
La Tupina (Traditional French), 6 Rue Porte de la Monnaie, (33-5) 56.91.56.37; Fax (33-5) 56.31.92.11, www.latupina.com
By a big fireplace, Jean-Pierre Xiradakis roasts magnificent meats with deep flavors, especially duck and chicken, his specialties. His foie gras and cèpes, preserved in-house, are typical of Southwest France.
By a big fireplace, Jean-Pierre Xiradakis roasts magnificent meats with deep flavors, especially duck and chicken, his specialties. His foie gras and cèpes, preserved in-house, are typical of Southwest France.
Gravelier (Modern French), 114 Cours de Verdun, (33-5) 56.48.17.15; Fax (33-5) 56.51.96.07
This modern bistro is a star: up-to-date French cuisine with classic touches, bright lime green and tangerine orange décor. Yves Gravelier, who trained with Freddy Girardet, does magic with pigeon, and his 12-hour melt-your-mouth lamb with asparagus are a marvel.
AROUND BORDEAUX
This modern bistro is a star: up-to-date French cuisine with classic touches, bright lime green and tangerine orange décor. Yves Gravelier, who trained with Freddy Girardet, does magic with pigeon, and his 12-hour melt-your-mouth lamb with asparagus are a marvel.
AROUND BORDEAUX
Saint-Émilion
Only 35 kilometers northeast of Bordeaux, Saint-Émilion is the oldest wine region of Bordeaux with a historic vineyard landscape and a quaint medieval town situated on two limestone hills that look out over the Dordogne River valley. It is also a quaffer’s delight, perfect for meandering its charming cobblestone streets and plazas, shopping at the liver-testing 50-odd wine shops, or snacking on its famous macaroons. Dine at the locals’ favorite, L’Envers du Décor, for regional specialties and excellent duck. Stay for sunset when the town takes on a luscious golden hue, or take the road less traveled back to Bordeaux; winding country roads through quintessential French villages, ruins, and of course, vineyards.
L’Envers du Décor, 5 Rue de Clocher, Saint-Émilion, (33-5) 57.74.48.31
www.saint-emilion-tourism.com
Only 35 kilometers northeast of Bordeaux, Saint-Émilion is the oldest wine region of Bordeaux with a historic vineyard landscape and a quaint medieval town situated on two limestone hills that look out over the Dordogne River valley. It is also a quaffer’s delight, perfect for meandering its charming cobblestone streets and plazas, shopping at the liver-testing 50-odd wine shops, or snacking on its famous macaroons. Dine at the locals’ favorite, L’Envers du Décor, for regional specialties and excellent duck. Stay for sunset when the town takes on a luscious golden hue, or take the road less traveled back to Bordeaux; winding country roads through quintessential French villages, ruins, and of course, vineyards.
L’Envers du Décor, 5 Rue de Clocher, Saint-Émilion, (33-5) 57.74.48.31
www.saint-emilion-tourism.com
Archachon Basin and Coast
Locals head for nearby Arcachon, a popular fin-de-siècle resort on a tidal bay; or the chic Cap Ferret, a speedy hop by ferry. Boats run around the lagoon itself, taking in the massive oyster beds and the Ilhe aux Oiseaux, a Robinson Crusoe-esque island. Visit the impressive sand dunes such as the Dune de Pyla on the wild Atlantic ocean; and try the local delicacy: oysters from Gujan Mestras.
www.lege-capferret.com
Locals head for nearby Arcachon, a popular fin-de-siècle resort on a tidal bay; or the chic Cap Ferret, a speedy hop by ferry. Boats run around the lagoon itself, taking in the massive oyster beds and the Ilhe aux Oiseaux, a Robinson Crusoe-esque island. Visit the impressive sand dunes such as the Dune de Pyla on the wild Atlantic ocean; and try the local delicacy: oysters from Gujan Mestras.
www.lege-capferret.com
DELUXE TREATMENT
Les Sources de Caudalie
With the backdrop of the Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte vineyards, this swish four-star charmê hotel has combined old Bordeaux with modern luxury in an estate setting. Dine in one of their outstanding restaurants, indulge yourself with one their wine spa treatments, visit the vineyards with a cellar tasting, or quite simply, sit back, relax, and be pampered.
www.sources-caudalie.com
With the backdrop of the Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte vineyards, this swish four-star charmê hotel has combined old Bordeaux with modern luxury in an estate setting. Dine in one of their outstanding restaurants, indulge yourself with one their wine spa treatments, visit the vineyards with a cellar tasting, or quite simply, sit back, relax, and be pampered.
www.sources-caudalie.com
Hauterive Saint James
Surrounded by idyllic French countryside, just a few minutes outside Bordeaux in Bouliac, is the Hauterive Saint James, a classic French country hotel with a twist. French architect Jean Nouvel built the St. James in steel and glass, focusing on cutting-edge design and zen-inflected minimalist spaces, all with a view from its hilltop; including the sleek black swimming pool. The cuisine also is one of the main attractions here; Chef Michel Porto’s gourmet restaurant with its extensive wine list attracts epicures and wine lovers from all over.
www.saintjames-bouliac.com
Surrounded by idyllic French countryside, just a few minutes outside Bordeaux in Bouliac, is the Hauterive Saint James, a classic French country hotel with a twist. French architect Jean Nouvel built the St. James in steel and glass, focusing on cutting-edge design and zen-inflected minimalist spaces, all with a view from its hilltop; including the sleek black swimming pool. The cuisine also is one of the main attractions here; Chef Michel Porto’s gourmet restaurant with its extensive wine list attracts epicures and wine lovers from all over.
www.saintjames-bouliac.com
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