« 2005-09 | HomePage | 2005-11 »
Wednesday, October 19, 2005
Chilean Liquid Gold
Today the 3rd annual Chilean Olive Oil "Summit" was held by Chileoliva, the Association of Chilean Olive Oil Producers. Most people (including many Chileans) don't realize it, but olive oil in Chile is quickly becoming the next hottest gastronomic commodity, following the wine suit with the majority of production exported abroad and providing consumers with a great price-quality ratio. The focus of the event is for the whole industry to get together to share knowledge and experiences ranging from agricultural and planting issues to developing business models; and of course, a schmooze and networking session.
Sure, sounds interesting, but given it was a whole day endeavor, I had to prioritize so I opted to attend purely the hands-on (read: fun) part: the guided tasting. I am by no means an olive oil taster extraordinaire but I have been to my fair share. I must confess that I was a tad disappointed by the content of the lecture part. The presenter, an Italian "capo", or in Chilean spanish "absolute master", of olive oil, rambled on and on in untranslated Italian for a good while before actually getting to the tasting (which was in plastic cups, some of the effect was definitely lost).
Since olive oil tasting is less known than wine tasting, I thought I would give some tips to trying it at home. It really is a good time, especially before a dinner party. You can sop up the leftovers with sourdough or baguette and they pair beautifully with wine.
Olive Oil Tips: DO try this at home
Lesson 1: For good olive oil, just as with wine, the primary ingredients are key. Don't buy crappy or cheap olive oil. Chances are it is rancid. Know what you are buying and try different brands and varieties. Just as with vino, styles, mixes, and olives vary. Just because it says "extra virgin" doesn't guarantee anything, many places can buy bulk and bottle. Try to be educated about what you are buying.
Lesson 2: You may say, I don't know what good olive oil is or how it should be. First clue or suspicion that an olive oil is a bomb: it smells like black olives. This is because rancid olive oil is made from fermenting olives (that's right, those babies are cooking in their own juices long before they get to the press). Once again, primary ingredients. No spiffy Italian machinery will chemically improve olive oil if the olives aren't perfect. A beautiful olive oil will have a fruity, herbaceous nose; slight bitterness on the palate; and a peppery note on the back of the throat. A balanced oil will have these harmlessly melded together, in varying strengths.
I am going to throw in a note here about rancid olive oil in general. Most of the world produces, sells, buys, and consumes "spoilt" olive oil. Spain is one of the major culprits of this, so in my personal experience, beware of those tinned Spanish olive oils. As we learned above, olive oil ironically should not taste nor smell like olives.
Lesson 3: Olive oil has a very short shelf life. Try to consume it as close as possible to the date when it is pressed and bottled. Do NOT employ wine aging tactics here. The curve towards spoilage is downwards (meaning it starts great and gets progressively less impressive over the course of its life). On average, olive oil from say 2005, should be consumed in 2005. Try this little experiment. Buy two bottles of a great cold press extra virgin oil you like, close to the date it is pressed and bottled (this is not as hard as it sounds, especially if you live in California). Try and consume one immediately (in Chile Harvest is in May so I am thinking this must be October/November in California or Italy). Save the other one for 6-8 months later and then try. The difference is literally palatable. Eat/drink up young.
Also, dark bottles go far towards prolonging the life of oil as it saves it from light exposure. However, if you are a hard core olive oil consumer (like most Italians who consume 21+ liters per year per PERSON), I doubt this ever becomes an issue.
Lesson 4: Taste all olive oil with hunger. Your palate is more receptive and the flavors will seem more intense. My fellow food writer friend Daniel Greve, who took a 10-day course on Olive oil tasting Rome, informed me of this little detail this morning--as we sat there fighting over the last baguette slice.
Tasting 101: Basic Technique (this will not be graded)
1. Real olive oil tastings use glass small cups, similar to rounded votive candle holders. These are shaded blue to mask the color of the oil as it is in unimportant in the evaluation of an oil. If you cannot find any, no problem. Just don't make any final judgments based on color; it can be deceiving. The reason these little cups are rounded is that you can twist them in your hand to "heat up" the oil (more in number 3.).
2. Get some decent fresh bread (baguette or sourdough work well); or peeled and sliced green (Granny Smith) apples. You need these snacks between oils to refresh the palate. Personally, I find the acidity of the green apple much more refreshing and cleansing.
3. To get going, measure out a tablespoon or so (good drizzle if you guesstimate) into the glass cups. Take one of the cups in your hand. Grab it with all your fingers in a good grip, and turn right and left in your other hand, palm cupped. As I mentioned above, you are creating friction and therefore heat to slightly heat the olive oil. In professional olive oil courses, they have machines that do this, but remember, this is the "home" version. Turn the oil about 20 times, smelling the oil frequently for its fruity, herbaceous aromas.
4. Now to taste the oil. Just a little sip, but enough to cover the tongue but there is a trick to doing this right. Suck it! And when I mean suck it, as in draw in air, force it through your front teeth, moving your lips in what looks like a fake smile. It should make a loud hissing sound and you MUST use your facial muscles. This is no time to be shy. You are trying to cover the tongue and palate with the olive and perceive the largest amount of sensations possible. Once in your mouth, apart from the oil "texture" covering the mouth, you will also perceive some amount of bitterness (this is desirable in a good oil to a certain extent) and then, my favorite part, the prickly, peppery, spicy notes in the back of your throat.
You can spit or swallow here. I find spitting less desirable than with wine as it is not liquid and has less volume (okay, it can be downright gross). You "sip" so little, a few drops won't hurt you so I suggest just swallowing it. In fact, most doctors would argue it is good for you.
Experiment. There are all kinds of great olive oils with different styles, "terroir", olives, etc. I have found through trial and error that I love the really green, wild, spicy oils right off the press. Other people adore more balanced oils (where the bitterness and spiciness is less)--these tend to be more popular generallly as they appeal to a wide audience.
Buena suerte!
05:05 Posted in RAMBLINGS | Permalink | Comments (0) | Trackbacks (0) | Email this
Monday, October 17, 2005
The "Body" of Wine
The other night at a wine dinner, engrossed in intense conversation among people in the food and wine industry in Chile , the most memorable part of the evening was perhaps the description of wine by the winemaker of Amayna (Viña Garcés Silva), Claudia Gomez. She described a Bordeaux-style blend (as assembled in Chile) as a womanly figure and how the different varieties work together to create a wine diva:
"Cabernet Sauvignon is the skeleton of the wine. Since most guys don't like raily girls, we start filling in with flesh, or the Carmenere (indicating and drawing with a pencil, "here, here, here and here", not unlike a plastic surgeon). Then, since excess body fat is not all that attractive we need to add some muscle tone to firm up the body so here we add some Merlot. If we really want the wine to get ripped and show some muscles, a touch of Cabernet Franc. And finally, all women know that a healthy glow (read: tan) makes you look better so in winemaking, we blend in a little petit verdot for those finishing notes."
That's the body of a perfect wine--or woman.
00:35 Posted in RAMBLINGS | Permalink | Comments (0) | Trackbacks (0) | Email this
Sunday, October 16, 2005
Los sabores de Paris (VIAJES Magazine, La Tercera Newspaper, 16-09-05)
Por Liz Caskey
La sofisticación sútil de un bistro para probar una mano tradicional, o quizás moderna, de los clásicos franceses como entrecote o terrine. El ruido, humo y encanto de los brasseries con buenos amigos y conversación hasta tarde. Los restaurants del “momento” de alto diseño y nuevos conceptos de los chefs más cotizados como Joël Rebouchon. La elegancia de los restaurantes de haute cuisine, premiados con estrellas de Michelin y seguidos por devotos gastronómicos. Un domingo relejado en alguna plaza o terraza, disfrutando un brunch Parisino entre amigos o familia, con o sin la Torre Eiffel en el fondo. Los aromas sensuales y seductores de tierras lejanas de las ex-colonias francesas, llegando en un vapor a su mesa: tagine marroquí; o amok Cambodiano; o un maffé africano de Senegal. Esta es una pequeña muestra del escenario culinario de Paris. En una ciudad manejada completamente por su paladar no es de extrañar que muchos llamen a la capital francesa la “Mecca” de la cocina. Lo es. Descubrir la cuidad por su gastronomía es un vehículo delicioso para acercarse a la idiosincrasia, la cultura y entender mejor lo que hace girar a esta ciudad.
Paris es una cuidad cosmopolita hecha de un abánico de villas, llamadas arrondissements. Cada uno tiene su propio sabor y estilo. Para explorarlos, basta con salir a pasear sus calles encantadoras mirando las vitrinas preciosas y parando a tomar un café en la esquina. Si se enamoran de algun barrio (que es muy probable) vaguen más tiempo en sus tiendas, sus boulangeries, sus ferias, sus bistros—esto es el Paris de los Parisinos—la riqueza de su vida diaria y alguna explicación de la profunidad de su relación con la gastronomía. Sólo sigan su olfato (literalmente) a donde hay gente local. Ahora, dicho esto, París sí es una ciudad con miles de direcciones y datos gastronómicos donde todos tienen sus favoritos. Este guía son algunas recomendaciones para sacarle el provecho culinario a su visita. En Paris, si exploran por bastante tiempo es posible que puedan descubrir esto sólos—pero, ¿por qué arriesgarse? Bon Appetit.
Restaurantes
En París es recomendable hacer reservas con bastante anticipación en cualquier restaurante menos los más sencillos (como creperías o cafés). Para los restaurants de haute cuisine, las reservas deben estar hechas previamente al viaje para asegurarse de su mesa. En los lugares que no aceptan reservas y son muy populares, es aconsejable llegar temprano.
Aux Lyonnais: Un retro bistro de 1890 rescatado por el chef Alain Ducasse, defensor de la tradición culinaria francesa. El menú abarca la cocina regional clásica de Lyon con platos como lechón con foie gras o quenelles con camarones de río. 32 Rue St-Marc, 2º (01-42-96-65-04), Metro: Bourse, 12:00-14:00 y 19:30 a 23:00 Martes a Viernes; 19:30 a 23:00 Sábado. Precio Promedio: €23-30. Menú Prix fixe: €28.
Chez Michel: Cerca al Gare du Nord enfoca en la cocina regional de la Britania en las manos de un maestro moderno. Las entradas son espectaculares y los postres—dejen espacio. 10 Rue de Belzunce, 10º (01-44-53-06-20), Metro: Gare du Nord, Martes a Viernes 12:00-14:00 y 19:00-00:00. Precio Promedio: €23-30.
Chez Omar: Este restaurant nor-africano no acepta reservas y después de las 9pm, la cola es l-a-r-g-a. Todos están esperando lo mismo: couscous y merguez (chorizo marroqui) increíble. 47 Rue de Bretagne, 3o, (01-42-72-36-26), Metro: Temple, 12:00-14:30 y 19:00-23:30 Martes a Sábado; 12:30-16:00 Domingo. Precio Promedio: €20-25.
Creperie du Cluny: Una crepería tradicional para crepas que derriten-en-su-boca, saladas y dulces. Prueben la cidra de manzana, un clásico con las crepas. Muy económico y para todos. 20 Rue de la Harpe, 5o (01-43-26-08-38), Metro: St-Michel. Precio Promedio: €10.
Georges: En la terraza del Museu Pompidou, es este restaurant muy “top” con decoración minimalista de Philippe Starck y una vista panorámica de todo París. En la noche sus monumentos brillan como estrellas. La comida es puramente un detalle. Place Georges Pompidou, 19 Rue Beaubourg, 4º (01-44-78-47-99) Metro: Châtelet o Rambateau, Miércoles a Lunes 12:00-02:00. Cerrado Martes. Precio Promedio Cena: €30+. Trago y picoteo: €20.
L’Atelier de Joël Rebouchon: El chef experto con su concepto nuevo: “Coffee Shop” neoyorquino se fusiona con bar de tapas de alta gastronomía. Los resultados son un manjar y ha vuelta una Mecca para los foodies. No aceptan reservas—lleguen temprano. 5 rue de Montalembert, 7 o(01-42-22-56-56), Metro:Rue de Bac, 11:30-15:00 y 18:30-00:00 Todos los días. Precio Promedio Cena: €55.
Le Pré Verre: Un popular bistro-à-vins con comida sensacional que cambia diariamente en la pisarra como su ravioli casero de escargot en una reducción de pernod. Mejores noticias: precios muy razonables. 8 Rue Thénard, 5 o, (01-43-54-59-47), Metro: Maubert-Mutualité, 12:00-14:00 y 19:30-22:30 Martes a Sábado. Precio Promedio (Cena): €24. Menú Almuerzo: €12.
L’Tour d’Argent: Con una vista preciosa del Seine, este clásico del haute cuisine Francés ahora es más accesible a la hora del almuerzo con un menú pre-fixe de 65 Euros. Sus postres son de otro mundo. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle, 5 o, (01-43-54-23-31), Metro: Pont Marie o Cardinal-Lemoine, 12:00-13:30 y 19:30-21:00 Miércoles a Domingo. Precio Promedio: €180. Menú Almuerzo: €65.
Pitchi Poi: La ubicación perfecta para un brunch el domingo: una plaza de barrio escondida de aldoquines y árboles sin tránsito. Se recomienda comenzar con los “blinis” con salmón ahumado y crema ácida. 7 Rue Caron, 9 Place Marché Ste-Catherine, 4º (01-42-77-46-15), Metro: St-Paul, 10:30-15:00 y 18:00-22:30 Lunes a Sábado, Brunch Domingo 12:00-16:00. Precio Promedio: €20. Brunch Domingo: €24.
Salón de Té, La Mosquée de Paris: Un patio silencioso con árboles con sala de té árabe, es una parada ideal para tomarse un té de menta o probar algunos dulces árabes. La mesquita es hermosa, cubierta de azulejos verdes y blancos de Algeria. 1 Place du Puits-de-l’Ermite, 5o(01-45-35-97-33), Metro: Censier-Daubenton, 10:00-00:00 todos los días. Precio Promedio: €10. Sólo té y/o dulces: €3-5.
Tricotin: Sus comedores exuden aires de Hong Kong con vitrinas de patos enteros glaseados. El dim sum, platos de fideos, y curries (tailandeses y malayas) son exquisitos. Muy económico. (promedio 15 Euros por persona). 15 av. De Choisy, 13 o (01-45-84-74-44), Metro: Porte de Choisy, 9:00-23:00 todos los días. Precio Promedio: €15.
Marché-Mania
Las ferias libres son los mejores lugares en Paris para tomar el pulso de la escena local y conocer en primera persona que comen los parisinos. Se puede degustar todo y abastecer el refrigerador con snacks y tesoros culinarios. Todos los arrondissements tienen varias ferias durante la semana (mayores información en www.paris.fr).
Marché des Enfants Rouges, 3º, 39 Rue de Bretagne: El Mercado más antiguo de Paris funcionando desde 1615 donde se encuentran una gran variedad de carnes, pescados, quesos, panes y verduras--todo abajo un techo restorado. Martes a Sábado desde las 8:30 a 13:00 y 16:00 a 19:30; Domingo 8:30-14:00.
Marché Monge, 5º, Place Monge: En una plaza rodeada por árboles a una cuadra del Rue Mouffetard, su onda es más relejada y los puestos ofrecen una variedad de ensaladas, especias, miel y otras tentaciones. Miércoles y Viernes 7:00-14:30 y Domingo, 7:00-15:00.
Marché Biologique, 6º, Blvd. Raspail: La feria orgánica al aire libre más conocida en Paris. Cada domingo sus puestos coloridos venden pescados, carnes, verduras, frutas y pasteles exquisitos. Ojo: los precios altos suelen “picar”. Boulevard Raspail entre Cherche-Midi y Rennes, Martes, Viernes y Domingo, 7-14:30.
El Culto del Baguette
El baguette perfecto, junto con el croissant, son las obsesiones y adicciones diarias de todos los Parisinos. En una cuidad llena de boulangeries parece díficil determinar cuáles panaderías tienen los mejores baguettes. Consejo sencillo: busque un baguette con textura crocante que revela una masa lechosa, liviana y masticable adentro con el sabor de leche fresca de campo. Nota: compren un poco de queso y un Cotes de Rhone y bajar al río Seine para un picnic improvisto. No se olviden del destapador.
Maison Kayser: No se asusten por la cola, avanza rápida. Discutiblemente la mejor panaderia en París, los baguettes son perfectos (algo más que mantequilla sería un pecado capital). Si les tientan lo dulce, los croissants de almendra son una relevación. 8 Rue Monge, 5º (01-44-07-01-42), Metro: Place Monge.
Poilâne: Reconocido internacionalmente (su pan ya está en restaurants top Londinenses), esta panadería antigua es pura diversión mirar a sus trabajadores hacer su magia con el horno a leña. 8 rue du Cherche-Midi, 6º (01-45-48-42-59), Metro Sèvres Babylone o St-Suplice, 7:15am-20:15 Lunes a Sábado.
Darse el Gusto: Tiendas de Especialidad
En ninguna parte se puede “regalonear”, gastronómicamente hablando, como en París: un queso cabra madurado con mucho cariño; un espresso perfecto; botellas de aceites y vinagres especiales; helados artesanales; ingredientes exóticos y aromáticos. El concepto de terroir en Francia no sólo aplica al vino--también al queso, las cecinas, etc.
Debauve & Gallais: Antiguamente era una farmacía en los 1800 fabricando chocolate para objetivos medicinales. Hoy sus chocolates están rellenos de té, miel, o crocante. Sus gelatinas de fruta radillan como joyas deliciosas. 30 rue de Sts-Pères, 7o (01-45-48-54-67), Metro: Saint Germain-des-Prés. 9:00-19:00 Lunes a Sábado.
Fromagerie 31: Una nueva tienda de queso con area de degustación donde se puede probar queso maduro con una copa de vino. 64 rue de Seine, 6o (01-43-26-50-31), Metro: Mabillon. 10:00-20:00 Martes a Viernes; 10:30-13:30pm Sábado.
Helados para Todos: Los helados fantásticos de Berthillon o Damman’s con sus sabores distintos, como yogurt Bulgaro, tiramisú, pan de especias, pistachio, lavanda con caramelo, valen el viaje. Berthillon, 31 Rue St-Louis-en-l’Île, 4º (01-43-54-31-61), Metro: St-Paul; Damman’s, 20 Rue du Cardinal-Lemoine, 5º (01-46-33-61-30), Metro: Cardinal-Lemoine.
Izrael: Un casi-souk árabe en Paris ubicado en un espacio enano en el Marais lleno de olores sensuales, este es el reconocido comerciante de especias y productos exóticos. 30 Rue François-Miron, 4 o(01-42-72-66-23), Metro: Hotel de Ville o St-Paul, 9:30 a 13:00 y 14:30 a 19:00 Lunes a Viernes, 9:00-19:00 Sábado.
Julien Caviste: Después de explorar el Marché des Enfants-Rouges, este comerciante del vino emergente apasionado merece una visita para conocer los pequeños productores que ha descubierto. 50 rue Charlot, 3o (01-42-72-00-94) Metro: Filles du Calvaire, 9:30-20:30 Martes a Sábado.
Marie-Anne Cantin: La especialidad es el queso no-pasteurizado y cremoso. Notarios son sus chèvres maduros y beauforts, todos madurados en su propia cava. 12 rue du Champ-de-Mars, 7º (01-45-50-43-94), Metro: Ecole Militare, 8:30-19:30 Lunes a Sábado.
La Dernière Goutte: La vinoteca del barrio Saint Germain, atendido por su dueño norteamericano, Juan Sanchéz. Excelente selección de vinos regionales de productores pequeños. 6 Rue de Bourbon-Château, 6o (01-43-29-11-62), Metro: Saint Germain-des-Prés,11:00-13:30 y 16:00 a 19:30 Lunes a Sábado.
La Grande Epicerie de Paris: Un supermercado de lujo ubicado en la grande tienda, Le Bon Marché. Ofrece un abanico de productos culinarios y un deli gourmet. Abastece su dispensa de riquezas francesas para consumo inmediato o para la vuelta con su selección de mostazas, patés y chocolates. 38 Rue de Sèvres, 7o (01-44-39-80-00), Metro: Sèvres-Babylone, 9:00 a 19:00 Lunes a Sábado.
La Maison du Chocolat: Una pequeña tienda innovadora utilizando granos de cacao de todo el mundo en combinaciones interesantes: cardamomo, ají, fruta fresca, infusiones herbales y vino. Perfecto para regalos. 19 Rue de Sèvres, 6o, (01-45-44-20-40), 10:00-19:00 Lunes a Sábado.
Maison de la Truffe: En un conjunto de tiendas gourmet en el Metro Madeleine, se especializa en trufas negras desde las trufas enteras al aceite. Ideal para regalos, o darse el gusto. 19 Place de Madeleine, 8 o(01-42-65-53-22), Metro: Madeleine, 9:00 a 21:00Lunes a Sábado.
Tang Frères: El mayor supermercado asiático en Paris, en Chinatown, aquí hay hongos secos, condimentos y otros ingredients díficiles-de-encontrar. Es entretenido ver la mercadería y comprender la profunda influencia gastronómica de las antiguas colonias en la Francia de hoy. 48 av. D’Ivry, 13o (01-45-70-80-00). Metro: Porte de Choisy o Porte d’Ivry.
Torréfacteur Verlet: Aromas de café perfumado penetran este local donde el maestro tuesta los granos a perfección. Asegurénse de probar el mejor café de Paris en su salón de té. 256 Rue St-Honoré, 1o (01-42-60-67-39), Metro: Palais Royal, 9:30-19:00 todos los días.
13:10 Posted in FREELANCE FOOD, WINE & TRAVEL ARTICLES | Permalink | Comments (0) | Trackbacks (0) | Email this
More Articles About Liz Caskey Inc.
12:15 Posted in INTERVIEWS | Permalink | Comments (0) | Trackbacks (0) | Email this
Saturday, October 08, 2005
Tudo Delicioso (Revista Mujer, 09-10-05, Edición 1200)
Por Liz Caskey
“Yumm...Que é isso?”, pregunto a la pasada, frenando mi caminata en frente de una barraca, un carrito de snacks. Sale un olor delicioso que no identifico desde un sartén. “É tapioca.” Miro al sartén, calentado por leña, donde adentro tiene lo que parece ser una crepa hecha de pequeños gránulos blancos (la tapioca) que se van “pegando” con el calor. Le agrega coco fresco rallado y queso de coalho (queso fresco local), la dobla a la mitad como si fuera una quesadilla y la pasa a una señora esperando. No contengo mis ganas y exclamo, “Quero provar também!” Llega caliente, crocante afuera pero suave dentro con el queso derritido y levemente dulce por la carne del coco rallado. Marta, la cocinera, me cuenta que es un lanche típico de Pernambuco, el nordeste paradisiáco de Brasil. Estoy en Olinda, la ciudad hermana colonial de Recife, explorando--quiero ver qué comen aquí.
Olinda es amor a primera vista: cerros verdes con tejas rojas de sus casas coloniales, iglesias barrocas portuguesas, todo con un mar verde-turquesa de fondo. El tiempo se ha detenido aquí; es otra época. Vago sus calles hechizada por su belleza, su gente encantadora de piel multicolorida y ver la vida diaria pasar a un ritmo lento y muy placentero. En cada esquina, me encuentro con alguien vendiendo cositas ricas para comer: agua de coco helado, perfecto para el calor que hace; helados artesanales de frutas nativas como açerola; dulces como bolo de rolo, la versión brasilera de brazo de reina relleno de goiaba; frutas frescas aromáticas del tamaño de una bola de fútbol como mango y papaya; acarajé, un pequeño sándwich baiano hecho de masa de porotos y relleno con camarones secos, salsa de maní y aceite de malagueta, un ají súper picante; y las divinas castañas de cajú. No podía creer cuánta oferta había de castaña de cajú en todos lados. Las venden como el maní en Chile—en pequeños paquetes por un real o kilos por poco más. Todo lo que pruebo tiene un sabor intenso; es como la naturaleza infunde inparable toda su pasión en las frutas de su tierra.
Al rato, ya veo que no va a ser necesario almorzar hoy, lo estoy pasando demasiado bien picoteando en las calles de Olinda y conociendo su idiosincrasia por el paladar. Sí, tudo é delicioso en Recife y Olinda.
Para más información: www.olinda.pe.gov.br
01:25 Posted in MUJER MAGAZINE-La Tercera Newspaper (Chile) | Permalink | Comments (0) | Trackbacks (0) | Email this
Monday, October 03, 2005
Paris por Primera vez (Revista Placeres, Sept/Oct 2005, Edición 6)
Estoy mirando por la ventana del tren al negro profundo cuando mi oído comienza a sentir un hormigueo y luego detona por la presión. Con un sensación leve de estar en un vacío, P-U-M, salimos del Chunnel. El sol aparece con toda su fuerza por primera vez en varios días (ingrediente apetecido en Londres). Me acomodo en mi asiento y sonrío. Por fin estoy en el continente europeo, por primera vez en Francia. El paisaje de cerros verdes y suaves está pimientado por esporádicas villas que parecen adormecidas, casas de techos inclinados, altos, rojos e iglesias de piedras grises. Gradualmente el campo se diluye hacia un panorama urbano y sin más ni más, estamos en la Gare du Nord. “Bienvenue a Paris”, me dice el conductor. Con mi francés vergonzoso, lo único que se me ocurre responder es, “Merci Beaucoup”, una frase que desgastaré durante las próximas dos semanas.
Técnicamente hablando, esta es mi primera vez en Paris, aunque sea corta. Estoy en tránsito, una hora en el laberinto profundo del metro de la ciudad, una verdadera sauna en el verano, moviéndome de una estación interregional a otra, en camino a Bordeaux. Viajo Paris a través de sus paradas del metro: Les Halles, Chatelet, St. Michel, mentalmente imaginando como la ciudad debe verse al nivel de la calle. La mezcla étnica de la gente definitivamente es una sinopsis de su diversidad, barullo y actividad frenética. Sin embargo, Paris tendrá que esperar por ahora: es mi última parada en mi gira por Europa. Volveré la próxima semana.
Paris puede ser abrumador, decidí entonces deshacerme de mi guía de la ciudad (menos la sección sobre restaurantes) y usar sólo un mapa. Mi instinto de guata era que el Paris verdadero se vivía en sus calles, cafés, tiendas, mercados, edificios, mezquitas/iglesias y por supuesto en contacto con su gente. Podía sentir el peso histórico de la ciudad con su plétora de museos y monumentos, pero sobre todo, quería experimentar la vida cotidiana parisina. Durante una semana, recorrí sus calles en un trance. Caminé todos los arrondissements centrales además de algunos más lejanos con mis amigos locales (como Belleville para comida china auténtica). Yo solía seguir una senda gastronómica combinado con visitas a lugares de interés como Le Fab Four : Notre Dame, Sacré Coeur, Arc de Triomphe, la Torre Eiffel. Vagaba por mercados locales orgánicos (se puede mirar pero no tocar, precios altísimos), restaurantes y picadas étnicas, tiendas de queso, panaderías y pastelerías, chocolaterías, pasillos de especias exóticas, salas de té, y claro, el espresso parisino tomado en uno del millón de cafés en la ciudad (tienes que amar una ciudad donde “tomar café” se eleva a un deporte, con las sillas y mesas alineadas en filas para una vista sin obstáculo).
Marais, mi centro de operaciones para explorar Paris, tenía una vibra muy familiar que me recordaba del Village en Nueva York, por su comunidad gay y judía, y el sentido de “barrio”. Encontré placeres simples ahí, comprar bagels frescos en la panadería judía para el desayuno; o cenar unos crepes livianos con una copa de Rosé seco en el Place Saint Catherine (una joya parisina, algo difícil de encontrar, cerca del Places des Vosges). El barrio latino me cautivó con su mezquita árabe construida de azulejos verdes de Algeria. Me detuve en el patio para tomar un té de menta fresca con dulces tunisianos, una especialidad de los inmigrantes norteafricanos. En Saint Germain y la Isla Saint Louis me encanté con sus vitrinas preciosas. Parecían postales de aceites, vinagres, helados, chocolates, quesos, vinos, foie gras, juguetes “design”, quesos, joyas. Cada tarde, paraba en algún café bien ubicado (en la esquina) para mirar la gente. Observaba a los parisinos tomar profundas bocanadas de sus cigarros y luego un sorbo de café mientras leían el diario. Me di cuenta que Paris es una ciudad que no se puede visitar ni entender en una sola visita—de hecho, conocerla bien podría demorar una vida entera, o en mi caso, muchos viajes y aprender algo de francés para lograr explorar al menos en su superficie.
Es mi última noche en Paris ahora y estoy posada en el reborde del Puente de Sully, sola, en el extremo este de la Isla Saint Louis. Me he invitado a un barquillo delicioso de helado de lavanda y crocante de miel. Es perfumado, dulce y sensual como la noche de verano. Mi reloj lee las 21:30 pero apenas es atardecer. La ciudad está envuelta en una luz dorada que de a poco convierte las fachadas blancas en un tono de violeta-azulado. Ahí en el Puente, inspiro mis alrededores hermosos; siento que estoy (casi) en una pintura de Renoir en este momento. ¿Cómo puede ser una ciudad tan bella, estilizada y deliciosa? Paris me ha seducido. Estoy enamorada. Mañana un avión me devolverá a la realidad, pero por hora, saboreo mi helado, dejando el barquillo crocante para el último bocado. Cuando termino, la noche ha descendido y la cuidad centellea. Una mirada más antes de irme a empacar. Sí, definitivamente guardé lo mejor para el último bocado.
22:40 Posted in PLACERES MAGAZINE (Chile) | Permalink | Comments (0) | Trackbacks (0) | Email this
Beyond the Vines: Bordeaux Emerges (LAN Airlines-IN Magazine: October 2005)
By Liz Caskey
Most visitors come to tour Bordeaux’s acclaimed Appellations and Chateaux, although the city offers much more. Its neoclassical architecture has recently gotten a facelift giving it renewed 18th-century grandeur; a brand-new, modern tram system has revamped city transportation; the city boasts excellent museums, lively nightlife and restaurants, and beaches and medieval towns close by. Here is the quick guide to checking out the local scoop:
THE CITY
Housed in two wings of the Hotel de Ville built in the 1770s with an outstanding collection of 15th to the 20th century works. Wed. through Sunday, 11am-6pm. Admission: 4.50 Euros.
Arranges walking tours of Old Bordeaux in English and French, in addition to visits to wineries and other tourist points.
A neighborhood institution, this restaurant has been a local favorite for over two decades. The menu has adjusted with the times and continues to offer very modern dishes through a fusion of styles emphasizing local ingredients like the foie gras made with Lillet (an alcoholic drink in the region); or roasted sea bass on pulverized black olives.
By a big fireplace, Jean-Pierre Xiradakis roasts magnificent meats with deep flavors, especially duck and chicken, his specialties. His foie gras and cèpes, preserved in-house, are typical of Southwest France.
This modern bistro is a star: up-to-date French cuisine with classic touches, bright lime green and tangerine orange décor. Yves Gravelier, who trained with Freddy Girardet, does magic with pigeon, and his 12-hour melt-your-mouth lamb with asparagus are a marvel.
AROUND BORDEAUX
Only 35 kilometers northeast of Bordeaux, Saint-Émilion is the oldest wine region of Bordeaux with a historic vineyard landscape and a quaint medieval town situated on two limestone hills that look out over the Dordogne River valley. It is also a quaffer’s delight, perfect for meandering its charming cobblestone streets and plazas, shopping at the liver-testing 50-odd wine shops, or snacking on its famous macaroons. Dine at the locals’ favorite, L’Envers du Décor, for regional specialties and excellent duck. Stay for sunset when the town takes on a luscious golden hue, or take the road less traveled back to Bordeaux; winding country roads through quintessential French villages, ruins, and of course, vineyards.
L’Envers du Décor, 5 Rue de Clocher, Saint-Émilion, (33-5) 57.74.48.31
www.saint-emilion-tourism.com
Locals head for nearby Arcachon, a popular fin-de-siècle resort on a tidal bay; or the chic Cap Ferret, a speedy hop by ferry. Boats run around the lagoon itself, taking in the massive oyster beds and the Ilhe aux Oiseaux, a Robinson Crusoe-esque island. Visit the impressive sand dunes such as the Dune de Pyla on the wild Atlantic ocean; and try the local delicacy: oysters from Gujan Mestras.
www.lege-capferret.com
With the backdrop of the Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte vineyards, this swish four-star charmê hotel has combined old Bordeaux with modern luxury in an estate setting. Dine in one of their outstanding restaurants, indulge yourself with one their wine spa treatments, visit the vineyards with a cellar tasting, or quite simply, sit back, relax, and be pampered.
www.sources-caudalie.com
Surrounded by idyllic French countryside, just a few minutes outside Bordeaux in Bouliac, is the Hauterive Saint James, a classic French country hotel with a twist. French architect Jean Nouvel built the St. James in steel and glass, focusing on cutting-edge design and zen-inflected minimalist spaces, all with a view from its hilltop; including the sleek black swimming pool. The cuisine also is one of the main attractions here; Chef Michel Porto’s gourmet restaurant with its extensive wine list attracts epicures and wine lovers from all over.
www.saintjames-bouliac.com
13:10 Posted in FREELANCE FOOD, WINE & TRAVEL ARTICLES | Permalink | Comments (0) | Trackbacks (0) | Email this
My So-Called Career: How Did I End Up Here?
My So-Called Career: How did I end up here?
By Liz Caskey
“En cinco, cuatro, tres, dos, uno, vamos con Liz!”. The lights flash on and the cameras swivel around to lock their focus on me in the studio kitchen. Here we go. We are broadcasting live; cooking for all of Chile for the next five to ten minutes. In those brief moments, I become a magician in the kitchen using my bag of tricks to explain the ingredients, preparation techniques, flavor combinations, and presentation tips, while trying to not lose a beat with the fast-paced chit chat of the hosts. Did I mention this is all in Spanish? It all happens so fast that I feel like I am in some veritable cooking time warp making the jump to light speed. Boom, I plate the recipe, one final zoom-in, and the camera cuts to commercials. I can breathe now. Welcome to my weekly cooking segment on one of Chile’s national morning shows.
Most of what I refer to as my career today, that is, being the owner of Liz Caskey, Inc., a culinary and wine tour business; a food and wine writer; a Sommelier school student; and a TV chef on Chilean national television, is a far cry from any previous job description I may have had—or even considered applying for. Tack on the fact that I am doing this all in Chile, the farthest possible end of the American continent, and it seems fairly understandable that I frequently get asked, “How (on earth) did you end up there?”
My life seemed to be following a relatively traditional career path, investment banking in New York, for my first year out of school. At the beginning, my future in the industry seemed bright enough that I was doing mini-calculations of when I could apply for my MBA. However, the honeymoon quickly evaporated with the never-ending 80-hour work weeks and high travel lifestyle. I was tired, bored, and restless. I had even lost my desire to cook (coupled with a miniscule Manhattan apartment kitchen), my lifetime hobby and passion since birth. On a red-eye flight back to New York from Mexico City, after a particularly grueling business trip, I realized that I had to do something immediately or risk watching my life pass by from the 38th floor of my bank’s office building. So I resigned. I needed to rethink my general direction. But destiny ironically intervened several weeks later when a similar banking job offer turned up in my e-mail in-box. However, this time the position was based in Santiago, Chile. I accepted it. Not because of the job itself, but because I subconsciously knew that this was my big chance to change my life.
My arrival in Santiago is not as arbitrary as it may sound. I did know what I was getting into before I got on the plane this time. I had spent my junior year abroad in Santiago and fallen in love with it: the Spanish, the stunning geography, the laid-back lifestyle, the Mediterranean climate, the general seductive nature of all of South America. Santiago is one of South America’s most sophisticated and modern cities, a thriving metropolis home to 5 million people with spectacular location at the foot of the snowcapped Andes. So back in Chile after a 3-year hiatus, I could hardly believe how things had changed.
The infrastructure was rapidly modernizing; the economy was booming; and by my measure of things, there was a tangible food scene. At first, I was skeptical because the memories of my homesickness issues during my year abroad, all food-related, still lingered. That year of no authentic Thai, Chinese, Italian, Indian, and Mexican restaurants or ingredients, and Nescafé instant coffee (what Chileans consider “coffee”), left me constantly awaiting culinary care packages filled with dark chocolate, exotic spices, mole, and my other food staples. Now, confronted with a cornucopia of new restaurants, chichi supermarkets, ethnic stores, and invitations to events, I plunged stomach-first into this new gastronomic vision of Santiago.
While some things had significantly improved, I still found the food at many events and restaurants to be lackluster. One thing though was grabbing my attention: the ingredients. They were, in a word, glorious. Fresh native fish and shellfish brought in every morning from the Pacific Coast; a Technicolor of seasonal vegetables and fruits at my local farmers market; herbaceous, green local extra-virgin olive oils; spicy, artesian cold-smoked chorizo; soft cow’s milk cheeses from the southern lakes region of Chile; and finally, new exotic food shops, from Asian to Middle Eastern, opened by newly arrived immigrants offering those hard-to-find spices and condiments.
My love of cooking rapidly returned. Every free weekend, I followed my nose to the market and later dug my hands into the prizes I took home. At first I cooked dinners for my friends, but the dinners soon became parties, and the parties led to recommendations for some informal (but paid) catering. After several months of this, I quit my day job and started my own catering business. Catering was my formal “path” into the food business, but I quickly saw that the Chilean wine industry and tourism were charging full force ahead. I sensed that there were a lot opportunities to be created, all that was needed was an entrepreneurial spark and a lot of gumption. With my catering business faring well, I set out on a concept that I thought could work in Chile: culinary tourism.
The idea for a culinary tour in Santiago was born when my mother came to visit me in the fall after moving back to Chile. I had recently moved downtown to a hip loft in a remodeled turn-of-the-century building in Barrio Brazil/Yungay, a trendy neighborhood going through gentrification. It was a very different area of the city; in fact, at times I wasn’t sure I was in Santiago. I wandered its labyrinth of tiny, cobblestone streets and plazas, admiring the European facades dating back a century; the quaint almacenes on the every corner; the daily open-air farmers markets in its streets; the stylish new cafés melding with the old schoperías (beer halls); and church bells always ringing. There was an air of another époque. Daily life was played out in the streets. Generations of neighbors knew each other. I was later told, by an older Chilean friend, that this is what is known as vida de barrio (neighborhood life), and Barrio Brazil is one of the few areas of the city that has preserved this unique flavor. Much of Santiago seems to be enamored with importing American-style suburbia.
During my mother’s visit, I showed her around the neighborhood as I normally went about my daily business: shopping in the farmers market, dropping off laundry with Señora Mónica, buying fresh cheese from the cheese shop, taking the metro into the civic center to pay bills, etc. One evening, after shopping for produce in morning and preparing a delicious dinner together, with a glass of wine in hand, she said, “Honey, I think this would be a really interesting culinary tour for visitors to Santiago. They can see the neighborhood, shop at the market with you, and prepare a meal back with the ingredients back at your loft. You know, your local take on Santiago.” My mind was already spinning with ideas. I had done a tour like this in Oaxaca, Mexico the year before, and it was one of the highlights of my trip there. This was the angle I had been looking for to get the culinary tour idea off the ground.
And the culinary tour took off. The final product did not stray too far from the original idea. With a lot of hard work, marketing, and PR, it has now become a unique and highly-regarded product in the food and tourism industries in both Santiago and all of Chile. Most importantly, it created the foundation for my current business: food and wine tours outside of Santiago in different wine valleys and Mendoza, Argentina. On a larger scale, it finally helped me to define the general direction of my life and career. Loving what I do has fundamentally changed my outlook on life. I found a path that has let me explore my passions and continually expand myself professionally and personally like I never had imagined. My success has not been entirely without heartaches or setbacks; I have definitely had my fair share. However, the most important lesson I have learned is that to achieve great success and happiness that risk is almost always inherent. I mean really, what did I have to loose?
Liz Caskey C’99 is the owner of Liz Caskey, Inc., a company specializing in food and wine tours in South America, in addition to being a food and wine writer, sommelier, and TV chef. She currently resides in Santiago, Chile. For more information, www.lizcaskey.com and check out her blog at http://lizcaskey.blogspirit.com.
01:25 Posted in RAMBLINGS | Permalink | Comments (0) | Trackbacks (0) | Email this
Santiago Restaurant Recommendations, Part II (English)
Santiago Restaurant Recommendations, Part II (English)
Just a Nibble...
De la Ostia
Tío, as the Spanish say, this is the perfect place for a drink and light pick-at dinner any day of the week. The fare is typical Spanish serving up yummy tapas and pinxos like fried calamari, salt cod croquettes, seared octopus over potatoes. The famous pinxo de la ostia is delicious, made with morcilla, blood sausage (don’t be put off by it, it is sweet and very tasty), roasted red pepper and scallops. Excellent selection of wines by the glass: try the Carmen Viduare; or their cocktails, if you choose to go this route, are decent. I personally fall for the spicy Bloody Marys or when in doubt, vodka tonic is always a safe bet.
Orrego Luco 065, Providencia, 335-1422
Olio Santo
Located in the up-and-coming bar area around Manuel Montt and Avda. Providencia, this cozy little Italian tapas bar has one of the most rocking happy hours in Santiago, 2x1 until 9pm. Great vodka martinis and mojitos (use precaution as they are loaded) and little bites like eggplant parmigiana, pizzas, and different types of bruschetta. Perfect location a corner coming out of the Manual Montt metro.
Providencia 1355, Providencia, 235-3956
Around-the-World, Around-the-World
Akarana
New Zealand native Dell Taylor pulls off an impressive show here with Pan-international cuisine, reflecting the mixture of cooking styles in her native country. From Indian-style lamb curry to Asian-accented starters to homemade sweet potato gnocchi, the food is great, table and customer service is way above par, and the wine list is easy to navigate: each wine is described to a T, making selection a breeze. The restaurant also has a couple added bonuses: it is less than a block from the Ritz-Carlton for those staying there; is open on Sunday and has “gringo” hours (read: you can eat early here); and for a light dinner, gives the option of appetizer or entrée portions.
Reyes Lavalle 3310, Las Condes, 231-9667
Le Flaubert
This charming little bistro is a tiny piece of France in Chile. Located in a beautiful old home typical of the Providencia area, its creaky wood floors, 1940s jazz, and shady terrace are the perfect setting to try its lovely homemade paté, duck confit or some of their daily specials like roasted sea bass. In the entrance, there is a “goody” shop to stock up on all the gourmet essentials like tea, jams and preserves, honey, and flavored oils.
Orrego Luco 125. F: 231-9424
Boca Bistro
One of the hipsters in the Orrego Luco restaurant crowd, Boca is a great lunch rendezvous. Its front room is on the dark side but charming with the low lighting; or if you prefer al fresco, it has a semi-enclosed patio in the back. Lunch time menus are a good value for money (3.500 pesos for a main course with a glass of wine) and satisfying: they follow the K.I.S.S. rule (keep it simple stupid) by going with home cooking in cool environs. Service can be pokey at times so don’t go in a rush. Lingering social or business lunches in the vicinity are perfect.
Orrego Luco 040, Providencia, 333-3054
Frederick’s
The newest darling in the downtown area, a mere block from La Moneda, the government palace, Frederick’s is a modern bistro serving up gringo fare (it should be as the owner is English). If souped-up hamburgers and fries, shrimp risotto, seared salmon over couscous, Chicken Caesar salad, and other delectable dishes are your thing, then this is a good haunt for lunch. The only negative comment would be that service tends to be slow. On different occasions a full lunch has taken over 1.5 hours so my suggestion is not to go with a tight schedule—it could mean chaos. Reservations are recommended since many Ministries are in the vicinity. You never know, you could rub elbows with the President here!
Almirante Gotuzzo 102, Santiago Centro, 699-8399
Tiramisú
Great pizzas. Tiramisú does have pasta, salads, and other dishes but I have never tried them. I cannot get past the pizzas: the thin, crispy pizza with a light, tangy tomato sauce, creamy mozzarella and thinly, salty-sweet prosciutto with bitter, refreshing, crunchy arugula. Make a reservation, get there early, or order out. This place is packed every day at lunch and dinner—with reason.
Isidora Goyenechea 3141, Las Condes, 335-5135
El Chalán
Peruvian food in Chile is what Mexican food is in California: authentic and exquisite. Peruvian immigrants are heating up Chilean palates with their dynamite use of chilies, spices, potatoes, grains, and complex flavors. There are a multitude of Peruvian restaurants here in Santiago: Barandiarán, El Otro Sitio, El Vagón, Costa Nazca, Sarita Colonia (back in the day) to name a few. I have eaten at all of these on several occasions and have found that they are not as good as El Chalán. El Chalán is for locals in the know and those serious about Peruvian food. Start with the pisco sours (don’t drink too fast or you WILL get hammered). Then try a delicious ceviche, either corvina (sea bass) or mixed seafood; or tiradito which is sashimi-quality sea bass flattened like carpaccio and dosed with chilies, key lime juice and cilantro. The fish is impeccably fresh. Other recommended dishes: fried calamari, seco de cordero (slow-cooked lamb), ají de gallina (shredded chicken in creamy walnut-turmeric sauce), and prawn dishes. Everything is delicious, blow caution to the wind and be adventurous.
Manuel Montt 1616, Providencia, 204-0989
Majestic
We all have ethnic food hankerings and this is where we go when we crave Indian food in Santiago. First thing, very important: make a reservation, and not 2 hours before or you won’t get a table. This is a tiny little gem of a restaurant in an unassuming Best Western hotel (called the Hotel Majestic fittingly) in the downtown area. The restaurant smells like heaven: the spices wafting in the air make your gastric juices churn upon entering. The menu may look like a medium-length novel but try not to get bogged down: focus on what meat (or vegetable) you are in the mood for. Majestic is best enjoyed with a group where each person orders a different curry and shares. Save room for dessert: the pistachio kulfi is unreal. A total orgasm for your palate.
Santo Domingo 1526, Santiago Centro, 695-8366
Rivoli
Rivoli is the first and the last word on fresh pasta in Santiago in every imaginable way. The sauces are clean-tasting and sublime: the tomatoes and herbs are from their own organic garden; they make their own fresh mozzarella; they use premium olive oil—what more could you want? You can definitely tell there is an Italian in the kitchen working his magic.
Nueva de Lyon 77, Providencia, 231-7969
The Buzzzz....
Suco
In need of a vitamin or sugar rush—or even a cure for a hangover? Head for Suco. This super cool, smoothie, juice and gourmet sandwich bar in El Bosque area of the city is a delicious and great value for money. Try their tantalizing juices like Carrot-Orange; or their icy smoothies like Berry Juvenator; or when your liver is down on life after a big night, the Morning After blends orange, papaya, and cucumber juices to help you heal. Stop in for lunch to try their exquisite homemade soups and gourmet sandwiches—and if calories aren’t an issue, the tempting baked goods--owner Miriam Harrison’s personal specialty.
Roger de Flor 2971, Las Condes, 475-4092
The Coffee Club
Rich, aromatic coffees from Guatemala, Costa Rica, Indonesia and other faraway corners of the world are brewed up here in a myriad of coffee drinks, all striking the perfect balance. Take some of the bean wonders home with you and enjoy the sultry aromas at breakfast, or any time of the day.
Avda. 11 de Septiembre 1955, Providencia, 223-1910
Tavelli (Drugstore)
The “punto de encuentro”, meeting point, in Providencia for a power coffee or short meeting, Tavelli is in the middle of the action in the cool Drugstore—full of young clothing designers, jewelry and shoe stores, bookshops and even some yummy food stuffs (like the Arab food store out the back). The cortados, or Chilean cappuccinos, are decent, the service is quick, and people-watching location is optimum.
Andres de Fuenzalida 36, Providencia, 234-3408
Starbucks
Starbucks has invaded Chile and produced multiple offspring in a very short time in strategic business and mall locations. It is the same as ever other Starbucks in every other part of the world. That being said, if you are hard up for a caffeine fix or needing a soy latte badly, it is recommendable.
San Sebastián 2946 (Corner of Isidora Goyenechea), 233-0933; other locations
Café Haiti
Chicks in tube dresses, in high heels and serving coffee from an elevated counter--Is this coffee erotica? No, it is “Coffee with Legs”, an odd Santiago institution where many people (mostly men) go for their daily java and some eye candy. Café Haiti is the most “tranquilo” of this style of risqué coffee shops, so even if the coffee is mediocre (which it is), it is worth a visit just to observe this Santiago phenomenon.
Various locations in downtown area around Plaza de Armas
01:10 Posted in RESTAURANT RECS & REVIEWS | Permalink | Comments (0) | Trackbacks (0) | Email this