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Sunday, November 06, 2005
Buenos Aires Restaurant Recommendations
Buenos Aires Restaurant Recommendations
By Liz Caskey
Ahhhh, Buenos Aires, or “BA” as we call it here in South America. Imagine the elegance of Europe, the effervescence of New York, and a profoundly Latin soul all meshing seamlessly into one city. Picture wide tree-lined boulevards lined with cafés and restaurant terraces, turn-of-the-century European architecture that could be found in Paris or Madrid, while porteños, residents of Buenos Aires, engage in passionate debates or simply sip their rich espresso, take a drag off their cigarette, and read the paper. The city is a mirror of its intensely European roots, mostly Italian and Spanish, which is even reflected in their Spanish accent with an Italian lilt and, of course, their impeccable style. There are no major visual anchors here like the Christ statue in Rio—it is utterly urban, a Mecca of fashion, art, theater, and dining. However Buenos Aires’ true charm, like its beloved tango, is the game of seduction it plays; its mesmerizing effect on residents and visitors alike. The real Buenos Aires is a city of authentic neighborhoods all with their own unique flavor: La Boca, a working class Italian district with the best parrillada in town only frequented by locals or bold tourists; the downtown area with its majestic government and civic buildings such as the “pink” government Palace; chasing the arts scene in the Corrientes district with opera in the Teatro Colón, a play at one of the numerous theaters on Avenida Corrientes, or perusing the thousands of tiny bookstores in the area; flourishing Chinatown in Belgrano with its Asian markets and Buddhist temples, a sign of the new wave of immigration bracing Argentina; Old World elegance and wealth in Recoleta where even the defunct live in mansions in the Recoleta cemetery; Palermo Viejo, once middle class, this classic Buenos Aires’ neighborhood has turned trendy with designer stores, gourmet restaurants, all done in flawless taste, while still maintaining their spirit of an époque gone by; tranquil Tigre and Olivos on the river delta north of the city accessible by urban rail, where residents lunch on the weekends, shop its open air market, and take a walk along the Rio de la Plata shores. As one of the great cosmopolitan cities of the world, Buenos Aires is city of precious jewels constantly waiting to be found—and yes, they are food and wine obsessed. Buen provecho. Here are my food picks to eat up BA—and some other recs too.
HIT, NOT TO MISS
It would be a crime to come the whole way to Buenos Aires and not eat at one of these swanky places. Ambience varies from chichi to funky, but one thing is constant: good food and cool vibes.
Casa Cruz
This is the city’s latest culinary darling, and an impressive one indeed. Juan Santa Cruz and German Martitegui (chef of Olsen) join together to offer glitz and gastronomy in Palermo Viejo. First clue the place is swish: a shiny brass door (no sign of course). The place has tables of different sizes and plush red velvet booths. It is hush and posh all at the same time. The wine cellar, a see-through version in front of the kitchen in an “air-conditioned glass box”, is impressive. We stuck with Chandon Extra Brut the whole night as we jumped all over the wine-food pairing map. Not to be missed, the fresh foie gras mousse with fresh figs and hazelnuts; Patagonian lamb fillet poached in olive oil; or Smoked Ahi tuna with avocado cream. Everything was well thought out, delicious, and yes, there is a celeb scene. We were ecstatic when we saw Charly Alberti (the drummer of famed 80s-90s band, Soda Stereo) sitting two tables over. Make reservations--and dress cool.
Uriarte 1658, Palmero Viejo (4833/1113) www.casa-cruz.com
Sucre
This is one THE PLACES to eat in BA (Casa Cruz is my other pick). With its neo-industrial design, the wine cellar is staged in the middle of the restaurant and to get to the bathroom you must cross the catwalk across the rainbow-colored bar (bottles lit up with lights). The modern Argentine cuisine, under the watchful eye of Fernando Trocca, is served from the open-kitchen in the front. The wine list is phenomenonal offering top bottles from Argentina to Chile to Bordeaux. Make friends with the Sommelier and he will give you a tour of the wine “bunker”, and help you pick out the perfect bottle. Essential to make reservations for dinner.
Sucre 676, b/t Figueroa Alcorta and Castañeda, Belgrano (4782/9082). Open noon-5pm, 8pm-1am daily.
Thymus
A foodie’s dream and journey into an unforgettable evening of food in romantic surroundings. Chef Fernando Mayoral, trained in France with Michel Bras, creates deep tasting, layered dishes fusing fresh ingredients (like the herbs from his rooftop herb garden) with exotic techniques and flavors. The house/studio/restaurant is decorated with sculptures by Martín Vergara. Elgourmet.com, the equivalent of the Food Network in Argentina, rates this as the best restaurant in the city. The tasting menu is an event not to be missed.
Lerma 525, b/t Acevedo and Malabia, Villa Crespo (4772/1936), Open 8:30pm-12:30am Tue-Sat.
Sifones y Dragones
This is like a garage or an artist’s studio that has been outfitted with a decent (but rudimentary kitchen), tables, and some funky dishware. First tip: make a reservation. It is one of the most popular joints in BA right now and has few tables. It is like going to dinner at your artist friend’s house. The owners, couple Mariana and Favio, serve up made-on-the-spot dishes (menu changes daily). It is recommendable to bring your own wine and pay the corkage (only 8 pesos) as their wine list was not overly impressive or correctly stored. It is a funky, fun eating experience. Advisable to go in taxi.
Ciudad de la Paz 174, and Santos Dumont, Colegiales (15 4413/9871). Open 9pm-2am Tue-Sat.
PARTY ALL NIGHT LONG
Argentines can stay out until the sun comes up—so why not join them? Tip: take a nap from 8-11pm, get a light bite to eat and hit the bars by midnight. If you are ambitious, go have dinner first and then go out for a drink. Double espresso with dessert is highly recommended to ward off the effects of the wine.
Olsen
German Martitegui scored big with Olsen. Opened in 2001, it soon became BA’s IT restaurant with a beautifully manicured green lawn, lofted Scandinavian design made with blonde wood. After four years, it is still packed all the time. The food is Nordic and the best bet is the infused vodkas paired with Swedish-inspired tapas. Their vodka martinis too are decadent—you can choose from many top labels such as Grey Goose (for a price). They also do Sunday brunch. Holy hangover?
Gorriti 5870, b/t Carranza and Ravignani, Palermo Viejo (4776/7677). Open noon-1:30am Tue-Sat; from 10am Sun.
Milión
Milión ROCKS. I love this bar. It is epitome of Buenos Aires hipness with great cocktails, cool surroundings, and cute bartenders that are chatty. Housed in an 80 year-old French-style mansion, the place was painstakingly restored and reborn in 1999 as Milión—a stylish bar and restaurant. Frequented by the young and the cool, it is hip without being pretentious; funky without being over the top; kickin’ while maintaining a chill vibe. The bar is upstairs as are tables if you want to dine. You can also sip and nibble in their beautiful candlelit garden. Personally though, I think the action is at the bar. Do not miss this place!
Paraná 1048, b/t Marcelo T de Alvear and Santa Fé (4815/9925). Open noon-2am Mon-Wed; noon-3am Thus; noon-4am Fri; 7:30pm-4am Sat; 8pm-2am Sun.
Gran Bar Danzón
Oh-la-la. That is the impression that Danzón gives as you crawl up the candlelit, incense-flooded stairwell. At the top, a flirty, ultra-modern design houses one of BA’s best wine bars, the sister of bistros Sucre and Bar Uriarte. Weeknights get packed in the bar with Happy Hour or Jazz night but you can find refuge in the tables—and their delicious food. You can find some inspiring finds in the “Wine Bible”, Danzón’s 200-bottle wine list, available by the bottle or the glass. It is advisable to make friends with the sommelier (who was Leandro when I was there). He leaned us towards some astounding whites from Doña Paula and a boutique winery, Alto Las Hormigas, for a great Malbec. To accompany your wine orgasm, you can munch on Latin Pan-American cuisine such as duck confit-mango rice paper roll or excellent sushi.
Libertad 1161, between Santa Fe and Arenales, Recoleta (4811/1108). Subte D, Tribunales. Open from 7pm, Mon-Fri, from 8pm Sat, Sun.
Dadá
With a screaming cherry red facade, Dadá offers modern bistro fare at decent prices in a funky surroundings: Mondrian-esque glass and a mosaic bar. The place is small and gives off vibes of a post-work drinking hole with good food more than an eating spot. We had lunch here, which was outstanding—arugula gnocchi and capresse salad. They are proponents of small wineries so try a glass of whatever they are pouring. Drinks in the evening are also fun.
San Martín 941, b/t Marcelo T de Alvear and Paraguay (4314/4787). Subte C San Martín. Open noon-2am Mon-Sat
Mundo Bizarro
Mundo Bizarro falls somewhere between a punk and underground bar with slightly kitsch décor. The vibe is totally different (very alternative) than other bars in BA. The place gets packed so get there early to steal a leather booth and camp out, or install yourself at the bar to make friends with the bartender. A DJ spins tunes from punk to house or even jazz.
Guatemala 4802, and Borges (4773/1967). Open 8pm-3am Mon-Wed; 8pm-4am Thur; 8pm-5am Fri, Sat; 8pm-3am Sun.
Central
Chi chi. Suave. Slick. This sophisticated lounge, long and narrow with lots of concrete, beautiful people as decoration, and an open-view kitchen is a pioneer in Palermo Viejo. Chef Rodrigo Tosso serves up unconfused fusion cuisine with yummy bites like super crisp yucca chips. You can chill on the white leather couches with a martini and flickering candles at night (not recommendable if you want to eat, the high chairs are more comfortable), or for a long lunch, their magazine rack has lots of good reads. Make sure to check out the high design bathrooms.
Costa Rica 5644, b/t Fitz Roy and Bonpland, Palermo Viejo (4776/7374). Open 12:30pm-2am Mon-Fri; 10:30am-3am Sat-Sun.
Omm
The owners of Central strut their stuff again with a minimalist chic bar made of chrome. All white is the theme here (with candles at night) and great service. Mojitos rule as do the tasty tapas. It is a great place to start or end a bar tour in Palermo Viejo.
Honduras 5656, b/t Fitz Roy and Bonpland, Palermo Viejo (4774/4224). Open from 6pm Mon; from 11:30am Tue-Sun.
Supersoul
Yo!! The 70s are in here with disco balls, trippy colors, and a DJ spinning groovy tunes to get you moving. Next door to its sister, the red Soul Café, have a drink at the tangerine-inspired bar. Check for music listings—they have a flow of DJs.
Báez 252, b/t Arévalo and Arguibel, Las Cañitas (4776/3905). Open from 6pm Mon-Fri, Sun; from 7pm Sat.
Voodoo Lounge
Not exactly my personal bag but since it is down the street from Supersoul it is worth mentioning. It has a groovy look to it and does spin good electronic music and cocktails. Crowd can be aloof but it could make a good stop on a bar tour.
Báez 340, b/t Arévalo and Chenaut, Las Cañitas (4772/2453). Open from 9pm Wed-Sat.
La Farmacia
Funky, cute little bar that used to be an old pharmacy and still adorned with all the medicine bottles. Space is tight so cop a squat where you can find one and order a drink or glass of wine. Good food if the munchies attack.
Bolívar 898, and Estados Unidos, San Telmo. (4300/6151). Open 9am-1:30am Tue-Thur; 9am-2:30am Sat-Sun.
Lomo
This hip multi-space restaurant joins art, music, good drinks, and lots of meat. In fact, lomo in Spanish means fillet, or “hot bod”, if you are speaking the local slang. They have a beautiful zen-like terrace, great for a drink under the stars even if you decide to skip dinner. For us gals, word of warning—leave the stilettos at home if you are heading up to the terrace. The steps are brutal—especially after a few drinks—and the bathroom is on the first floor.
Costa Rica 4661, b/t Gurruchaga and Armenia, Palermo Viejo (4833/3200). Open 8:30pm-2am Mon. Tue-Sun from 9am.
LUNCH SPOTS
Lunch is one of those pleasurable experiences in Buenos Aires, very unrushed, very European with a lingering sensation. It is also the main meal of the day for most people so you can order inspiring main courses or lighter fare. Although all these places offer dinner, I felt the ambience was better at lunch. With a glass of wine and some optional sun on the terrace, there is no way to go wrong.
Lo de Jesús
I must confess. I love this place! Its cuteness and eye-catching exterior won me over from the get-go. On a quiet, typical Palermo Viejo corner, this grocery-store-cum-bar is painted a mesmerizing shade of turquoise, with retro-style windows hung with lace curtains. Inside, its checker board floor, imposing mahogany bar, old photos, soda water still served in fountain bottles, and chalkboards with the daily specials, create the feeling of another time. Now an upscale parrilla, it was born in 1953 by Jesus Pernas (Lo de Jesús in Spanish means Jesus’ Place). Good prosciutto, grilled provolone. Try the daily grilled fish like paraná or abadejo, or their tantalizing bife.
Gurruehaga 1406 with Cabrera, Palermo Viejo (4831/1961). Open 10am-2am, daily.
Social Paraíso
One of the original pavement blazers in Palermo Viejo, this comfortable, democratic, and cute bistro serves up honest, fresh flavors with a slight Mediterranean lilt to the young and old, funky and nerd, in and out. It is the quintessential lunch spot while cruising the art galleries or designer clothing stores, or perhaps a quite night out with your favorite date. Lunch menu is an excellent value.
Honduras 5182, b/t Thames and Uriarte, Palermo Viejo (4831/4556). Open 12:30-4pm, 8:30pm-midnight Tue-Sat; 12:30-4pm Sun.
Bar 6
One of the coolest hangouts, eating, and drinking spots in Palermo Viejo. The architecture rules here with a soft curved, Scandinavian-style ceiling made of natural wood, contrasted against concrete floors and walls. Coupled with their plush, comfy couches, what more could you want for chilling out with friends, a newspaper, Mojito, or one of their delicious daily specials. DJs make an appearance on the weekend with cool music.
Armenia 1676, b/t El Salvador and Honduras, Palermo Viejo (4833/6807). Open from 8am, Mon-Sat.
Bar Uriate
All you see from the street is the kitchen through a glass-plate window. Passers-by can stop to watch the chefs cook with the silence and concentration of Swiss watchmakers. Part of the trio including Sucre and Gran Bar Danzón, this eatery puts on a great lunch menu in well-designed digs in Palermo Viejo. Its menu is Mediterranean-influenced with delicious risottos and raviolis, or pizzas crisped to perfection in the adobe oven.
Uriarte 1572, b/t Honduras and Gorriti, Palermo Viejo. (4834/6004). Open noon-2:30am, daily.
Bo Bo
A stylish, low-key boutique hotel off a shady street in Palermo Viejo, the restaurant and hotel playing on the Bourgeois Bohemians, or Bobos (see David Brooks book, Bobos in Paradise: The New Upper Class and How They Got There, link: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0684853787/...). The menu is Modern Argentinean with a heavy dose of Italian influence (we had a delicious shrimp fettuccine). Service was skimpy but the comfortable booths and glass of wine made the wait tolerable.
Guatemala 4882, b/t Borges and Thames, Palermo Viejo (4774-0505). Open 8am-2am daily.
Bio
Give your digestive system a break from all the beef and enjoy a light lunch at this charming little lunch spot in a perfect location in Palermo Viejo. The vegetarian fare here is so good you won’t miss the meat. The menu changes frequently to represent what is seasonally available. Excellent gourmet soups, salads, and a variety of fresh juices available year-round.
Humboldt 2199, and Guatemala, Palermo Viejo (4774/3880). Open 10am-3pm Mon; 10am-1am Tue-Sun.
ETHNIC
Like all great cities of the world, and Buenos Aires is one of them, there is an ethnic offering of all the nationalities that have helped to mold and develop the gastronomy. Buenos Aires may be well known for its steak and pasta but venture beyond that to discover these tantalizing restaurants, especially if you live in an “ethnic food starved” city, like Santiago, Chile!
Bereber
Attacked with an unstoppable Moroccan food hankering while in Buenos Aires? Look no farther. This modern restaurant makes its own merguez (spicy lamb sausage), fluffy couscous, and a variety of steaming tagines. The tagines and other slow-cooked dishes make love to Argentina’s glorious meat. Although porteños are wimps with the spicy factor, a little side dosing of Harissa will light up your palate. If the weather permits, you can dine alfresco on the terrace.
Armenia 1886, b/t Costa Rica and Nicaragua, Palermo Viejo (4833/5662). Open 8pm-1am daily.
Sarkis
I love Levantine cuisine and was pysched to find it in BA. If you are wondering what cuisine this is, Levantine cuisine covers the Middle East at the eastern edge of the Mediterranean: Syria, Jordan, Lebanon and Egypt. If you have never tried it, do yourself a favor and get to this joint. Forget about the fluorescent lighting, elbow the locals to a table and order up dips, kebabs, eggplant and lamb dishes. You can make a meal out of the starters. Recommendable with a group as you can try lots more.
Thames 1101, and Jufre, Villa Crespo (4772/4911). Open noon-3pm, from 8pm daily.
Filo
This place was one of the first cool pizza joints back in the 90s in Buenos Aires. Its popularity continues strong, especially for pizza-worshippers. The food is straight-up modern Italian cuisine which also calls itself an “art restaurant” and bar. Try their creative salads, homemade al dente pastas, 100 kinds of crisp pizzas or paninis. To wash all that down there is a long list of champagne and drinks (including many imported whiskeys).
San Martin 975, b/t Marcelo T de Alvear and Paraguay, Retiro (4311/0312), Subte C San Martín. Open from noon daily.
Empire Thai
Doesn’t look like much from outside but this low-lit, Thai hole-in-the-wall serves up the gamut of curries (from tongue-numbing hot perfect for the Brit crowd to almost sweet for those spice phobic Argentineans). Great vodka martinis (choose your specific poison). Even if you are not in the mood to eat, it is a good place for a drink and a nibble. The satays were delicious.
Tres Sargentos 427, b/t San Martín and Reconquista (4312/6106). Subte C, Retiro. Open noon-1am Mon-Fri; 7pm-1am Sat.
Dashi
Sushi in Buenos Aires? Agreed that it isn’t the most natural association given that beef is king, however, if you have a craving for sushi, or Japanese food in general, this is your best bet. With vast windows in a prime spot in Palermo Viejo, you can sit in the gray and rose interior and nosh on stellar rolls and sashimi (fish selections are not as varied as in other parts of the world). Hot and non-fish/seafood dishes are also exquisite for the non sushi goers.
Fitz Roy 1613, and Gorriti, Palermo Viejo (4776/3500). Open 12:30-3pm, 8pm-1am Mon-Fri; 8pm-1am Sat.
Green Bamboo
Posed on a picturesque Palermo corner with lots of window-side tables, this place is decidedly oriental and somewhat elegant, but a couple key pieces of art, like the Ho Chi Minh warhol-esque painting and dangling pearl curtains, give it a funky feel. The food, Vietnamese style, is dead on. Do NOT miss the prawn rice paper rolls—delicate, aromatic, crisp, and crunchy, they hit all the taste buds in exactly the right way.
Costa Rica 5802, and Carranza, Palermo Viejo (4775/7050). Open 8:30pm-2:30am Daily.
Sudestada
This super swish, Pan-Asian restaurant oozes coolness from its strategically located Palermo Viejo corner. In minimalist digs, you can down delectable dishes from Laos, Thailand, Burma, and Vietnam (the chef’s home country). Once again, place your bets on the spring rolls for starters and the pork in spicy peanut sauce (warn any Argentineans accompanying you for fear of burning their palate). For dessert, make sure to leave room for their Vietnamese coffee.
Guatemala 5602, and Fitz Roy, Palermo Viejo (4776/3777). Open noon-3:30pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat.
Palitos
Belgrano is the epicenter for the boom in the Chinese immigration to Argentina. At this Taiwanese restaurant in the barrio chino, you can eat up specialties like sweet-and-sour chicken, eggs rolls, or even venison. The crowd is all ages and the lunch menu is astounding cheap (I won’t even tell you how much, go check it out!). Meander around the area after—it is full of Buddhist temples, Asian grocery stores, and tea houses. A fascinating voyage into one of Argentina’s fastest growing immigrant communities.
Arribeños 2243, b/t Mendoza and Olazabal, Belgrano (4786/8566). Open noon-4pm, 8pm-2am Tue-Sun.
PARRILLADAS & BODEGONES
Che, forget about the sushi, sophistication, and coolness for a while, these traditional restaurants, specializing in meat and pasta, offer food that most porteños can afford. It is not fancy but simple, honest food. Most of them are adorned with shrines of their favorite soccer teams, Carlos Gardel, ex-presidents and have whole hams or cheeses hanging from the ceiling. Many are a reflection of the owner’s heritage (Spain or Italy). They are full of local color and if want to eat on the cheap with the locals, here you go. Cabaña Las Lilas is the only exception.
Cabaña Las Lilas
This is the equivalent of Peter Luger’s steakhouse (New York) in Buenos Aires--being that it is the premier place to try a steak (although Happening just down the docks is a close second). With high prices to match, you can try Angus and Hereford steaks grilled to perfection in cuts like the succulent bife de chorizo. Sommeliers on staff can help you navigate the gargantuan wine list.
Alicia Moreau de Justo 516, b/t Corrientes and Perón, Puerto Madero. Subte B, LN Alem. Open noon-3:30pm; 7:30pm-midnight, daily.
Rodi Bar
This place is a bit of an oddity in Recoleta—first because of its price and lack of glamour. Straight out of Galicia (northwestern Spain), the menu is Spanish with traditional dishes like hake and octopus in the regional style. They also have great steak. The ambience is old world and friendly and makes for a casual but tasty lunch.
Vicente López 1900, and Ayacucho, Recoleta (4801/5230).
El Obrero
This is only for those willing to go on an adventure. It is hard to find and in a very rough-and-tumble area of La Boca (don’t even think about not going in a taxi). However, it has a buzz because the word is out: it is a museum of porteño (culinary) culture. The walls are a shrine to various soccer teams, the place is slowly falling apart (try to avoid the bathroom), but the locals and some occasional celebs pack in for the humongous heapings of Argentinean beef, sweetbreads, and morcilla, the blood sausage (which is delicious!). This is a classic popular (meaning “mass”) steak joint. It is best to go in a group and settle in for a looooong lunch or dinner.
Agustín Caffarena 64, y Pedro de Mendoza, La Boca (4362/9912).
El Desnivel
Right off the antique drag near the Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo, this is a decent stop to recharge your batteries while moseying in San Telmo (Sunday’s by 1pm, the place is a mob scene). It has good, noisy ambience, mediocre but cheap food, huge steaks manned from the grill at the entrance, and service is friendly and prompt. The clientele is a mix of tourists, locals, and expats. Try the grilled provolone but avoid the pastas (overcooked). Wines are nothing special so it is best to stick to cold beer.
Defensa 855, b/t Independencia and Estados Unidos, San Telmo (4300/9081), Subte C, Independencia.
Cafés
Just like in Paris, café culture is vital to Buenos Aires. Porteños meet at all times of the day to discuss politics, literature, soccer, catch up with old friends, read the paper, or smoke a Marlboro with an espresso. Join them to take a pause in the day, or simply observe Argentinean culture up close.
Tortoni
The quintessential Buenos Aires café. Opened in 1858, come here to soak up the traditional atmosphere and history where different literati and politicians have debated for more than a century over a strong double espresso. Although recent press has made Tortoni more a spot on the sightseeing circuit, go anyway. It is an important reference in understanding the importance of cafés and coffee in Argentina.
Avenida de Mayo 829, b/t Piedras and Tacuarí (4342/4328). Subte A, Piedras. Open 8am-3am, Mon-Sat; 9am-1am Sun.
Bar Plaza Dorrego
Right on the corner of Plaza Dorrego, this tanguero bar, serving beers and cocktails for more than a century. It screams nostalgia with dusty bottles, scribbling on the walls, picture frames of Carlos Gardel, and dim lighting. It is perhaps the perfect spot to spend an afternoon over a schopp and peanuts, checking out the rhythm of the antiques market.
Defensa 1098, and Humberto I (4361/0141). Open 8am-3am daily.
Mark’s Deli
Mark’s Deli for me is what coffeehouses were about back before the era of Starbucks and all the chains. Funny I found it in BA. It has a gringo feel to it and they serve lovely coffee drinks, especially Iced Coffee in the summertime, in addition to chilled lemonade, great chocolate chip cookies, and filling sandwiches. Easy to spot from far away; it is painted Crush orange.
El Salvador 4701, and Armenia (4832/6244). Open 8:30am-9:30pm, Mon-Sat; 10:30am-9pm Sun.
Osara
Yummmm…take a big whiff. Your senses will be soothed with the homey smells of freshly ground and brewed coffee and dark chocolate brownies. Kick back by one of the windows for a view of the street life and read a book or write in your journal. It is the perfect way to chill out for an hour—or two.
Borges 1730, b/t Russell and El Salvador. Open 10am-10pm Tue, Wed; 10am-11pm Thur; 10am Fri; from 2pm Sat; 2-10pm Sun.
Wine Shops
Calling all wine geeks and wine lovers. Do not miss your big chance in BA to stock up on Argentinean wine. There is so much more happening there than Malbec. Get to a couple of these wine stores to find out about the sparkling wine scene, the San Juan province, Malbecs of different styles, and of course, impossible-to-get bottles outside Argentina. I will be posting an article on Argentine wine in the next month.
La Finca
A required stop for all wine geeks interested in picking up some hard-to-find bottles from garage and boutique wineries in the Mendoza region. The shop itself is very cute and homey, with the owner, José Carlos Candisano, personally guiding clients to winning bottles. Here I picked up the fabulous Lagún, a totally different style of Malbec and Sangre de Toro (still in the cellar). They have coordinated wine tastings too for 6 or more people with tapas.
Costa Rica 4615, b/t Armenia and Gurruchaga (4832/3004). Open 11am-midnight daily.
Grand Cru
Very chichi and top notch wine store. You can find prized bottles here from all over the world. Prices match the sophistication.
Avenida Alvear 1718, b/t Callao and Rodríguez Peña, Recoleta (4816/3975). Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat.
Ligier
In Chile we have the Mundo del Vino, in Buenos Aires you have Ligier. Catering towards tourists, the shop attendants are a wealth of information in helping you pick out bottles in your style and price range from the different regions of Argentina.
Avenida Santa Fe 800, and Esmeralda, Retiro (4515/0126). Subte C, San Martin. Alternate location: Av. Callao 1111, and Santa Fe (4815/8100). www.ligier.com.ar
Winery
Ligier’s competition but with a more modern twist and different wine selection; particularly impressive was the sparkling wine from Mendoza. Some locations have wine bars and/or serve up yummy bites to try the wines.
Corrientes 302, and 25 de mayo, Microcentro (4394/2200). Open 9am-8pm Mon-Fri; 9am-2pm Sat. Other locations: Av. LN Alem 880, Retiro (4311/6607); Av. Del Libertador 5100 Belgrano (4774/1190); Av. Del Libertador 500, Retiro. www.winery.com.ar
Terroir
Make sure you leave the hotel with address in hand as the signage for Terroir is non-existent at best. Just ding the doorbell to come in. As with many exclusive shops, half the fun is being “in the know” to get there. But don’t worry, the owners are friendly and their fine wine selection from both Argentina and the rest of the world is impressive. They ship anywhere, including US addresses.
Buschiazzo 3040, b/t Seguí and Av. Del Libertador, Palermo (4778/3443). Open 10:30am-9pm Mon-Sat. www.terroir.com.ar
Hotel Picks
So many hotels in so many locations. I am partial to Barrio Norte in Recoleta near Santa Fe. It is a gorgeous, well-located area half way between the Microcentro and Retiro and Palermo Viejo. Lots of shopping on Santa Fe, manicure and massages, and Danzón and Milión are in this area. Art Hotel in my opinion, is BA’s best hotel deal ever. It is like staying in a boutique hotel in Paris, for a fraction of the price.
Art Hotel
Opened in March 2004, this old mansion, typical of the Recoleta area has been remodeled into 36 rooms with neo-industrial and designer chic. A very European (overwhelmingly French) vibe makes it popular with Europeans. The rooms are small but well equipped. The location and price are a great value.
Azcuénaga 1268, b/t Arenales and Beruti, Recoleta (4821/4744). www.arthotel.com.ar
Design Suites & Towers
Minimalist suites in a good location. Rooms are the white, steel, wood trio with lots of natural light. Certain suites can accommodate up to 4-5 people.
Marcel T de Alvear 1683, b/t Rodríguez Peña and Montevideo (4814/8700) www.designsuites.com
Hotel Bel Air
Another good choice in the Barrio Norte area is the Bel Air, off the charming Plaza Vicente López (note: this is gourmet heaven with lots of “goodie shops”, cheese, chocolate, teas, sweets, wine all within blocks). The hotel is from the 1920s and funky. It is also very popular. Book early.
Arenales 1462, b/t Uruguay and Paraná, Recoleta (4021/4000). www.hotelbelair.com.ar
Alvear Palace
This is the Shangra-La of Buenos Aires. Built in the 1930s and taking up a full half block, there are more Armani and Chanel spottings outside this hotel than anyplace else in the city. The rooms are opulent, decadent, elegant and come with Hermés bathroom toiletries. Service is impeccable—you can even hire a private butler. All of this, of course, for a price.
Avda. Alvear 1891, b/t Callao and Ayacucho, Recoleta (4808/2100) www.alvearpalace.com
LoiSuites
In the heart of Recoleta, this 100+ all-suite hotel is super chichi and contemporary. A splurge? Absolutely. The lobby is white and open, the garden charming, the rooms impeccable. Once again, book early. There are other LoiSuites in town, but this one is by far is the coolest and most popular one.
Vicente López 1955, b/t Junín and Ayacucho (5777/8950) www.loisuites.com.ar
Faena Hotel + Universe
I am debating if I even should include this, but as a Philippe Starcke admirer, I feel somewhat obligated. This is more than a hotel, this is an “experience”—maybe if David Lynch designed and produced a hotel! Supposedly the lastest, greatest, coolest, and most design hotel in BA, I personally found it to be all hype. I went to check it out and have dinner there. We didn’t order a martini. It is showy and posh, almost over the top but more to the point, it felt pretentious and the location stinks (you are in the boonies of Puerto Madero which means you are taxi-dependent. In fact, it felt more like the US suburbs more than BA). If you are going to spend that kind of money, personally I recommend the Alvear. Or if you want an international chain, Caesar Park or the Four Seasons.
Martha Salotti 445, Dique 2, Madero Este, Puerto Madero (4010/9000) www.faenaexperience.com
Bobo
Opened last year with only 7 rooms, this designer B&B in Palermo Viejo is affordable luxury. All the rooms have a different theme. A decent option if you want to mostly check out Palermo Viejo and its restaurants, shops, cafés, art galleries, etc.
Guatemala 4882, and Thames, Palermo Viejo (4774/0505) www.bobohotel.com)
Malabia House
Remodeled in 2004, this historic home in the heart of Palermo Viejo has been renovated into 15 rooms, all with their own décor. It has the warm feeling of a B&B where you can hang out in the living room or garden with the other cool people staying there. Privileged location in Palermo Viejo. You will never have to take a taxi anywhere to go out at night. I have found it to get pricier in the past year or so.
Malaba 1555, b/t Gorriti and Honduras, PalermoViejo (4833/2410) www.malabiahouse.com.ar
Che Lulu
This is the only budget recommendation but a good dato. Hidden in Palermo Viejo, Che Lulu is an old, renovated house (still a little rough around the edges) with a lot of personality. There’s an antique staircase, a roof terrace, patio, and lots of hip people to hang out with. Rooms are brightly painted with individual names. You can opt for private room with private bath or dorm room style. It falls somewhere between a hostel and B&B. It has been recommended for those on a budget or traveling alone as it is easy to meet traveling companions. Very homey.
Pasaje Emilio Zola 5185, b/t Justo Santa María de Oro and Godoy Cruz, Palermo Viejo (4772/0289) www.luluguesthouse.com
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Sharing your admiration for Philippe Starck, in HongKong I always stop by at the Felix, atop the Peninsula. A must for the men, who HAVE to take a whiz in that amazing bathroom where - while relieving - will be looking down on HongKong, where Starck was undoubtedly inspired by that ancestral pleasure of relieving in the great outdoors
Posted by: Gustavo | Monday, November 07, 2005
Hello Liz,
I am a recent fan of yours. i had the pleasure of discovering you while vacationing in BA for the month of Jan -Feb! You are fabulous and i share you taste buds. i am returning to BA in a week and planning a long week-end in bariloche. do you have any restaurant or hotel recommendations? i appreciate your time as well as your opinion. thank you in advance for getting back to me!
Heather
Corona del Mar, Califlornia
Posted by: Heather Hollister | Wednesday, February 22, 2006
Hi, Liz:
I was surprised you didn´t mention La Brigada Steak House on Estados Unidos 465 (tel: 4361-5557) in San Telmo. They have the best, best, best wine list in BA. They have a Vertical selection of just about any wine. If you want to ask for any specific wine, you have to ask the owner, Hugo, who sits behind the cash register. Guests are also invited to taste for free a selection of more than 20 wines at their wine store (where they have 42,000 bottles), including Achával Ferrer Quimera.
La Brigada uncontestably has the best "achuras" (innards I guess is the best translation). Their chorizos, salchichas, molleja (sweetbreads) de chivito (goat), and chinchulines (tripe).
Also the empanadas are the best I´ve tried in the city. Their steaks are great, but the beast meat to order is their "Corte Especial" (Special Cut).
Another great restaurant is Bengal. Don´t be confused by the name. It´s not Indian food, although they have a couple of Indian dishes. The have a 4-course entrée and a 7-course meal that is superb. I wouldn´t call this high cuisine, but i would rank it as one of the top 3 restaurants in BA. Arenales 837 (corner with Esmeralda), tel: 4394-8557.
Loved your BA write-up.
Best, Víctor
Posted by: Víctor Honoré | Friday, April 14, 2006
Good day! guys please tell me where can I download free pron
Posted by: ruspetriot | Thursday, February 14, 2008
Hello Victor, your comment on La Brigada's 'el corte especial' is very interesting. I heard that it's 1.6 kg of gigantic cut for four persons. Is it a steak or a roast meat? Could you give more description on it? And I'm wondering if you could post a picture of it if you have. Thank you. Sincerey, kang
Posted by: Kang Chung | Tuesday, March 04, 2008