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Sunday, November 20, 2005
Comer Vino (Revista Mujer, 20-11-05, Edición 1206)
Por Liz Caskey
Frambuesas. Guindas. Cerezas. Frutillas. No estoy hablando de las frutas más queridas del verano sino de los aromas de ciertos vinos tintos. Ultimamente, he tenido mi nariz metida en diferente ocasiones en copas de vinos que suelen ser el Pinot Noir o el Carmenere. Me encantan sus notas aromáticas de frutas rojas: jugosas, levemente dulces, besadas por el sol. Una seducción total al olfato. Después de tanto coqueteo con la copa, me acordé de una de mis recetas favoritas que combina estos vinos tintos sedosos con el frescor de las frutillas, que están actualmente en su “peak”. Es una receta facíl y rápida de preparar, incluso se puede hacer todo un día antes. Los sabores están marcados y equilibrados y a mi juicio, es quizás la mejor forma de “comer vino”. No salten la guarnición, las notas verdes le dan el toque a este postre elegante pero sencillo. Para una presentación que impresiona, pueden servirlo en las mismas copas de vino. Salud!—o buen provecho.
Frutillas maceradas en Salsa de Vino Tinto con Crema Fresca
1 kilo de frutillas, limpias (sin tallo verde) y cortadas a la mitad
1 taza de vino tinto (Pinot Noir, Carmenere o Merlot, un tinto suave pero con algo de cuerpo)
2 tazas de agua
1 taza de azúcar granulado
1 pote de crema espesa
½ bolsa de crema ácida
Menta o albahaca cortada finamente en hilos para guarnición (para los más aventureros, la albahaca es una combinación inusual pero combina muy, muy bien con las frutillas. Pruébenla!)
1. Combinar el vino tinto con el agua y azúcar en una olla. Hervir el “jugo” suavemente sobre fuego mediano-alto hasta reducirse por la mitad durante una hora aproximada (Debe ser un jarabe dulce con sabor a vino). Retirar del fuego y dejar enfriar completamente. Refrigerar.
2. En un bol, combinar las dos cremas bien. Guardar en el refrigerador.
3. Para armar el postre, en una copa de vino colocar las frutillas preparadas y cubrir hasta la mitad con la salsa de vino. Luego, con una cuchara de sopa, ponerle una cucharadas de crema encima de las frutillas y espaciar con la menta o albahaca en hilos.
17:50 Posted in MUJER MAGAZINE-La Tercera Newspaper (Chile) | Permalink | Comments (0) | Trackbacks (0) | Email this
Thursday, November 17, 2005
Chile's New Wine Superstars
Michael Schachner of Wine Enthusiast in his article "Chile's Fresh Faces" (November 1, 2005 issue), recently profiled Chile’s newcomers, many boutique-style vineyards, who are favoring quality-driven wines and whose first vintages were all in this millennium. The “fab five” cover different wine valleys in Chile’s central region, a couple of which even qualify as "garage" wineries with very low quantities and yields. The next time you want to try some inspiring Chilean terroir in a bottle, I recommend getting your hands on some of these gems. And if you are in Chile, try to visit them (our wine tours visit several of these!) With further delay, Ladies and Gentlemen, the “fab five”:*
Altair Vineyards and Winery (www.altairwines.com): The investment of the Laurent Dassault family in Bordeaux and the mammoth-sized wine powerhouse Viña San Pedro (responsible for Chile's own "Two Buck Chuck", otherwise know as Gato Negro). Located in the Cachapaol valley, one of Chile's newest wine appellations producing particularly good Carmeneres, Altair’s first vintage was in 2002. In addition to the premium wine Altair 2003 (94 points) US$60, a rich Bordeaux-style blend that is world class, they also produce a lower line Sideral 2003 (excellent price-quality ratio, 91 points), US$30.
Caliboro Estate (www.caliboro.com): Located in the southern wine region of the Maule, owner Count Francesco Marone Cinzano (heir to the Cinzano vermouth fortune) fell in love with the land and transplanted his family from Italy to Chile. The first vintage was in 2001, an excellent vintage by Chilean standards, with the help of expert local Chilean winemakers Augusto Reyes and Andres Sanchez. The production of the 2001 vintage only came to 1,200 cases but there is capacity to increase production. The result is Erasmo (88 points) US$30, a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 10% Cabernet Franc, fresh with less concentration but still compelling.
Matetic Vineyards (www.mateticvineyards.com): Located in the tiny San Antonio wine valley, only 20 kilometers from the wind blow Pacific coast, Matetic and its sleek gravity-flow wineries, have been pioneers in what is quickly becoming known as Chile’s cold weather wine valley since their first vintage in 2001. Cool maritime breezes, cloud cover, rolling hills, and the right soil have turned this into prime terroir for producing their outstanding line of EQ: Syrah 2003 (91 points) US$25 smoky, sensual and very masculine; 2003 Pinot Noir (86 points) US$25 mineraly, black currants, slightly peppery, a different kind of Pinot; and 2004 Sauvignon Blanc (88 points) US$15, with fresh melon and citrus flavors and such a crisp acidity that you hardly notice the high alcohol (14.6%).
Kingston Family Vineyards (www.kingstonvineyards.com): On the far western edge of the Casablanca wine valley, the fourth and fifth generations of the Kingston family (whose family originally came to Chile at the turn of the century in search of copper and gold), with the expertise of Byron Kosuge (former winemaker of Saintbury in California) are producing small quantities of high quality Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, and Syrah on their 200+ planted hectares. The wines are, in a word, outstanding. You can order them via their mailing list to be shipped anywhere in the US via the website. Cariblanco 2004 Sauvignon Blanc (90 points), US$15: citrus and lush melon but also an earthy component, perhaps from the natural yeast. Alazan Pinot Noir 2004 (89 points), US$30: Lush black cherries with a rich almost brawny background, earthy, and toasty flavors. This for me, was love at first sip. Bayo Oscuro Syrah 2003 (85 points) US$28: A wine with character, whether you like it or not. Violets, berries, and a lovely lingering peppery note. (Personal note: Wine Enthusiast didn’t seem to dig this wine. I personally liked it. Palates are subjective, keep this in mind!)
Odfjell Vineyards (www.odfjellvineyards.cl): Who would have thought that a huge international (Norwegian) shipping company would become one of Chile’s most interesting newcomer wineries? Well they have--and are causing a buzz. They turned the land purchased in the Isla de Maipo (Maipo Valley) west of Santiago from an orchard into a vineyard, with Laurence Odfjell, overseeing the business (he also is an architect who designed both their gravity-flow winery and Matetic Winery’s). Employing some interesting new technologies like whole-cluster fermenting (you don’t crush the grape, the wine is cold soaked and macerated), the unfiltered wines, all reds, offer lots of fruit, manageable tannins, and good prices. Here are the stars: Orzada Malbec 2003 (91 points), made with grapes from Curicó, US$18; Orzada Carmenere 2003 (90 points), from the Maipo valley US$18; Orzada Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 (89 points), from the Colchagua Valley, US$18.
*All the wine points and prices are quoted directly from the Wine Enthusiast article
00:30 Posted in Interesting Wines | Permalink | Comments (1) | Trackbacks (0) | Email this
Tuesday, November 15, 2005
The Art (or not so art) of the Chilean Asado
Another weekend, another asado. Such is life in Chile in the summer. Asados, otherwise know in English as barbeques, are much more than grilled meat and outdoor eating here; they are a full on event and social ritual.
We were invited over to our friends’ new house on Saturday night for an asado/housewarming party to put to use their brand new patio with the beautiful late spring weather. When we arrived, the fire was still being “staged”, with Pisco Sours in hand. I should interject here that in Chile, there are virtually no gas grills used like in the US. In fact, I have been called “crazy” or “uncreative” by even suggesting their use or superiority in an asado. There is a major cultural difference in that barbeques in South America are actually made with wood or carbon, which in all fairness, do infuse a more complex flavor into the meat if prepared correctly. “Making” and “taking care of” the fire also turns an asado into a cultural ordeal with the men strategizing the best way to get the fire going, maintaining the temperature, and of course, cooking the meat to perfection (with or without any previous experience, of course). The gals are usually exiled to the kitchen for the salads or to make drinks.
In this instance, there was no vessel for the barbeque such as a metal drum or actual asado equipment, only several cement blocks whose parameter made up the fire pit over sand. In the bottom of the pit, carbon and recycled wood from the demolition (80 years old they assured, extra flavor) was put with a wine bottle encased in old newspaper. They removed the bottle (which retained the shape) and lit the newspaper, which slowly burned igniting the carbon and wood, eventually creating glowing, red coals. They stacked a couple extra cement blocks to get the height needed for cooking and then popped on some chicken skewers and famous chorizo, or spicy pork sausage. Everything looked okay at this point so the party went on autopilot.
30 minutes later, the first round of food is ready: the skewers and choripan, the chorizo eaten inside marraqueta (baguette-style bread) with (or without) mayo. Everything is delicious. The meat and chicken in gringo-style barbeque sauce (my offering to the festivities) were then added to the grill. I noticed however, as the wine drinking increased, that the fire seemed to be slowing down and our grill master had disappeared. After another 30 minutes of negligence, the fire had stopped giving off any significant heat and people, now very hungry, were wondering when dinner would be served (sorry guys, no time soon). Our friend, the host and grill master, decided that an emergency procedure would be needed to resuscitate the fire from its desperate state. He removed the grill (a simple oven rack) and two of the blocks. He disappeared to his photography studio and returned with a huge fan which he plugged in. He then turned on the fan full blast, trying to generate enough air (more like a wind storm) to get the flames going again over fresh wood and carbon. Now, this could have worked in theory had the fire been confined to a cement jail cell. What wasn’t calculated was the huge pile of wood directly behind the pit which promptly almost caught on fire (as his fiancé freaked out). Mission aborted. More wood was needed for the fire so one of the invitees, with cigarette and red wine balancing in one hand, decided to hack at a piece of wood into splinters. I was cringing hoping to avoid calling the firemen or ambulance at this point.
Next, a sushi fan was brought out which between 5 people (now all suffering from carpal tunnel syndrome) fanned like hell for 15 minutes to get the flames and charcoal glowing. It worked--somewhat. Enough to half-cook the chicken and some of the steak. The solution our grill master decided was to lower the rack to bring the meat to roughly 1 inch from the flame to cook faster. Uh-oh. At this point, now midnight with growling stomachs, I motioned to finish searing the meat in a fry pan and roasting it in the oven. There was no way a 1.5 kilo chunk of meat (not cut down into smaller steaks) was going to finish cooking before 7am. I mean, come on!, the ritual aspect was gone, hunger ruled, and we had a working stove and oven over this makeshift pit. I was outvoted—the asado must go on. His fiancé insisted we sit down to start in on the delicious salads she had been preparing.
As we dug into the salads, the grill master appeared, smiling, with a large wooden cutting board, and a singed, black piece of meat. He proudly announced, “See? The meat is finally done”. As he cut into the meat, he described the magic of its perfect doneness as the special salt crust (he roughly poured a ½ cup directly onto it; people with high blood pressure please pass). As he continued to cut, the meat was juicy and pink but as the first slice came off, was so pink, it looked raw. Why! It was totally uncooked in ¾ of the center! An argument ensued among the men at the table about the doneness and their wimpiness for not wanting to try it in that state (from a culinary perspective, it was absolutely uncooked, not even rare doneness). I passed. The meat, after much debate, was returned to the grill to finish cooking.
Many bottles of wine later, a delicious French apple tart for dessert and coffee, I happened to notice through the sliding glass door on the patio that the poor piece of meat, an unassuming casualty of the asado, had been forgotten and was still smoking over smoldering coals. Laughing out loud (this was comical at this point), I pointed this out to the hostess, who had lost her patience, and yelled at the grill master, “Look at that (pointing to the fire)! You did it again!!!” Apparently he is a serial steak murderer, having killed another one, to her horror, at an asado the weekend before with her family. Opening the door, the fire with a horrible stench, I was sure that the neighbors had already called the fire department. The grill master, defeated and slightly drunk, stumbled out to the fire pit and tossed sand over the ashes. The asado saga had ended.
So, next time when people here call me crazy for wanting to use a gas grill, I think I will just have to tell them this story. Some steak for thought.
14:30 Posted in RAMBLINGS | Permalink | Comments (1) | Trackbacks (0) | Email this
Sunday, November 13, 2005
Abs Diet 101
Here’s the deal on the Abs Diet. You eat a lot, every 3 hours. You never should be hungry. There is no portion control—you oversee that. Eat until you are satisfied. Since the foods are high-protein, high-fiber you will fill up quickly and not get hungry for hours (remember anxiety is mental, not physical. You have to learn to decipher body signals).
The cheat sheet for the Abs Diet is:
Almonds and other nuts
Beans and legumes
Spinach and lots of non-starchy vegetables, especially green ones
Dairy (fat-free or low-fat milk, yogurt, and cheese)
Instant Oatmeal (no sweetener or flavor)
Eggs
Turkey and other lean meats and fish
Peanut Butter (homemade with Canola oil, no sugar or salt or preservatives)
Olive oil
Whole-grain bread and cereals
Extra-protein (whey) powder
Raspberries, berries, and other low Glycemic Index fruit
Some tips:
- Keep the booze to 3 drinks per week and if you are going out on a big night, try to hit the gym the day of
- You can cheat once a week for one meal—eat anything you want.
- Exercise: don’t skimp on this. At least 30 minutes 3-4 times per week. More if you want to see faster and dramatic results.
- Off limits, as in don’t even think about buying them and if you already have them in your cupboard, ditch them NOW: refined carbs like white flour or sugar or with a high Glycemic Index, saturated fats (butter is out), trans fat (margarine or those evil hydro oils), and high-fructose corn syrup. Beyond the calories, this stuff is clinically shown to be bad for your health.
- Learn to read labels: all those “light”, “low fat”, “low carb” stuff is usually chock full of chemicals or the off limit components above.
- Eating in smaller portions every 3 hours is the ultimate weapon for your metabolism. You will rev it beyond belief. To burn calories you have to eat!!! But eat wisely and frequently.
- Smoothies are the man!! Mix fruit, yogurt, whey, low-fat milk and ice for a dessert-like breakfast, meal, or snack. I even use low-fat chocolate milk with the peanut butter, fat-free vanilla yogurt and whey for a PB Brownie healthy version.
- In 2 weeks you will start feeling different; in 4 weeks you will see the difference; in 6 weeks the Abs will be appearing.
Good Luck!
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Saturday, November 12, 2005
That Four Letter Word: Diet
In the food and wine world, this word tends to elicit a fair amount of light jokes, chuckles, or even eye-rolling. There seems to be a common consensus among chefs, restaurant and food critics, wine writers, and other gastronomic/wine professions that if you conceive the world via food that somehow it is a virtually impossible feat to eat healthy and stay in shape. There are just too many temptations.
I was recently at a wine event (a book launching) where one of the presenters told an entertaining story about how a recent college graduate could aspire to become a restaurant critic. One of the points that caught my attention during his story was that he advised this aspiring food critic that in addition to wanting to learn and write about food, he must also be prepared to gain many extra kilos in the process. It left me thinking about why there is a seemingly inherent incompatibility with loving food and wine and staying fit. Does being a gourmand automatically mean that you have to be destined to be fat or flabby—with a highly trained palate of course? Why does the pleasure of the palate have to translate to gluttony, unhealthy food, and lack of control? Why doesn’t the balance of eating well and exercise enter into this equation? After all, isn’t balance what creates a magnificent plate or grand wine?
I am a confessed and known health conscious eater and exerciser. Here in Chile, they call me “obsesionada” or “excesiva” with getting up to work out or go to yoga at 6a.m. or passing on the bread (Chileans are carb junkies). However, my personal experience is that balance—eating healthy and exercising—makes everything, and I mean everything, taste better. Ever try a juicy, sweet mandarine orange after a hard workout? The flavors are pure and intense and go straight to your brain. Crunchy arugula salad with roasted chicken and a drizzle of top quality olive oil. Am I suffering with diet food? No way. Eating healthy is simply the opposite end of the spectrum of all those rich, fatty, gourmet treats I love. You know them: foie gras, paté, stinky French cheese (or high test cheese of any kind), dark chocolate, thai curry, Oaxacan black mole, lamb saag, pommes frites, rich gelatos, cashews, eggs Benedict, peanut butter, mashed potatoes and gravy, the list goes on and on. However, I find if I eat them all the time, I tire of them quickly because they are so rich. The secret to these “goodie” or “specialty” food items is to eat them in small quantities or infrequently so that they never loose their mystery or "food appeal". And when you do try them, wow!, the textures and sensations are more intense and "new".This also applies to eating fresh, delicious vegetables, fruits, whole grains, etc. which make your body feel good. It is important for us gastronomic and wine professionals to not loose sight that the palate is only the entrance for food to our body—and that taste is fleeting. The body assimilates everything we put in it—just like a drug.
Diet, that is, what you usually eat and drink, has a profound effect on how you look, feel, think, and act. I went through a couple years of looking for some magic formula that would work perfectly for me: Atkins, Fat Flush (you only flush the toilet with this one), South Beach, Low Fat, High Protein, Vegetarian (yoga-induced), etc. Fad diets come and go and did some produce great results. However, the best “diet” I have found, which is more like a moderation lifestyle or diet in the true sense of the word, is the Abs Diet (www.absdiet.com). It is the best way to stay in shape, keep your taste buds amused and waistline under control. It works because its principals are based on smart eating (the kind that all personal trainers preach) and you can still eat all the goodies in moderation. And of course, I cannot emphasize exercising enough: walking, running, gym, biking, yoga, anything you want, just get off your butt and move it. Calories are like a bank account, but in this case you want a negative balance!! If you try to find the balance, I guarantee you will savor those red, ripe cherries in their maximum sweetness as much as that creamy and pungent chevre with a Sauvignon Blanc. More on the Abs Diet for those interested in the next post.
23:50 Posted in RAMBLINGS | Permalink | Comments (1) | Trackbacks (0) | Email this
Sunday, November 06, 2005
Buenos Aires Restaurant Recommendations
Buenos Aires Restaurant Recommendations
By Liz Caskey
Ahhhh, Buenos Aires, or “BA” as we call it here in South America. Imagine the elegance of Europe, the effervescence of New York, and a profoundly Latin soul all meshing seamlessly into one city. Picture wide tree-lined boulevards lined with cafés and restaurant terraces, turn-of-the-century European architecture that could be found in Paris or Madrid, while porteños, residents of Buenos Aires, engage in passionate debates or simply sip their rich espresso, take a drag off their cigarette, and read the paper. The city is a mirror of its intensely European roots, mostly Italian and Spanish, which is even reflected in their Spanish accent with an Italian lilt and, of course, their impeccable style. There are no major visual anchors here like the Christ statue in Rio—it is utterly urban, a Mecca of fashion, art, theater, and dining. However Buenos Aires’ true charm, like its beloved tango, is the game of seduction it plays; its mesmerizing effect on residents and visitors alike. The real Buenos Aires is a city of authentic neighborhoods all with their own unique flavor: La Boca, a working class Italian district with the best parrillada in town only frequented by locals or bold tourists; the downtown area with its majestic government and civic buildings such as the “pink” government Palace; chasing the arts scene in the Corrientes district with opera in the Teatro Colón, a play at one of the numerous theaters on Avenida Corrientes, or perusing the thousands of tiny bookstores in the area; flourishing Chinatown in Belgrano with its Asian markets and Buddhist temples, a sign of the new wave of immigration bracing Argentina; Old World elegance and wealth in Recoleta where even the defunct live in mansions in the Recoleta cemetery; Palermo Viejo, once middle class, this classic Buenos Aires’ neighborhood has turned trendy with designer stores, gourmet restaurants, all done in flawless taste, while still maintaining their spirit of an époque gone by; tranquil Tigre and Olivos on the river delta north of the city accessible by urban rail, where residents lunch on the weekends, shop its open air market, and take a walk along the Rio de la Plata shores. As one of the great cosmopolitan cities of the world, Buenos Aires is city of precious jewels constantly waiting to be found—and yes, they are food and wine obsessed. Buen provecho. Here are my food picks to eat up BA—and some other recs too.
HIT, NOT TO MISS
It would be a crime to come the whole way to Buenos Aires and not eat at one of these swanky places. Ambience varies from chichi to funky, but one thing is constant: good food and cool vibes.
Casa Cruz
This is the city’s latest culinary darling, and an impressive one indeed. Juan Santa Cruz and German Martitegui (chef of Olsen) join together to offer glitz and gastronomy in Palermo Viejo. First clue the place is swish: a shiny brass door (no sign of course). The place has tables of different sizes and plush red velvet booths. It is hush and posh all at the same time. The wine cellar, a see-through version in front of the kitchen in an “air-conditioned glass box”, is impressive. We stuck with Chandon Extra Brut the whole night as we jumped all over the wine-food pairing map. Not to be missed, the fresh foie gras mousse with fresh figs and hazelnuts; Patagonian lamb fillet poached in olive oil; or Smoked Ahi tuna with avocado cream. Everything was well thought out, delicious, and yes, there is a celeb scene. We were ecstatic when we saw Charly Alberti (the drummer of famed 80s-90s band, Soda Stereo) sitting two tables over. Make reservations--and dress cool.
Uriarte 1658, Palmero Viejo (4833/1113) www.casa-cruz.com
Sucre
This is one THE PLACES to eat in BA (Casa Cruz is my other pick). With its neo-industrial design, the wine cellar is staged in the middle of the restaurant and to get to the bathroom you must cross the catwalk across the rainbow-colored bar (bottles lit up with lights). The modern Argentine cuisine, under the watchful eye of Fernando Trocca, is served from the open-kitchen in the front. The wine list is phenomenonal offering top bottles from Argentina to Chile to Bordeaux. Make friends with the Sommelier and he will give you a tour of the wine “bunker”, and help you pick out the perfect bottle. Essential to make reservations for dinner.
Sucre 676, b/t Figueroa Alcorta and Castañeda, Belgrano (4782/9082). Open noon-5pm, 8pm-1am daily.
Thymus
A foodie’s dream and journey into an unforgettable evening of food in romantic surroundings. Chef Fernando Mayoral, trained in France with Michel Bras, creates deep tasting, layered dishes fusing fresh ingredients (like the herbs from his rooftop herb garden) with exotic techniques and flavors. The house/studio/restaurant is decorated with sculptures by Martín Vergara. Elgourmet.com, the equivalent of the Food Network in Argentina, rates this as the best restaurant in the city. The tasting menu is an event not to be missed.
Lerma 525, b/t Acevedo and Malabia, Villa Crespo (4772/1936), Open 8:30pm-12:30am Tue-Sat.
Sifones y Dragones
This is like a garage or an artist’s studio that has been outfitted with a decent (but rudimentary kitchen), tables, and some funky dishware. First tip: make a reservation. It is one of the most popular joints in BA right now and has few tables. It is like going to dinner at your artist friend’s house. The owners, couple Mariana and Favio, serve up made-on-the-spot dishes (menu changes daily). It is recommendable to bring your own wine and pay the corkage (only 8 pesos) as their wine list was not overly impressive or correctly stored. It is a funky, fun eating experience. Advisable to go in taxi.
Ciudad de la Paz 174, and Santos Dumont, Colegiales (15 4413/9871). Open 9pm-2am Tue-Sat.
PARTY ALL NIGHT LONG
Argentines can stay out until the sun comes up—so why not join them? Tip: take a nap from 8-11pm, get a light bite to eat and hit the bars by midnight. If you are ambitious, go have dinner first and then go out for a drink. Double espresso with dessert is highly recommended to ward off the effects of the wine.
Olsen
German Martitegui scored big with Olsen. Opened in 2001, it soon became BA’s IT restaurant with a beautifully manicured green lawn, lofted Scandinavian design made with blonde wood. After four years, it is still packed all the time. The food is Nordic and the best bet is the infused vodkas paired with Swedish-inspired tapas. Their vodka martinis too are decadent—you can choose from many top labels such as Grey Goose (for a price). They also do Sunday brunch. Holy hangover?
Gorriti 5870, b/t Carranza and Ravignani, Palermo Viejo (4776/7677). Open noon-1:30am Tue-Sat; from 10am Sun.
Milión
Milión ROCKS. I love this bar. It is epitome of Buenos Aires hipness with great cocktails, cool surroundings, and cute bartenders that are chatty. Housed in an 80 year-old French-style mansion, the place was painstakingly restored and reborn in 1999 as Milión—a stylish bar and restaurant. Frequented by the young and the cool, it is hip without being pretentious; funky without being over the top; kickin’ while maintaining a chill vibe. The bar is upstairs as are tables if you want to dine. You can also sip and nibble in their beautiful candlelit garden. Personally though, I think the action is at the bar. Do not miss this place!
Paraná 1048, b/t Marcelo T de Alvear and Santa Fé (4815/9925). Open noon-2am Mon-Wed; noon-3am Thus; noon-4am Fri; 7:30pm-4am Sat; 8pm-2am Sun.
Gran Bar Danzón
Oh-la-la. That is the impression that Danzón gives as you crawl up the candlelit, incense-flooded stairwell. At the top, a flirty, ultra-modern design houses one of BA’s best wine bars, the sister of bistros Sucre and Bar Uriarte. Weeknights get packed in the bar with Happy Hour or Jazz night but you can find refuge in the tables—and their delicious food. You can find some inspiring finds in the “Wine Bible”, Danzón’s 200-bottle wine list, available by the bottle or the glass. It is advisable to make friends with the sommelier (who was Leandro when I was there). He leaned us towards some astounding whites from Doña Paula and a boutique winery, Alto Las Hormigas, for a great Malbec. To accompany your wine orgasm, you can munch on Latin Pan-American cuisine such as duck confit-mango rice paper roll or excellent sushi.
Libertad 1161, between Santa Fe and Arenales, Recoleta (4811/1108). Subte D, Tribunales. Open from 7pm, Mon-Fri, from 8pm Sat, Sun.
Dadá
With a screaming cherry red facade, Dadá offers modern bistro fare at decent prices in a funky surroundings: Mondrian-esque glass and a mosaic bar. The place is small and gives off vibes of a post-work drinking hole with good food more than an eating spot. We had lunch here, which was outstanding—arugula gnocchi and capresse salad. They are proponents of small wineries so try a glass of whatever they are pouring. Drinks in the evening are also fun.
San Martín 941, b/t Marcelo T de Alvear and Paraguay (4314/4787). Subte C San Martín. Open noon-2am Mon-Sat
Mundo Bizarro
Mundo Bizarro falls somewhere between a punk and underground bar with slightly kitsch décor. The vibe is totally different (very alternative) than other bars in BA. The place gets packed so get there early to steal a leather booth and camp out, or install yourself at the bar to make friends with the bartender. A DJ spins tunes from punk to house or even jazz.
Guatemala 4802, and Borges (4773/1967). Open 8pm-3am Mon-Wed; 8pm-4am Thur; 8pm-5am Fri, Sat; 8pm-3am Sun.
Central
Chi chi. Suave. Slick. This sophisticated lounge, long and narrow with lots of concrete, beautiful people as decoration, and an open-view kitchen is a pioneer in Palermo Viejo. Chef Rodrigo Tosso serves up unconfused fusion cuisine with yummy bites like super crisp yucca chips. You can chill on the white leather couches with a martini and flickering candles at night (not recommendable if you want to eat, the high chairs are more comfortable), or for a long lunch, their magazine rack has lots of good reads. Make sure to check out the high design bathrooms.
Costa Rica 5644, b/t Fitz Roy and Bonpland, Palermo Viejo (4776/7374). Open 12:30pm-2am Mon-Fri; 10:30am-3am Sat-Sun.
Omm
The owners of Central strut their stuff again with a minimalist chic bar made of chrome. All white is the theme here (with candles at night) and great service. Mojitos rule as do the tasty tapas. It is a great place to start or end a bar tour in Palermo Viejo.
Honduras 5656, b/t Fitz Roy and Bonpland, Palermo Viejo (4774/4224). Open from 6pm Mon; from 11:30am Tue-Sun.
Supersoul
Yo!! The 70s are in here with disco balls, trippy colors, and a DJ spinning groovy tunes to get you moving. Next door to its sister, the red Soul Café, have a drink at the tangerine-inspired bar. Check for music listings—they have a flow of DJs.
Báez 252, b/t Arévalo and Arguibel, Las Cañitas (4776/3905). Open from 6pm Mon-Fri, Sun; from 7pm Sat.
Voodoo Lounge
Not exactly my personal bag but since it is down the street from Supersoul it is worth mentioning. It has a groovy look to it and does spin good electronic music and cocktails. Crowd can be aloof but it could make a good stop on a bar tour.
Báez 340, b/t Arévalo and Chenaut, Las Cañitas (4772/2453). Open from 9pm Wed-Sat.
La Farmacia
Funky, cute little bar that used to be an old pharmacy and still adorned with all the medicine bottles. Space is tight so cop a squat where you can find one and order a drink or glass of wine. Good food if the munchies attack.
Bolívar 898, and Estados Unidos, San Telmo. (4300/6151). Open 9am-1:30am Tue-Thur; 9am-2:30am Sat-Sun.
Lomo
This hip multi-space restaurant joins art, music, good drinks, and lots of meat. In fact, lomo in Spanish means fillet, or “hot bod”, if you are speaking the local slang. They have a beautiful zen-like terrace, great for a drink under the stars even if you decide to skip dinner. For us gals, word of warning—leave the stilettos at home if you are heading up to the terrace. The steps are brutal—especially after a few drinks—and the bathroom is on the first floor.
Costa Rica 4661, b/t Gurruchaga and Armenia, Palermo Viejo (4833/3200). Open 8:30pm-2am Mon. Tue-Sun from 9am.
LUNCH SPOTS
Lunch is one of those pleasurable experiences in Buenos Aires, very unrushed, very European with a lingering sensation. It is also the main meal of the day for most people so you can order inspiring main courses or lighter fare. Although all these places offer dinner, I felt the ambience was better at lunch. With a glass of wine and some optional sun on the terrace, there is no way to go wrong.
Lo de Jesús
I must confess. I love this place! Its cuteness and eye-catching exterior won me over from the get-go. On a quiet, typical Palermo Viejo corner, this grocery-store-cum-bar is painted a mesmerizing shade of turquoise, with retro-style windows hung with lace curtains. Inside, its checker board floor, imposing mahogany bar, old photos, soda water still served in fountain bottles, and chalkboards with the daily specials, create the feeling of another time. Now an upscale parrilla, it was born in 1953 by Jesus Pernas (Lo de Jesús in Spanish means Jesus’ Place). Good prosciutto, grilled provolone. Try the daily grilled fish like paraná or abadejo, or their tantalizing bife.
Gurruehaga 1406 with Cabrera, Palermo Viejo (4831/1961). Open 10am-2am, daily.
Social Paraíso
One of the original pavement blazers in Palermo Viejo, this comfortable, democratic, and cute bistro serves up honest, fresh flavors with a slight Mediterranean lilt to the young and old, funky and nerd, in and out. It is the quintessential lunch spot while cruising the art galleries or designer clothing stores, or perhaps a quite night out with your favorite date. Lunch menu is an excellent value.
Honduras 5182, b/t Thames and Uriarte, Palermo Viejo (4831/4556). Open 12:30-4pm, 8:30pm-midnight Tue-Sat; 12:30-4pm Sun.
Bar 6
One of the coolest hangouts, eating, and drinking spots in Palermo Viejo. The architecture rules here with a soft curved, Scandinavian-style ceiling made of natural wood, contrasted against concrete floors and walls. Coupled with their plush, comfy couches, what more could you want for chilling out with friends, a newspaper, Mojito, or one of their delicious daily specials. DJs make an appearance on the weekend with cool music.
Armenia 1676, b/t El Salvador and Honduras, Palermo Viejo (4833/6807). Open from 8am, Mon-Sat.
Bar Uriate
All you see from the street is the kitchen through a glass-plate window. Passers-by can stop to watch the chefs cook with the silence and concentration of Swiss watchmakers. Part of the trio including Sucre and Gran Bar Danzón, this eatery puts on a great lunch menu in well-designed digs in Palermo Viejo. Its menu is Mediterranean-influenced with delicious risottos and raviolis, or pizzas crisped to perfection in the adobe oven.
Uriarte 1572, b/t Honduras and Gorriti, Palermo Viejo. (4834/6004). Open noon-2:30am, daily.
Bo Bo
A stylish, low-key boutique hotel off a shady street in Palermo Viejo, the restaurant and hotel playing on the Bourgeois Bohemians, or Bobos (see David Brooks book, Bobos in Paradise: The New Upper Class and How They Got There, link: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0684853787/...). The menu is Modern Argentinean with a heavy dose of Italian influence (we had a delicious shrimp fettuccine). Service was skimpy but the comfortable booths and glass of wine made the wait tolerable.
Guatemala 4882, b/t Borges and Thames, Palermo Viejo (4774-0505). Open 8am-2am daily.
Bio
Give your digestive system a break from all the beef and enjoy a light lunch at this charming little lunch spot in a perfect location in Palermo Viejo. The vegetarian fare here is so good you won’t miss the meat. The menu changes frequently to represent what is seasonally available. Excellent gourmet soups, salads, and a variety of fresh juices available year-round.
Humboldt 2199, and Guatemala, Palermo Viejo (4774/3880). Open 10am-3pm Mon; 10am-1am Tue-Sun.
ETHNIC
Like all great cities of the world, and Buenos Aires is one of them, there is an ethnic offering of all the nationalities that have helped to mold and develop the gastronomy. Buenos Aires may be well known for its steak and pasta but venture beyond that to discover these tantalizing restaurants, especially if you live in an “ethnic food starved” city, like Santiago, Chile!
Bereber
Attacked with an unstoppable Moroccan food hankering while in Buenos Aires? Look no farther. This modern restaurant makes its own merguez (spicy lamb sausage), fluffy couscous, and a variety of steaming tagines. The tagines and other slow-cooked dishes make love to Argentina’s glorious meat. Although porteños are wimps with the spicy factor, a little side dosing of Harissa will light up your palate. If the weather permits, you can dine alfresco on the terrace.
Armenia 1886, b/t Costa Rica and Nicaragua, Palermo Viejo (4833/5662). Open 8pm-1am daily.
Sarkis
I love Levantine cuisine and was pysched to find it in BA. If you are wondering what cuisine this is, Levantine cuisine covers the Middle East at the eastern edge of the Mediterranean: Syria, Jordan, Lebanon and Egypt. If you have never tried it, do yourself a favor and get to this joint. Forget about the fluorescent lighting, elbow the locals to a table and order up dips, kebabs, eggplant and lamb dishes. You can make a meal out of the starters. Recommendable with a group as you can try lots more.
Thames 1101, and Jufre, Villa Crespo (4772/4911). Open noon-3pm, from 8pm daily.
Filo
This place was one of the first cool pizza joints back in the 90s in Buenos Aires. Its popularity continues strong, especially for pizza-worshippers. The food is straight-up modern Italian cuisine which also calls itself an “art restaurant” and bar. Try their creative salads, homemade al dente pastas, 100 kinds of crisp pizzas or paninis. To wash all that down there is a long list of champagne and drinks (including many imported whiskeys).
San Martin 975, b/t Marcelo T de Alvear and Paraguay, Retiro (4311/0312), Subte C San Martín. Open from noon daily.
Empire Thai
Doesn’t look like much from outside but this low-lit, Thai hole-in-the-wall serves up the gamut of curries (from tongue-numbing hot perfect for the Brit crowd to almost sweet for those spice phobic Argentineans). Great vodka martinis (choose your specific poison). Even if you are not in the mood to eat, it is a good place for a drink and a nibble. The satays were delicious.
Tres Sargentos 427, b/t San Martín and Reconquista (4312/6106). Subte C, Retiro. Open noon-1am Mon-Fri; 7pm-1am Sat.
Dashi
Sushi in Buenos Aires? Agreed that it isn’t the most natural association given that beef is king, however, if you have a craving for sushi, or Japanese food in general, this is your best bet. With vast windows in a prime spot in Palermo Viejo, you can sit in the gray and rose interior and nosh on stellar rolls and sashimi (fish selections are not as varied as in other parts of the world). Hot and non-fish/seafood dishes are also exquisite for the non sushi goers.
Fitz Roy 1613, and Gorriti, Palermo Viejo (4776/3500). Open 12:30-3pm, 8pm-1am Mon-Fri; 8pm-1am Sat.
Green Bamboo
Posed on a picturesque Palermo corner with lots of window-side tables, this place is decidedly oriental and somewhat elegant, but a couple key pieces of art, like the Ho Chi Minh warhol-esque painting and dangling pearl curtains, give it a funky feel. The food, Vietnamese style, is dead on. Do NOT miss the prawn rice paper rolls—delicate, aromatic, crisp, and crunchy, they hit all the taste buds in exactly the right way.
Costa Rica 5802, and Carranza, Palermo Viejo (4775/7050). Open 8:30pm-2:30am Daily.
Sudestada
This super swish, Pan-Asian restaurant oozes coolness from its strategically located Palermo Viejo corner. In minimalist digs, you can down delectable dishes from Laos, Thailand, Burma, and Vietnam (the chef’s home country). Once again, place your bets on the spring rolls for starters and the pork in spicy peanut sauce (warn any Argentineans accompanying you for fear of burning their palate). For dessert, make sure to leave room for their Vietnamese coffee.
Guatemala 5602, and Fitz Roy, Palermo Viejo (4776/3777). Open noon-3:30pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat.
Palitos
Belgrano is the epicenter for the boom in the Chinese immigration to Argentina. At this Taiwanese restaurant in the barrio chino, you can eat up specialties like sweet-and-sour chicken, eggs rolls, or even venison. The crowd is all ages and the lunch menu is astounding cheap (I won’t even tell you how much, go check it out!). Meander around the area after—it is full of Buddhist temples, Asian grocery stores, and tea houses. A fascinating voyage into one of Argentina’s fastest growing immigrant communities.
Arribeños 2243, b/t Mendoza and Olazabal, Belgrano (4786/8566). Open noon-4pm, 8pm-2am Tue-Sun.
PARRILLADAS & BODEGONES
Che, forget about the sushi, sophistication, and coolness for a while, these traditional restaurants, specializing in meat and pasta, offer food that most porteños can afford. It is not fancy but simple, honest food. Most of them are adorned with shrines of their favorite soccer teams, Carlos Gardel, ex-presidents and have whole hams or cheeses hanging from the ceiling. Many are a reflection of the owner’s heritage (Spain or Italy). They are full of local color and if want to eat on the cheap with the locals, here you go. Cabaña Las Lilas is the only exception.
Cabaña Las Lilas
This is the equivalent of Peter Luger’s steakhouse (New York) in Buenos Aires--being that it is the premier place to try a steak (although Happening just down the docks is a close second). With high prices to match, you can try Angus and Hereford steaks grilled to perfection in cuts like the succulent bife de chorizo. Sommeliers on staff can help you navigate the gargantuan wine list.
Alicia Moreau de Justo 516, b/t Corrientes and Perón, Puerto Madero. Subte B, LN Alem. Open noon-3:30pm; 7:30pm-midnight, daily.
Rodi Bar
This place is a bit of an oddity in Recoleta—first because of its price and lack of glamour. Straight out of Galicia (northwestern Spain), the menu is Spanish with traditional dishes like hake and octopus in the regional style. They also have great steak. The ambience is old world and friendly and makes for a casual but tasty lunch.
Vicente López 1900, and Ayacucho, Recoleta (4801/5230).
El Obrero
This is only for those willing to go on an adventure. It is hard to find and in a very rough-and-tumble area of La Boca (don’t even think about not going in a taxi). However, it has a buzz because the word is out: it is a museum of porteño (culinary) culture. The walls are a shrine to various soccer teams, the place is slowly falling apart (try to avoid the bathroom), but the locals and some occasional celebs pack in for the humongous heapings of Argentinean beef, sweetbreads, and morcilla, the blood sausage (which is delicious!). This is a classic popular (meaning “mass”) steak joint. It is best to go in a group and settle in for a looooong lunch or dinner.
Agustín Caffarena 64, y Pedro de Mendoza, La Boca (4362/9912).
El Desnivel
Right off the antique drag near the Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo, this is a decent stop to recharge your batteries while moseying in San Telmo (Sunday’s by 1pm, the place is a mob scene). It has good, noisy ambience, mediocre but cheap food, huge steaks manned from the grill at the entrance, and service is friendly and prompt. The clientele is a mix of tourists, locals, and expats. Try the grilled provolone but avoid the pastas (overcooked). Wines are nothing special so it is best to stick to cold beer.
Defensa 855, b/t Independencia and Estados Unidos, San Telmo (4300/9081), Subte C, Independencia.
Cafés
Just like in Paris, café culture is vital to Buenos Aires. Porteños meet at all times of the day to discuss politics, literature, soccer, catch up with old friends, read the paper, or smoke a Marlboro with an espresso. Join them to take a pause in the day, or simply observe Argentinean culture up close.
Tortoni
The quintessential Buenos Aires café. Opened in 1858, come here to soak up the traditional atmosphere and history where different literati and politicians have debated for more than a century over a strong double espresso. Although recent press has made Tortoni more a spot on the sightseeing circuit, go anyway. It is an important reference in understanding the importance of cafés and coffee in Argentina.
Avenida de Mayo 829, b/t Piedras and Tacuarí (4342/4328). Subte A, Piedras. Open 8am-3am, Mon-Sat; 9am-1am Sun.
Bar Plaza Dorrego
Right on the corner of Plaza Dorrego, this tanguero bar, serving beers and cocktails for more than a century. It screams nostalgia with dusty bottles, scribbling on the walls, picture frames of Carlos Gardel, and dim lighting. It is perhaps the perfect spot to spend an afternoon over a schopp and peanuts, checking out the rhythm of the antiques market.
Defensa 1098, and Humberto I (4361/0141). Open 8am-3am daily.
Mark’s Deli
Mark’s Deli for me is what coffeehouses were about back before the era of Starbucks and all the chains. Funny I found it in BA. It has a gringo feel to it and they serve lovely coffee drinks, especially Iced Coffee in the summertime, in addition to chilled lemonade, great chocolate chip cookies, and filling sandwiches. Easy to spot from far away; it is painted Crush orange.
El Salvador 4701, and Armenia (4832/6244). Open 8:30am-9:30pm, Mon-Sat; 10:30am-9pm Sun.
Osara
Yummmm…take a big whiff. Your senses will be soothed with the homey smells of freshly ground and brewed coffee and dark chocolate brownies. Kick back by one of the windows for a view of the street life and read a book or write in your journal. It is the perfect way to chill out for an hour—or two.
Borges 1730, b/t Russell and El Salvador. Open 10am-10pm Tue, Wed; 10am-11pm Thur; 10am Fri; from 2pm Sat; 2-10pm Sun.
Wine Shops
Calling all wine geeks and wine lovers. Do not miss your big chance in BA to stock up on Argentinean wine. There is so much more happening there than Malbec. Get to a couple of these wine stores to find out about the sparkling wine scene, the San Juan province, Malbecs of different styles, and of course, impossible-to-get bottles outside Argentina. I will be posting an article on Argentine wine in the next month.
La Finca
A required stop for all wine geeks interested in picking up some hard-to-find bottles from garage and boutique wineries in the Mendoza region. The shop itself is very cute and homey, with the owner, José Carlos Candisano, personally guiding clients to winning bottles. Here I picked up the fabulous Lagún, a totally different style of Malbec and Sangre de Toro (still in the cellar). They have coordinated wine tastings too for 6 or more people with tapas.
Costa Rica 4615, b/t Armenia and Gurruchaga (4832/3004). Open 11am-midnight daily.
Grand Cru
Very chichi and top notch wine store. You can find prized bottles here from all over the world. Prices match the sophistication.
Avenida Alvear 1718, b/t Callao and Rodríguez Peña, Recoleta (4816/3975). Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat.
Ligier
In Chile we have the Mundo del Vino, in Buenos Aires you have Ligier. Catering towards tourists, the shop attendants are a wealth of information in helping you pick out bottles in your style and price range from the different regions of Argentina.
Avenida Santa Fe 800, and Esmeralda, Retiro (4515/0126). Subte C, San Martin. Alternate location: Av. Callao 1111, and Santa Fe (4815/8100). www.ligier.com.ar
Winery
Ligier’s competition but with a more modern twist and different wine selection; particularly impressive was the sparkling wine from Mendoza. Some locations have wine bars and/or serve up yummy bites to try the wines.
Corrientes 302, and 25 de mayo, Microcentro (4394/2200). Open 9am-8pm Mon-Fri; 9am-2pm Sat. Other locations: Av. LN Alem 880, Retiro (4311/6607); Av. Del Libertador 5100 Belgrano (4774/1190); Av. Del Libertador 500, Retiro. www.winery.com.ar
Terroir
Make sure you leave the hotel with address in hand as the signage for Terroir is non-existent at best. Just ding the doorbell to come in. As with many exclusive shops, half the fun is being “in the know” to get there. But don’t worry, the owners are friendly and their fine wine selection from both Argentina and the rest of the world is impressive. They ship anywhere, including US addresses.
Buschiazzo 3040, b/t Seguí and Av. Del Libertador, Palermo (4778/3443). Open 10:30am-9pm Mon-Sat. www.terroir.com.ar
Hotel Picks
So many hotels in so many locations. I am partial to Barrio Norte in Recoleta near Santa Fe. It is a gorgeous, well-located area half way between the Microcentro and Retiro and Palermo Viejo. Lots of shopping on Santa Fe, manicure and massages, and Danzón and Milión are in this area. Art Hotel in my opinion, is BA’s best hotel deal ever. It is like staying in a boutique hotel in Paris, for a fraction of the price.
Art Hotel
Opened in March 2004, this old mansion, typical of the Recoleta area has been remodeled into 36 rooms with neo-industrial and designer chic. A very European (overwhelmingly French) vibe makes it popular with Europeans. The rooms are small but well equipped. The location and price are a great value.
Azcuénaga 1268, b/t Arenales and Beruti, Recoleta (4821/4744). www.arthotel.com.ar
Design Suites & Towers
Minimalist suites in a good location. Rooms are the white, steel, wood trio with lots of natural light. Certain suites can accommodate up to 4-5 people.
Marcel T de Alvear 1683, b/t Rodríguez Peña and Montevideo (4814/8700) www.designsuites.com
Hotel Bel Air
Another good choice in the Barrio Norte area is the Bel Air, off the charming Plaza Vicente López (note: this is gourmet heaven with lots of “goodie shops”, cheese, chocolate, teas, sweets, wine all within blocks). The hotel is from the 1920s and funky. It is also very popular. Book early.
Arenales 1462, b/t Uruguay and Paraná, Recoleta (4021/4000). www.hotelbelair.com.ar
Alvear Palace
This is the Shangra-La of Buenos Aires. Built in the 1930s and taking up a full half block, there are more Armani and Chanel spottings outside this hotel than anyplace else in the city. The rooms are opulent, decadent, elegant and come with Hermés bathroom toiletries. Service is impeccable—you can even hire a private butler. All of this, of course, for a price.
Avda. Alvear 1891, b/t Callao and Ayacucho, Recoleta (4808/2100) www.alvearpalace.com
LoiSuites
In the heart of Recoleta, this 100+ all-suite hotel is super chichi and contemporary. A splurge? Absolutely. The lobby is white and open, the garden charming, the rooms impeccable. Once again, book early. There are other LoiSuites in town, but this one is by far is the coolest and most popular one.
Vicente López 1955, b/t Junín and Ayacucho (5777/8950) www.loisuites.com.ar
Faena Hotel + Universe
I am debating if I even should include this, but as a Philippe Starcke admirer, I feel somewhat obligated. This is more than a hotel, this is an “experience”—maybe if David Lynch designed and produced a hotel! Supposedly the lastest, greatest, coolest, and most design hotel in BA, I personally found it to be all hype. I went to check it out and have dinner there. We didn’t order a martini. It is showy and posh, almost over the top but more to the point, it felt pretentious and the location stinks (you are in the boonies of Puerto Madero which means you are taxi-dependent. In fact, it felt more like the US suburbs more than BA). If you are going to spend that kind of money, personally I recommend the Alvear. Or if you want an international chain, Caesar Park or the Four Seasons.
Martha Salotti 445, Dique 2, Madero Este, Puerto Madero (4010/9000) www.faenaexperience.com
Bobo
Opened last year with only 7 rooms, this designer B&B in Palermo Viejo is affordable luxury. All the rooms have a different theme. A decent option if you want to mostly check out Palermo Viejo and its restaurants, shops, cafés, art galleries, etc.
Guatemala 4882, and Thames, Palermo Viejo (4774/0505) www.bobohotel.com)
Malabia House
Remodeled in 2004, this historic home in the heart of Palermo Viejo has been renovated into 15 rooms, all with their own décor. It has the warm feeling of a B&B where you can hang out in the living room or garden with the other cool people staying there. Privileged location in Palermo Viejo. You will never have to take a taxi anywhere to go out at night. I have found it to get pricier in the past year or so.
Malaba 1555, b/t Gorriti and Honduras, PalermoViejo (4833/2410) www.malabiahouse.com.ar
Che Lulu
This is the only budget recommendation but a good dato. Hidden in Palermo Viejo, Che Lulu is an old, renovated house (still a little rough around the edges) with a lot of personality. There’s an antique staircase, a roof terrace, patio, and lots of hip people to hang out with. Rooms are brightly painted with individual names. You can opt for private room with private bath or dorm room style. It falls somewhere between a hostel and B&B. It has been recommended for those on a budget or traveling alone as it is easy to meet traveling companions. Very homey.
Pasaje Emilio Zola 5185, b/t Justo Santa María de Oro and Godoy Cruz, Palermo Viejo (4772/0289) www.luluguesthouse.com
20:05 Posted in RESTAURANT RECS & REVIEWS | Permalink | Comments (5) | Trackbacks (0) | Email this
Thursday, November 03, 2005
Just Say No
It is 10:30 p.m. and only two of my 13 guests have arrived. The invitation stated 9:30 p.m. very clearly as the time that the party would start. Everyone invited RSVP-ed that they were coming. “So why are they all so late?”, I grumble to my boyfriend and two other friends who arrived on time. I look at my margarita glass nearly empty (again). At this rate, by the time the rest of the crowd rolls in, I will be wasted from just waiting for them to arrive.
Throwing dinner parties in Chile as an expat has been, quite frankly, hell. Not that I don’t actually enjoy the parties or the preparation but there are a few cultural factors that even after many years living here still are hard to swallow: unpunctuality, false acceptances of invitations, or worse, the endless bag of excuses of why someone couldn’t make it and never called. If committed in the US, these would be the ultimate social faux pas. The offending person would be blacklisted; ostracized; absolutely confronted about the absence. In Chile? People say nothing at best and let it pass off as no big deal. Well, I am tired of acting like it is no big deal. In fact, I have had it, the colmo, as we say in Spanish. Let’s go item by item to understand this veritable cultural phenomenon that has me perplexed and stressed when I want to have people over for dinner.
Unpunctuality. Latins in general are not exactly known for being “on time”. Chileans, however, tend to be far more punctual than others, although there does seem to be a superseding notion of lack of respect for the other person’s time and effort by arriving consistently at least 15 minutes late for everything. This manifests itself for appointments of all sorts, including business meetings, so imagine how it translates to the social scene. In Chile, for social engagements it is considered rude to actually arrive on time; even worse, early. The rule of thumb is to usually add 30 minutes to the time stated on the invitation. I now have adopted the habit of asking, half laughingly but totally serious, if the invitation is Gringo or Chilean time. The difference is huge. The night of the my Mexican dinner party, the rest of the guests did turn up—but not before 11p.m., the last one arriving at 12:30a.m., or three hours late. At no time did the phone ring with any one of them saying, “Hey, I am running late, I will be there in 30 minutes.” I was bowled over by their lack of timing and courtesy. I had cooked all day!
Another common happening in many dinner parties is people accepting invitations knowing very well that they cannot nor wish to attend. This baffles me beyond comprehension. As one Chilean friend explained to me (as I was in a rage), “Liz, people here do not want to hurt your feelings or create a conflict. They feel like you want to hear a yes, so it better to accept and then not come, rather than turn you down to your face.” Say what? Hmm... Somehow a polite no doesn’t seem to be nearly as rude as flat out not coming. From the stand point of the hostess, this rationalizing is ridiculous as obviously other people could have been invited who actually would have come. If there are any Chileans reading this, pleeeeasssse, just learn to say no. Really. It is infinitely more rude to accept and be a no-show than to be honest from the get-go. A lot of thought and planning go into a good party and if invited, it is because some truly wants you to come. Show some respect regardless of your answer. I know not all Chileans behave in this manner, but unfortunately, there are more than a few who do.
Finally, a subcategory of the above topic: people who accept and always have an “escape route”. What do I mean by this? They accept with some amount of a bona fide intention of attending but always have a well thought-out excuse ready if something better comes up. Dinner party commitment phobia? Maybe. In Chile, I have seen a pattern that these excuses are almost always sensitive issues, like family, personal, or health-related issues. Why? Think about it. It is difficult to reproach someone for not coming (nor calling to say they couldn’t make it). In my experience, it can even work against you if not handled expertly. You, yes you, will be cast as the insensitive bad guy because you didn’t ask nor act understanding of their situation and know it would have been an impossible feat for them to advise you of their absence. Of course emergencies happen. Everyone knows and understands that. However, when it happens 3, 4, or 10 times, it seems to be more than coincidental.
How do I now protect myself from these dinner party woes and still manage to have a good time? I am currently creating an “approved list” of friends and colleagues who are trustworthy and have proven their dinner acceptances. However, I still have some flaky friends that I enjoy seeing from time to time. I guess if I really want them to come, I have to take the calculated cultural risk and incorporate it into the planning. And worst case scenario? As in, everybody confirms and nobody comes? Well, to be truthful, that has never happened here. And if it does happen someday, after my initial rant, I probably will enjoy having all the leftovers for the next week.
02:50 Posted in RAMBLINGS | Permalink | Comments (4) | Trackbacks (0) | Email this
Wednesday, November 02, 2005
New Age Wines?
Alan York, Biodynamics master-extraordinaire looks in his mid-50s. He has thick, shiny, silver hair cut stylishly, framing his tanned and weathered face with tiny, piercing eyes. His voice sounds youthful with speech that is paused and thoughtful. There is something slightly hippie in the way he pronounces and lets the words roll off his tongue that makes me imagine him in 1970s California saying “Peace Out”. In actuality, he is a hippie. He is a wine hippie. He is bringing winemaking back to nature, or at least that’s what he’s trying to do.
Earlier this week, a select group of journalists and wine-related personalities in Chile were invited to the eastern end of the Aconcagua Valley, 1.5 hours north of Santiago, by Viña Errazuriz to check out the latest happenings of its premium icon wine, Seña, which has enlisted the help of Alan York in giving a total facelift to its winemaking philosophy. Here we got to tour the vineyard, meet Alan York, enjoy a swish picnic on top of the terraces with a fabulous view of the entire valley, and of course, try the famed Seña.
A Crash Course in Biodynamics
Biodynamics is often thought of as the first cousin of organic winemaking. Its name is derived from two Greek words: “bios”, meaning life, and “dynamic”, meaning it expresses energy. Its basic philosophy, as put by Mr. York, is “having a hand fit in a glove”. At a glance, Biodynamics seems to fall somewhere between hocus-pocus, black magic, niche marketing and a ritual and faith-based horticultural process. It was created in the 1920s by the Austrian Rudolph Steiner.
The overriding principal of Biodynamics is that each vineyard is a live being and has its own individuality. No doubt here we can jump into the on-going discussion on the authenticity of wines and that abused and over-used word, authentic. I am going to save that debate for later in the piece. For now, let’s give Biodynamics the benefit of the doubt. To rapidly paraphrase, based on the four elements (air, water, earth, fire), Biodynamics seeks to find balance and harmony for the vines in their natural environment, aligning agricultural practices with the cycles throughout the year and symbolic components such as the fertility of the cow and other herbs. The final objective is to create a wine that is the most natural and singular expression of the earth where the vines are grown, not unlike the A.O.C. in France, or the “Estate wines” in the New World. The vineyard must follow the strict agriculture rules set forth by the Demeter Association for 36 months in order to be certified as a Biodynamic vineyard (and wine).
During our visit, Mr. York explained and showed us a demonstration of Preparation 500, one of the various “rules” (or rituals, as I would call them) in Biodynamics. Preparation 500 prepares the soil to fertilize the vines. Basically, cow horns (of a female cow, which are considered “sacred” in Biodynamics) are filled with cow manure and buried curved-side downwards in the most fertile patch of soil on the property (in this case it was in a ravine/oasis) on the spring equinox. Okay, I will admit, I was suspicious at this point. Spring equinox? Sacred cow horns? Cow dung? It gets better. To prepare the fertile manure, which is dug up at the fall equinox, you must hollow out the cow horns and then stir the cow dung around in a vortex motion; that is, a rhythmic circular motion for an hour. This is then diluted with water and spread around the vines. Why a vortex? Well, this is how the energy of the universe circulates and creates matter so since the point here is to infuse energy (life force) and levity into the soil, this is considered key.
As I listened to Mr. York explain the different “preparations”, I got more and more skeptical; this seemed to border on an existential philosophy lecture in college. He spoke of polar sprays, life forces, cornucopias, expressions, energetic levels, all of these fine tune those little grapes to not need intervention in winemaking, supposedly harmonizing all the internal chemistry so as to not need yeast, sulphurs, etc. Hmmm... I will say that his passion and knowledge of the material was impressive but however, now a non-believer, I just couldn’t take it at face value. All I kept thinking was, “So how will this new, improved, Biodynamic Seña taste? What is Biodynamics really going to do to the wine? We there be a palatable difference? How do we know that is Biodynamics?” Good question(s).
The Debate on “Authentic” Wines
Before continuing, I want to interject this worthwhile topic on the debate surrounding “authentic” wines. It is quite relevant before I plunge into how this applies to Seña. This first run-in with Biodynamics definitely raised my eyebrows with suspicions as it rests more on the stars than on science. It also reinforced the undying presence of these buzz words “real”, “authentic”, “natural”, “hand made”, “traditional” that keep reappearing again and again in the wine world. So what does this “back to nature” call really mean? Wine is being “less” intervened than before? I read an interesting recent post by wine blogger, Huge Johnson, that sustains that if it wasn’t for man intervening in the winemaking process, all we would have is vinegar. That’s all nature makes. He asserts that these recent claims for authenticity are in part from demand from consumers wanting assurance as to where there wines are coming from and how they are made. This is also known as Marketing. These tendencies to “return to nature” didn’t really appear in the wine industry until the mega multinational wine companies began to emerge. He continues on in the article probing the “industrialization” of wine and what that means for the supposed magic and uniqueness (like the “art” and terroir concepts) of winemaking. It is a great worthwhile read; for full article continue here.
So are there any “authentic” wines out there? Yes, I think so. I find that they are usually the small producers. Those garage or small wineries that make their wines by hand; trying to define and express their terroir. It has just become blurry to define which are the ones that are purely well-marketed versus the ones that are truly well made. Remember, biodynamic wines don’t guarantee good wine, but they are always authentic I suppose. I am interested to see what the 360 degree spin in Seña’s winemaking philosophy will produce. It is a big gamble. The larger question though—is it quality or market driven? Or both?
Seña is leaving its Sign
For those of you not entirely familiar with Seña, let’s start with a little background on the winery and its wine. It is, after all, one of Chile’s finest. Seña in Spanish means a distinguished personal signature. It is considered the first “luxury” wine in Chile. Back in the 1980s, when Robert Mondavi paid a visit to Chile, he saw the potential for Chile to produce world class wines. Later, in 1995, Mondovi formed a partnership with Viña Errazuriz, one of Chile’s traditional, historic wineries, to make Seña as their “icon” wine. Last year, Mondavi cashed out after the huge Constellation Brands buy-out and Seña became full property of Errazuriz, under the leadership of Eduardo Chadwick.
The vineyards are located to the north of Santiago, in the Aconcagua Valley. In particular, Seña lies in a micro valley that gets a fair amount of fog, only 41 kilometers from the Pacific Ocean. This means that the temperatures are lower than other parts of the valley, allowing the grapes to mature fully but slowly. Although the original blend has been the three classic Bordeaux varieties: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Carmenere (which every Chilean winery wants a piece of), they are now planting Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and a miniscule amount of Syrah. The future final blends will depend on the harvest quality of each grape. During our visit, they were prepping the vineyard for planting and carving out some impressive terraces out of one of the hillsides. Seña has definitely invested time and effort in landscaping and having the vineyard meld into the natural landscape with beautiful espinos, yellow-flowered bushy-type trees, Poplar groves, small, gushing rivers, flowers, and curvy roads that show off their vines.
Now, all this being said, I want you to better understand the path that has led them to Biodynamics; or my impression based on this visit. Seña was hitched up for 10 years with Mondavi, which love Mondavi or not, their huge international recognition and legacy not only validate the brand, they also sell it. So what happens when you take them out of the picture? A scramble for identity. Seña suddenly needs to reassess its niche in the market; how to get to its market; how to position itself; how to distinguish itself from the steep competition in “world class” wines (Seña runs about US$100 per bottle, fyi). Basically, there is no more wine sugar daddy to fall back on. Therefore, it makes sense to a certain extent to start a new chapter. Go in a totally new direction. Define themselves, well Seña, as wine that is totally different and not dependent on the Mondavi association. Biodynamics is a tempting vehicle to realize this high goal. To me, it seemed somewhere between a genuine initiative, a leap of faith, a calculated gamble, and definitely a potential marketing ploy. I will give them credit, it’s ballsy. The stakes are high. This is their best. They are placing their bets that this is going to keep them flying higher and higher. Time will tell if Biodynamics pays the dividends they are expecting.
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Tuesday, November 01, 2005
Stratégie du Supermarché
I will admit that I am somewhat “under-studied” in French wines. The problem is, for as much as great wine as Chile produces, that is all we get here. Hence, a wine knowledge deficit is inevitably created. To combat this void, I decided to go to France for Vinexpo in Bordeaux this past June to bone up on the material. It was far from a crash course in French wines, it was a total overload of information and stimulation. After 5 days at Vinexpo, I was totally overwhelmed by the shear breadth of the A.O.C. and amount of wines, and my palate felt like it has run a marathon. For once in my life, I decided to accept I was lost and needed help so I let my French friends pick le vin, sat back, sipped, relaxed, and nodded with approval. This strategy worked brilliantly—until of course, I was left alone the day before leaving Paris. I had bought a couple “interesting wines in Bordeaux but I wanted to fill my carry-on to capacity—I had 7 wines to go. I was not going back to Chile until I had a full case.
Pressed for time, I had to fit my wine shopping into a 2-hour window. Since I was staying that particular day with friends near the Port D’Orleans metro in suburban Paris, I decided it was too far to make the trek to some specialty shops I knew in the 7th or 3rd arrondissements. I would just have to suffice with what the closest supermarket had stocked. A total gamble, I know. To improve my odds of scoring, I decided to establish some sort of buying strategy as I walked to the store. I was not looking for grand crus, but drinkable wines that average people in France drink on a weekly (or daily) basis. That would be easy, right? Make an educated guess based on some Chateau I had heard of, the region, and of course, if the label “talked” to me or not.
The store was akin to the French version of Walmart with the wines section occupying 10% of the whole floor space, or about 8 full aisles of wine. With the clock ticking, I tried not to freak out. Focus, focus! I first did a quick pass by to get a sense of how they organized their wines. This particular store had cleverly arranged everything by variety (whites, reds, rosés, champagne, dessert and fortified wines) and then subdivided them into regions. Since I was basically looking for a needle in the haystack, but no idea where or what the needle was, I decided to buy from all the different wine regions which focused on the reds that potentially interested me: Burgundy, Bordeaux, Rhone, Languedoc, Beaujolais. I was equally clueless as to what the average breaking point was for an average “okay” wine (in Chile it seems to hover around the US$10-12 mark). To error on the safe side, I decided to buy in the same range, but in euros. From there, I flat out guessed based on the label. At one point as I filled up my cart (now with a wine shopper’s high), I felt like I was picking wisely chosen lottery tickets. So did I find any winning numbers?
The results have been surprisingly decent, given the calculated gambling theory I applied. The first bottle we tried was in the presence of one of my good friends, a talented winemaker here in Chile. We were going to cook pumpkin risotto together so I chimed in that I would bring a bottle of the mystery Bordeaux blend I had bought. On the way over in the car, I started to doubt my own enthusiasm in sharing this wine with him (super refined palate), and then began playing out all the worst case scenarios in my head, which all basically reduced to the wine being a vinegar with sandpaper tannins. I prayed harder. My friend, who had lived in France for many years, had never heard of Chateau Bertrand, but he was quick to add that nobody could possibly keep track of all the chateaux. Nice try to calm my nerves; didn’t work. To keep me on pins and needles a little longer, he made a show decanting it. I can only say that when I brought the glass to my nose, not only was the smell okay (no apparent defects), it actually had a decent nose. I was slightly relieved. It was a dark, concentrated wine made from a blend of Carignan, Grenache, Syrah, and Mouvedre grapes. It had a toasty woodiness that reminded me of autumn (went well with the risotto) and the red berry fruit was quite balanced. The (winemaker’s) conclusion? Decent now; probably better a couple years from now. Live and learn, considering how I bought it.
Recently, I opened a bottle no. 2, a Beaujolais. I was totally unfamiliar with the Gamay grape other than it was a cousin of Pinot Noir and I knew I had to drink it cold, between 10 and 12 C. I had heard people rave about this wine in the summertime and its crispness and slinky body, even though it was a red wine. With summer approaching in Chile, I was in the mood for a light wine but not white and I was not willing to touch the Pinot Noir I brought back (yet). The occasion seemed perfect. The Beaujolais cru I bought, from Beaujolais-Villages, was from Honoré Lavigne, the Cuvée Spéciale. The wine was earthy and had a silky body style with easy-to-swallow in addition to mouthwatering berry fruit. Very simple but totally drinkable (as I write this post, I am killing the rest of the bottle). Lesson learned? Just goes to show that sometimes a shot in the dark can hit a target, when a miniscule ounce of logic is applied. And yes, now I do know how to read a French wine label.
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Viendo Verde (Revista Mujer, 30-10-05, Edición 1203)
por Liz Caskey
Ayayay. Las pobres verduras verdes. El espárrago, las habas, las arvejas, las bruselas, entre otras, parecen sufrir de la mala fama de ser responsable de más de una hinchazón inoportuna; un niño torturado en la mesa por no haberlas terminado de comer; cambiarle el sabor al vino; o gente con fobia de que “cualquier cosa verde” tiene mal sabor. En Chile, generalmente he encontrado que las verduras verdes, que abundan en todos los mercados en esta estación, están malentendidas. Abusadas por la sobrecocción. Si el verano es la madurez máxima de las verduras acariciadas por un sol caliente (piensen en tomates y choclos), entonces la primavera es su primera aparencia: delicadas, tiernas, dulces, jovenes. Por tanto, es necesario tratar ellas con mucho cuidado y cariño en su preparación para mantener su dulzor, textura, vitaminas y plentiud. Por favor, les ruego que no las sobre cuezan. ¡Merecen más respecto que eso! Aquí van un par de ideas como lucirlas:
Las habas: basta con un blanqueo rápido en agua herviendo por 4-5 minutos, luego sumergiéndolas en agua bien helada. Pelar las cáscaras exteriores (son amargas) para revelar la joya verde adentro. Aquí hay varias combinaciones de sabores pero sencillamente, rociadas con aceite de oliva de buena calidad, gotas de limón fresco, queso de oveja rallado, sal gruesa y pimienta fresca encima de pan tostado, es de otro mundo con un Sauvignon Blanc.
El espárrago: si van a cocerlos en agua, no más de unos minutos. Deben ser “al dente”. Mi recomendación personal para darles un sabor increíble es asarlos—sí, me escucharon bien. A-s-a-r-l-o-s. Mezclar asparagus con 1 cda. de aceite de oliva, sal gruesa y pimienta fresca. Cocer en horno caliente (200º C) o a la parrilla (perfecto para acompañar un asado), unos 10 minutos (5 minutos por lado), revolviendo para que su cocción sea uniforme. Se reducen hasta ponerse un poco crocante y dorados.
Este es el trato; por favor, No al maltrato de verduras verdes por aquí!
01:30 Posted in MUJER MAGAZINE-La Tercera Newspaper (Chile) | Permalink | Comments (0) | Trackbacks (0) | Email this