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Friday, March 24, 2006
Debunking the Chilean Seabass Myth
As of late when dining out in restaurants in and around Chile, I have come to notice (and am alarmed) that most menus do a horrendous translation job when it comes to accurately defining what Chilean Seabass is in English. For those readers traveling in Chile, please beware of the following misnomer to avoid major food disappointments and gross overcharging when your plate (or bill) arrives.
CORVINA: This indeed is a bass, but not a Chilean seabass. Try a regular old sea bass that swims around in most of the world's oceans. This is lovely, firm, white fish that works in ceviche, roasted, seared with just about everything. However, most restaurants translate this as Chilean Sea Bass (biggest culprits are those in Santiago restaurants frequented by foreigners or on the coast). Don't be fooled; the only reason this bass is Chilean is because it swims in national waters. For reference purposes, average price per kilo for fillet: 5,000-6,000 pesos (US$ 10-12)
MERO: The real deal, or the Chilean seabass we know as imported. Abroad, it can rake in US$40 per pound or even in Chile up to US$20 per pound as it is virtually all exported and few people in the local market will pay the outrageous prices it can garner abroad. Mero is actually Patagonian toothfish, a slimy, black, long fish with firm but oily meat (similar to Salmon but no Omegas here). 
Most mero in Chile comes frozen due to the long distances it travels from Antarctic waters and due to its high cost, is usually found in more expensive restaurants. Not to beat the environmental drum, it is worth mentioning that this species is under a fishing quarantine during much of the year as the population has been so depleted that it is in risk of extinction. For reference purposes, average price per kilo for fillet: 15,000 (US$ 30)
Personally, I would order the corvina. Or some other great local white, delicious fish like rollizo (Rockfish), robalo (Striped bass), congrio (Monkfish), merluza (Hake), vieja (Grouper) or heck, even the boring old reineta (flounder). Chile DOES have 6,000 kilometers of coastline after all.
Happy Fishing--or dining.
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Comments
Hi, found your website at Vinography. I agree that corvina is the better choice. "Mero" translates to "Grouper" in other parts of Latin America. I know that because I don't like it, so I make sure I don't order it.
I used to travel to Santiago years ago, I love Chilean seafood and my favorite restaurant was Aquí Está Coco.
Regarding Chilean wine, I find Casa Lapostolle Rapel Valley Cabernet Sauvignon a great value.
Posted by: Vladimir Dorta | Monday, April 10, 2006
Thanks for clarifying the name issue re: Chilean sea bass; given that the species is endangered and very slow to mature, it would be great if you could refrain from eating it. From National Geographic news:
Ten years ago, Chilean sea bass was virtually unknown in the United States, but since then the fish has become a staple on many upscale menus. Increasingly dire warnings suggest that the trendy toothfish has become too popular for its own good. Environmentalists warn that unless demand is reduced, the fish may face commercial extinction in as little as five years.
Steadily declining annual catches have signaled trouble, and led environmental groups to partner with some of the chefs who first popularized the dish in a campaign to reduce demand for the toothfish. The goal of the "Take a Pass on Chilean Sea Bass" campaign is to encourage chefs to remove the beleaguered fish from their menus until populations begin to recover from widespread and dangerous overfishing, most of which is done by illegal "pirate" fishing boats.
Chefs Agree to Stop Serving Toothfish
So far, more than 700 chefs nationwide have agreed to give the prehistoric-looking fish a break.
"Chefs are the opinion leaders of the food world," said Andrea Kavanagh, campaign manager for the National Environmental Trust (NET), which is spearheading the campaign. "We began with six cities, premier U.S. dining markets, and asked chefs to agree to stop serving the fish until populations began to recover. Now chefs in other cities are coming to us to sign up, and taking Chilean sea bass of their menus."
Restaurant sales account for some 70 percent of the Chilean sea bass consumed in the United States. Kavanagh also hopes, however, to involve consumers in the program and encourage them not to purchase the fish at their local markets.
By drastically reducing demand for the fish, the campaign hopes to curb the illegal fishing that threatens the survival of the species.
One chef who signed on to the campaign is Cesare Casella, of the acclaimed Tuscan restaurant Beppe in New York City's Flatiron district. "The chefs were responsible for creating a trend," said Casella, "but if we can stop the use of Chilean sea bass the demand will drop for the illegal fish.
"I started to use Chilean sea bass in 1992 or 1993 and it was a great fish, a beautiful fish," he continued. "In the last few years they have been getting smaller and smaller, while the quality is getting worse. Now, most of the Chilean sea bass on the market is illegal, and it has been frozen. I agree 100 percent with the campaign to improve the stocks of this fish for the future."
Posted by: Jeff | Sunday, April 16, 2006
Appreciate the clarification on Chilean Fish. WholeFood$ Markup in Philly had a Chilean promotion last weekend. The fish guy gave me a slice of corvina to try. Found it delicious but was unsure of it's true identity.
http://phillymarketcafe.blogspot.com/2008/02/surf-n-turf.html
Posted by: gaetano | Wednesday, February 27, 2008
Thanks for the clarification.
WholeFood$ Markup had a Chilean day and Corvina was offered. It was delectable but I was interested in the true identity.
http://phillymarketcafe.blogspot.com/2008/02/surf-n-turf.html
G
Posted by: Gaetano | Wednesday, February 27, 2008