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Tuesday, July 18, 2006
UPDATE: THE SANTIAGO RESTAURANT & BAR SCENE (2006)
UPDATE: THE SANTIAGO RESTAURANT & BAR SCENE (2006)
BarsAs of late, I have been frequenting bars more than restaurants since I am more into a hip scene and less formality. There usually are some tasty nibbles to accompany the drinks and let’s face it, a good cocktail is always welcome. Salud!
Bar Yellow General Flores 47, Providencia (off Providencia to the north between Santa Beatriz and Manuel Montt), Metro: Manuel Montt
Bar Yellow is Santiago’s first cocktail bar. The bar, yellow and backlit, occupies 40+% of the premises and asks to be invaded by patrons (there are tables too). A very hip vibe, partially imparted by its English and Finnish Owners (Kirk and Marja Winstanley) where good taste in all senses rules. In addition to lots of delicious drinks perfectly mixed, there is an outstanding list of imported beers, spirits, and boutique wineries and lick-your-plate-great food. To start, get going with the Moscow Mule, a delicious concoction of vodka, ginger ale, and key lime; follow it up with a round of the Cuban martinis, a vodka-based martini which takes it inspiration from the mint in the Mojito with a fizzy touch of champagne on the top; or the most tongue-dazzling option, a raspberry-chili vodkatini. The drinks list is arranged according to the “mood” (from fizzy to refreshing) and the scrumptious bar food is bold and creative. Refined tasty classics like Double-fried French fries with spicy ketchup and horseradish sour cream; Thai green mussels; grilled meatloaf sandwich; grilled Portobello mushrooms on rosemary skewers; crispy celeriac pancakes with green apple-red onion-rosemary compote; homemade pâté with dried apricot chutney, and divine ice creams with flavors from saffron to lavender-honey complete the picture. If drinking is not your thing, don’t fret—they do a good, bistro-style lunch.
Catedral José Miguel de la Barra corner of Merced, Bellas Artes, Santiago Centro, Metro: Bellas Artes, 664-3048 www.operacatedral.cl
Located on the second floor of a quintessential 1950s corner of the oh-so-hip Bellas Artes area of the city (Santiago’s version of SoHo), this is the BAR right now to hang out at. It’s sleek and understated with rockin’ music and a “to be seen” crowd. Word to the wise: get there early. Most nights it is a mob scene by 9p.m. with waits for a table or even a coveted spot at the bar over an hour. The vodkatinis and mojitos are delicious; as is the crudo, a local version of steak tartar—filet finely chopped with shallots, capers, and lemon juice, add a touch of grainy French mustard and premium olive oil. Definitely a must while in town.
Patagonia Lastarria corner of Pedro Luis Valdivia, Bellas Artes/Lastarria, Metro: Universidad CatólicaGreat new addition to the Bellas Artes/Lastarria neighborhood. Patagonia is laid back and doesn’t try to be anything other than what it is: a good café in the charming surroundings of the cobblestone 19th-century Lastarria Street. Warm and inviting in the winter, this is a perfect post-movie date (right across from the retro movie theater) for a coffee or beer and light bite; or on a sunny, Sunday afternoon, the ideal location for an al fresco lunch, reading the paper over a cappuccino, people watching, and maybe catching a ray or two.
LTS Compañía corner of Maturana (on Plaza Brasil), Barrio Brasil, Metro: Cumming
LTS stands in Spanish for “litros de cerveza”, or liters of beer. That would about sum it up at this cute watering hole on the corner of the Bohemian Plaza Brasil. Each Formica booth has its own tap (minimum of 4-5 liters per booth so it is best to come with a couple friends) where you can try Chilean beers like Escudo, Cristal or maybe even some of the nice Patagonian lagers like Austral. Popcorn is complimentary and other drinks and unimaginative bar snacks are available. Young crowd, especially after university classes let out nearby.
Capital Federal l Bosque Norte 083, corner of Roger de Flor, El Golf, Las Condes, 232-1913, Metro: Tobalaba
Deriving its name from the capital of Argentina (Buenos Aires, which is referred to in-country as el Capital Federal), this barcito brings some necessary nightlife to El Golf sector, which is proliferated by restaurants but lacks major in the bar scene. Modern lines with simple yet good taste (all white, nice wine glasses), very Argentinean (read: Italian-esque) with good drinks and happy hour. In the summer, very delicious watermelon martinis or green apple martinis any time of the year. A good pit stop if you are staying in that area of town and don’t feel like going home after dinner—or need a place to kick-start your evening.
Park Club Piso 17 (Hotel Plaza Bosque) Ebro 2828, 17th Floor, corner of El Bosque Norte, El Golf, Las Condes, 498-1800, Metro: Tobalaba
This rooftop bar surely must have a name but I can never seem to remember it. This won hands-down as the bar for the summer of 2006 rating their happy hour (2x1 under 10p.m., average drink price around US$6 from mojitos to martinis) and the incredible view. Located on the 20th floor of the hotel, the bar looks south towards the towering Andes and Providencia area of the city. In the summer, you can sit on the terrace and watch the sun go down sipping your favorite poison. Careful though, happy hour starts early and ends late—and in good company with a view, that can be dangerous. Good news is that there are many taxis below on El Bosque waiting to whisk you home.
Per Piacere Catedral 2201, corner of Maturana, Barrio Brasil, 671-5217, Metro: Cumming
A relatively new “wine” bar in Barrio Brasil (although ironically I wasn’t bowled over by the wine selection), this is a funky, eclectic haunt which could conform part of a barrio bar tour. Simple, honest, with a cure interior, the vodka tonics we had were decent and the champiñones al pilpil, button mushrooms sautéed in butter, garlic, and chili, were the perfect compliment to drinks.
Boulevard Lavaud, Peluquería Francesa Compañía de Jesús 2789, corner of Libertad, Barrio Yungay, 682-5243, Metro: Cumming or Quinta Normal
Also part of the Barrio Brasil-Yungay area, this is one of the oldest businesses in the sector with over 100 years of history. Recently remodeled by the family, during the day the front part is still an old-time barber shop where local patrons have their beards shaved and hair cut. In the back is a cute but dark coffee shop. On the second floor is an antique cool bar/lounge which gets packed on the weekends. The food is purely a second thought here—the idea is to go out, hang out, and enjoy some mixed drinks in historic surroundings. A perfect ending to a bar tour in the area. Note: if going at night please go in a taxi. The metro is quite far and streets tend to be deserted and dark in certain pockets.
Restaurants
A whole line-up of new restaurants has appeared in the past few months since I first wrote up my Santiago restaurant reviews. These places, armed with cool décor, tend to focus on what I qualify as molecular or “confusion” cuisine (which seems to be somewhat passé on my last trip to the States). There are some very original dishes and fun spots, but I am still holding out (and terribly missing) those old school ethnic and comfort haunts—you know the dives we all love for authentic Thai, Indian, Vietnamese, Malaysian, Mexican, etc. and of course, my favorite diner.
C Monseñor Escrivá de Balaguer 5970, Vitacura, 355-6900, www.crestaurant.cl
Ex-chef and owner of the posh Agua, Christopher Carpentier, has headed further east (read: more chichi burbs) to open his new swanky bistro, “C” named after what else? His own initials. Almost on the border of being urban pretentious, a given because of its zip code, the place excels in its masculine minimalist interior design with warm coffee-toned masculine colors. And the food? C’s chef has great style and a knack for taking local primary ingredients and giving them a modern twist like, for example, the seared filet mignon with olive purée and crispy-soft tempura leeks. Pure lovin’.Emilio Monseñor Escrivá de Balaguer 5970, Vitacura, 355-6910, www.restaurantemilio.cl
Emilio Peschiera could be coined as the Peruvian Food Embassador in Chile. Owner of the successful El Otro Sitio, he opened up the Chilean palate to the wonders of Peruvian cuisine; a delicate, refined and spicy cuisine that has since infiltrated the national gastronomy. This new restaurant is a bit of a hybrid, combining his upbringing in Peru, his studies in England, and many years spent in Chile. The result is some very delicious and interesting dishes with refined technique and simple but intense flavors that make you go “oooohhh”--for example the roasted lamb on soft mascarpone polenta with herbs springs to mind. The place itself is upbeat with an imposing bar (4 stories high) and a classic-modern look that radiates its swish surroundings (its neighbor is the C restaurant). Recently inaugurated, this promises to be one of Santiago’s new gastronomic institutions. Definitely worth the hike.
Amorío Constitución 183, Bellavista, 777-1454, www.amorio.cl
Funky, funky, funky. Part of the Mori Cultural Center in Bellavista (and note, across the street from one of my favorite watering holes, Etniko), the restaurant is part of a totally “recycled” old mansion. With its lovely all-white terrace, antique chairs, polished parquet floors, and exposed bricks, the vibe is cosmopolitan and very cool. You can try the menu under the command of Agua’s ex sous-chef, Juan Manuel Tagle, or chill out in the second floor lounge with a drink and pick-ats. Hip, laid back, very fun, and one of the hottest places right now, it has thankfully brought back some winds of new to Bellavista.
Sukalde Av. Bilbao 460, Providencia, 665-1017
The buzz going around about this restaurant is “(de)constructivist”, “vanguard”, “our little Ferran Adriá”. It is the place of the moment in Santiago’s dining scene and to get a reservation, put your speed dial on and let it go to work. The charm comes from the young chef Matías Palomo who has put together a deconstructed style of cuisine through years of working and traveling. Simple, young, modern, and very, very small, for us “gringos” , it probably won’t seem as avant-garde as it did for the locals but there are some clever food tricks like making caviar out of soy or foamy things that look cool on the plate (but lacking consistency in the mouth). The menu is quite small and thus easy to navigate. Go with an adventurous mind—and a reservation, please.
Asian Bistro Parque Arauco Boulevard, Las Condes
The basic concept: get Chileans to eat more REAL Asian food. Mission impossible? Maybe—or maybe not now that Asian Bistro is about to open. I must admit, I was and still am dubious given the locale—a mall, Parque Arauco—located in the area that us expats jokingly refer to as Santiago’s “Tyson’s Corners”. However given the owners’ track record, owner of the Palacio Danubio Azul, it could work for mass consumption. The concept is to bring Thai, Chinese, and Japanese food under one roof for a high-density space. Could be an option those heavy shopping days when you need to eat without leaving the mall or for those staying at the Hyatt, a non-hotel option within walking distance. Will keep you posted as to its gastronomic developments.
Senso Hyatt Santiago, Avda. Kennedy 4601, 950-3145, www.santiago.hyatt.com
Part of the opulent Hyatt Santiago in the eastern suburb of Las Condes, the new Senso showcases regional Italian cuisine—specifically from Parma, Bologna, and Modena. It is a new concept in Santiago; that is regional Italian food, under the command of the Italian chef Roberto Illari. Its specialties are homemade pastas and revisited and refined classics using pork, fish, and seafood. The best part: real Parmiaggiano Reggiano and Balsamic vinegar in addition to a subdued interior and good wine list with some Italian varieties. Don’t miss the king crab cannelloni—delicious with a chilled Amayna Chardonnay.
Puerto Fuy Nueva Costanera 3969, Vitacura, 208-8908
Everyone here, from your hotel concierge to the newspaper Food Critic, has declared Puerto Fuy the new swanky “IT” restaurant, located in the area of Vitacura known as Santiago’s “Rodeo Drive”, the Nueva Costanera. Puerto Fuy is particularly applauded and geared at an upscale clientele who enjoys being seen and trying some molecular cuisine in that ambience. The surroundings are swanky (with a fitting price tag) and this science experiment-come-food menu does offer some unique specialties like their Sea Urchin foam, and some playful dishes with liquid nitrogen cartridges that turn, for instance, your innocent OJ into a frothy orange sorbet. While there are some interesting and innovative flavor combinations to be found in these swish surroundings, my personal post-dinner sensation ironically left me craving real comfort food--not a deconstructed macaroni and cheese.
Opera José Miguel de la Barra corner of Merced, Bellas Artes, Santiago Centro, Metro: Bellas Artes, 664-3048 www.operacatedral.cl
Located on the street level below Catedral, this sophisticated spot exudes style and good taste. Mostly French in its orientation, the dishes are fabulous like delicate Foie Gras Terrine, or Roasted Rack of Lamb or a Cherry Clafouti for dessert. The huge glass windows from floor to ceiling and Roman shades made of crude-colored linen let the light in and street life (the “natural” art work) in. A perfect stop for a post-opera dinner at the Municipal Theater only blocks away, or an intimate dinner. Whatever the occasion, reserve well ahead of time—it is usually hard to get a table.
Zully
Plaza Concha y Toro 34 (coming off the Alameda between Brasil and Maturana; or if driving, between Erasmo Escala and Maturana), Santiago Centro, 696-3990, Metro: Republica
A converted mansion on one of Santiago Centro’s architectural jewels, Plaza Concha y Toro, Zully transports you to another époque—on the outside at least. Inside the turn-of-the-century 20-room home-turned-restaurant, the expert “recycling” job renewed the high ceilings and ornate molding, stunning patterned parquet floors, and added some precise halogen lighting and bright art work for an eclectic vibe. The food from the “international” menu, spanning several continents and tamed for the Chilean palate, can be hit or miss as can be the service at times but generally speaking the cool environs, comprehensive wine list, and a chance to dine in a piece of Santiago’s social history make it worth a go. Especially in the summer, the roof-top Roman terrace complete with pillars offers sweeping views of the city—perfect for sipping your ice cold Pisco Sour and knocking back some shrimp gyosas.22:35 Posted in RESTAURANT RECS & REVIEWS | Permalink | Email this