EAT WINE

by Liz Caskey (unedited version)

In Mendoza, it seems that all roads lead to a winery given that more than 70% of all wine production in Argentina is concentrated here. Mendoza’s wine scene is booming and has come into its own by blending viticulture tourism with the unique landscapes of vines and the impressive Andes Mountain Range. In a relatively compact space, spanning the city and countryside, wine lovers can taste these inspiring wines alongside the casks, learn about the excellent terroir (climate and soil) of the area that produces these prized grapes, and pamper themselves with great food, spa treatments and luxurious hotels. Sounds like wine paradise? It is. Here are some recommendations to make the most out of a few days in Mendoza wine country.

Day 1: Much of the wine action is centered in the area known as Luján de Cuyo, about 20-30 minutes south of Mendoza city. A good way to get the tour underway is to head to the highly acclaimed Achaval Ferrer, a winery only producing high-quality red wines in limited volumes with their Malbecs from different single vineyards garnering up to 95 points by Wine Spectator with its winery located on the banks of the Rio Mendoza. Afterwards, drive north towards the charming, tree-lined suburb of Chacras de Coria to Altavista, a product of Franco-Argentine cultural fusion, where their “terroir-focused” philosophy makes Grand Crus in the traditional way of Bordeaux . A great lunch break is at the modern and chic La Bourgogne , part of the Carlos Pulenta Winery, where refined technique and local ingredients with some of the winery’s “cortes”, or assemblages can be inspiring. After lunch, stop next door at Fabre Montmayou, where French know-how is combined with Mendocino soil to produce terroir expression wines. If possible, try Le Gran Vin, one of the classic references in Argentinean wine. For the rest of the afternoon, kick your feet back at the Park Hyatt and treat yourself to one of their spa treatments or famous Thai massage.  Dine at Francis Mallman 1884, part of the Escorihuela winery and considered to be one of Mendoza’s landmark restaurants with a selection of grilled meats and homemade pasta, and a wine list the size of a dictionary (*).

Day 2: There is much more to the Mendoza wine scene than only Malbecs, and a festive way to get the day off to a start is at Chandon, the leader in sparkling wines in Argentina . A direct subsidiary since 1959 of Moet & Chandon in Champagne , France , take the tour to learn how both mass quantities and more boutique sparkling wine (elaborated in the traditional champenoise method) are made. It is worth the weight in your suitcase to bring back a bottle of the Baron B Unique. Just down a country road dotted with poplar trees is the well known Catena Zapata winery, founded by Nicolas Zapata, a Malbec pioneer and one of the first wineries to put Argentina on the international export map. Apart from its prized wines and stunning view of the Andes , the winery dazzles the visitor with its singular architecture—a Mayan pyramid. For a total departure from wine, head east for a luncheon at Almacen del Sur, a foodie’s dream. With its own organic farm and orchard, this gourmet delicatessen produces its own delicacies like sun dried Roma tomatoes, green tomato chutney, roasted piquillo peppers, rose petal preserves, Malbec jam, among others. If you can spare the time (and space in your stomach), their 5 course lunch is a culinary odyssey showing off the homemade products. Finally, Norton, one of Argentina ’s solid large benchmark wineries (owned by the Austrian Swarovski family) is worth a visit to get a sense of one of the country’s larger players—Argentineans after all consume 39 liters of wine per year!  In the evening, hang out at the adorable Club Tapiz, a boutique hotel located in a historic estate dating back to 1890 surrounded by vineyards and enthralling. For a low key dinner, try their cozy restaurant, Terruño, where the tender “chivo”, or roasted goat, is succulent.

Day 3: Although 50 miles to the south, the Uco Valley definitely merits a “wine detour” as it is the land of coveted terroir with enthralling views of the Andes from every angle. Here many of the winery heavyweights and foreign investments are concentrated because of one reason: the perfect soil and climate, which is cooler than its sister wineries to the north. A good point to being at is with the tour at O. Fournier, located in La Consulta, where bush vines are planted at over 1,200 meters altitude. Given O. Fournier’s Spanish roots, it is natural that they have specialized in producing excellent tempranillo in addition to world class blends like A Crux and B Crux. The facilities are unique—an ultra modern winery which imposes on the horizon and slated for 2007, a luxury hotel.  Continue northeast through country back roads to the feet of the towering snow covered Andes in an area known as Vista Flores. Stop for a visit at Monteviejo or Flecha de los Andes , two of the wineries in the prestigious Clos de los Siete that grow high altitude Malbec and some Chardonnay. Apart from a jaw dropping view, the wines are impressive with old world elegance. Recommended for lunch, only 10 minutes down the road, is one of the classic eateries in valley known as the Posada del Jamón, specializing in home cured Serrano Ham, salami, and other cuts of pork. Humongous portions, reasonable prices, and a well crafted wine list make this rustic haunt a gem. After lunch, one last stop at Lurton, the investment of Bordeaux brother Jacques y Francois Lurton is worth the effort. If the cellar master is on hand, you may be fortunate enough for tastings straight from the tanks or barrels of some of their excellent wines, including the Pinot Gris. Back in Luján de Cuyo, check-in to the luxurious and swish Cavas Wine Lodge with its individual designer cabañas in the middle of the vineyards with impeccable taste. Sip your Baron B and watch the sun set over the Andes from your private rooftop terrace, or have a wine spa treatment, and then dig in to some modern cuisine at the hotel restaurant with local wines from the Cavas cellar.

Wineries:

Achaval Ferrer, www.achaval-ferrer.com, 54 261 498 4874

Altavista, www.altavistawines.com, 54 261 496 4684

Fabre Montmayou, export@bodegasdomvistalba.com.ar, 54 261 498 2330

Chandon, www.chandon.com.ar, 54 261 490 9900 / 06

Catena Zapata, www.catenawines.com, 54 261 490 0214

Norton, www.norton.com.ar, 54 261 490 9700

O. Fournier, www.ofournier.com, 56 262 245 1579 / 088 / 598

Monteviejo, www.monteviejo.com, 56 262 242 2054

Lurton, www.jflurton.com, 54 262 249067 / 78

Where to sleep:

Park Hyatt

www.mendoza.park.hyatt.com

54 261 441 1234

Cavas Wine Lodge

www.cavaswinelodge.com

54 261 410 6927/28

Club Tapiz

www.fincaspatagonias.com / www.newage-hotels.com

Where to dine:

La Bourgogne

www.carlospulentawines.com

54 261 498 9421

Francis Mallman 1884

54 261 424 2698

(*) Fair is fair, our last meals at Mallman have been very lackluster (not the case when this article was turned in in March). We are now recommending Francesco as an alternative, or Las Negras for the young, very hip, and in search of creative cuisine. 

Terruño

clubtapiz@tapiz.com.ar

54 261 496 3433

Almacen del Sur

www.almacendelsur.com

54 261 410 6597

Posada del Jamón

www.laposadadeljamon.com.ar

56 262 249 2053

Specialized wine tours in Mendoza:

For custom made, luxury wine tours with a special touch contact:

Liz Caskey -Culinary and Wine Tours,  www.lizcaskey.com

By Liz Caskey

This text was written this text for the Sunday Travel section of the La Tercera newspaper on February 26, 2006 (translated here from Spanish) as part of a large calendar of wine-related parties and activities in the many valleys surrounding Santiago. Harvest is underway here and fall is in the air with cooler nights and the leaves slowly turning. For all in the Northern hemisphere challenged by the concept of harvest in the North American spring, add 6 months to the calendar month (September). Time will tell how this harvest goes and most importantly, behaves in the bottle. Feliz Vendimia 2006!

In the Chilean wine world right now, the million-dollar question could very well be, "When to harvest?" or "How will the harvest be?". So many variables, so many valleys, so many expectations. Every harvest is a well-calculated gamble, picking in the precise moment to create that perfect wine. Harvest is a delicate balance of science, intuition, alquimy, and a lot of hard work to collect and bring those little grape clusters in pristine condition to the fermentation tanks.  

All the valleys and wineries here follow their own picking calendar and in fact, vendimia, as we call it here in Chile, has already begun in different wine-growing areas and will extend through April, including Mayo. In the hotter valleys like Colchagua where white grapes usually are not grown due to the high temperatures, those that have resisted are promptly being harvested to avoid being cooked under the relentless UV rays of the Chilean sun or quickly become raisins. However, in their northern colder counterparts like the Casablanca and San Antonio valley, or even the Bío Bío region far to the south, many grapes are still clinging on, waiting for their optimum maturity several more weeks. Generally speaking, after the harvesting of the whites, in very specific zones (usually near the coast), it is time for the "fussy" harvest: Pinot Noir. Mainly cultivated in Chile near the cool Pacific coast like Casablanca and San Antonio, the fame of this ruby Pinot is its tempermental character that is never the same from one harvest to the next. Known as the most challenging grape to "tame", to produce a good Pinot is quite like no other feat.

After the Pinot harvest in Chile the reds start at full speed, first with Merlot in late March-April. The King, Cabernet Sauvignon, the potent and full Syrah, and smoky, silky Carmenere follow needing more time on the vine to ripen until the last possible momento to develop their thick skin and sugar content. For some valleys, they may harvest as late as mid-May.  What is certain is that it is a race to harvest with the perfect degree of ripenness always running the risk that the climate will be fickle and those first fall rains will come too soon. In this early portion of the harvest season, all the attention tends to be showered on the vendimia with local celebrations and parties in the principal towns in the wine growing areas. Careful though, although the parties are a blast, vendimia is not just a party that lasts a weekend; it is a tradition initiated centuries ago by the Greeks celebrating Bacchus, the god of wine. This time of the year is when the fruits of the wine are collected and the preceeding year captured in the grapes themselves: the land, the labor, the care, the affection, the human touch, all of that history is put into a bottle and known as "wine". Please, we have the privilege to live in Chile, a country that produces excellent wine so please get out there and visit the vineyards that are so close and get to know this beautiful story and life of wine that is more profound than anything in your cup drinking at the stands. The spirit of harvest season is moving--and yes, it tastes good too. Salud!

Por Liz Caskey

La sofisticación sútil de un bistro para probar una mano tradicional, o quizás moderna, de los clásicos franceses como entrecote o terrine. El ruido, humo y encanto de los brasseries con buenos amigos y conversación hasta tarde. Los restaurants del “momento” de alto diseño y nuevos conceptos de los chefs más cotizados como Joël Rebouchon. La elegancia de los restaurantes de haute cuisine, premiados con estrellas de Michelin y seguidos por devotos gastronómicos. Un domingo relejado en alguna plaza o terraza, disfrutando un brunch Parisino entre amigos o familia, con o sin la Torre Eiffel en el fondo. Los aromas sensuales y seductores de tierras lejanas de las ex-colonias francesas, llegando en un vapor a su mesa: tagine marroquí; o amok Cambodiano; o un maffé africano de Senegal. Esta es una pequeña muestra del escenario culinario de Paris. En una ciudad manejada completamente por su paladar no es de extrañar que muchos llamen a la capital francesa la “Mecca” de la cocina. Lo es. Descubrir la cuidad por su gastronomía es un vehículo delicioso para acercarse a la idiosincrasia, la cultura y entender mejor lo que hace girar a esta ciudad.       

Paris es una cuidad cosmopolita hecha de un abánico de villas, llamadas arrondissements. Cada uno tiene su propio sabor y estilo. Para explorarlos, basta con salir a pasear sus calles encantadoras mirando las vitrinas preciosas y parando a tomar un café en la esquina. Si se enamoran de algun barrio (que es muy probable) vaguen más tiempo en sus tiendas, sus boulangeries, sus ferias, sus bistros—esto es el Paris de los Parisinos—la riqueza de su vida diaria y alguna explicación de la profunidad de su relación con la gastronomía. Sólo sigan su olfato (literalmente) a donde hay gente local. Ahora, dicho esto, París sí es una ciudad con miles de direcciones y datos gastronómicos donde todos tienen sus favoritos. Este guía son algunas recomendaciones para sacarle el provecho culinario a su visita. En Paris, si exploran por bastante tiempo es posible que puedan descubrir esto sólos—pero, ¿por qué arriesgarse? Bon Appetit.

Restaurantes
En París es recomendable hacer reservas con bastante anticipación en cualquier restaurante menos los más sencillos (como creperías o cafés). Para los restaurants de haute cuisine, las reservas deben estar hechas previamente al viaje para asegurarse de su mesa. En los lugares que no aceptan reservas y son muy populares, es aconsejable llegar temprano.

Aux Lyonnais: Un retro bistro de 1890 rescatado por el chef Alain Ducasse, defensor de la tradición culinaria francesa. El menú abarca la cocina regional clásica de Lyon con platos como lechón con foie gras o quenelles con camarones de río. 32 Rue St-Marc, 2º (01-42-96-65-04), Metro: Bourse, 12:00-14:00 y 19:30 a 23:00 Martes a Viernes; 19:30 a 23:00 Sábado.  Precio Promedio: €23-30. Menú Prix fixe: €28.

Chez Michel: Cerca al Gare du Nord enfoca en la cocina regional de la Britania en las manos de un maestro moderno. Las entradas son espectaculares y los postres—dejen espacio. 10 Rue de Belzunce, 10º (01-44-53-06-20), Metro: Gare du Nord, Martes a Viernes 12:00-14:00 y 19:00-00:00. Precio Promedio: €23-30.

Chez Omar: Este restaurant nor-africano no acepta reservas y después de las 9pm, la cola es l-a-r-g-a. Todos están esperando lo mismo: couscous  y merguez (chorizo marroqui) increíble. 47 Rue de Bretagne, 3^o, (01-42-72-36-26), Metro: Temple, 12:00-14:30 y 19:00-23:30 Martes a Sábado; 12:30-16:00 Domingo. Precio Promedio: €20-25.
 
Creperie du Cluny: Una crepería tradicional para crepas que derriten-en-su-boca, saladas y dulces. Prueben la cidra de manzana, un clásico con las crepas. Muy económico y para todos. 20 Rue de la Harpe, 5o (01-43-26-08-38), Metro: St-Michel.  Precio Promedio: €10.
 
Georges: En la terraza del Museu Pompidou, es este restaurant muy “top” con decoración minimalista de Philippe Starck y una vista panorámica de todo París. En la noche sus monumentos brillan como estrellas. La comida es puramente un detalle. Place Georges Pompidou, 19 Rue Beaubourg, 4º (01-44-78-47-99) Metro: Châtelet o Rambateau, Miércoles a Lunes 12:00-02:00. Cerrado Martes. Precio Promedio Cena: €30+. Trago y picoteo: €20.

L’Atelier de Joël Rebouchon: El chef experto con su concepto nuevo: “Coffee Shop” neoyorquino se fusiona con bar de tapas de alta gastronomía. Los resultados son un manjar y ha vuelta una Mecca para los foodies. No aceptan reservas—lleguen temprano. 5 rue de Montalembert, 7 ^o(01-42-22-56-56), Metro:Rue de Bac, 11:30-15:00 y 18:30-00:00 Todos los días. Precio Promedio Cena: €55.

Le Pré Verre: Un popular bistro-à-vins con comida sensacional que cambia diariamente en la pisarra como su ravioli casero de escargot en una reducción de pernod. Mejores noticias: precios muy razonables. 8 Rue Thénard, 5 ^o, (01-43-54-59-47), Metro: Maubert-Mutualité, 12:00-14:00 y 19:30-22:30 Martes a Sábado.  Precio Promedio (Cena): €24. Menú Almuerzo: €12.

L’Tour d’Argent: Con una vista preciosa del Seine, este clásico del haute cuisine Francés ahora es más accesible a la hora del almuerzo con un menú pre-fixe de 65 Euros. Sus postres son de otro mundo. 15-17 Quai de la Tournelle, 5 ^o, (01-43-54-23-31), Metro: Pont Marie o Cardinal-Lemoine, 12:00-13:30 y 19:30-21:00 Miércoles a Domingo.  Precio Promedio: €180. Menú Almuerzo: €65.

Pitchi Poi: La ubicación perfecta para un brunch el domingo: una plaza de barrio escondida de aldoquines y árboles sin tránsito. Se recomienda comenzar con los “blinis” con salmón ahumado y crema ácida. 7 Rue Caron, 9 Place Marché Ste-Catherine, 4º (01-42-77-46-15), Metro: St-Paul, 10:30-15:00 y 18:00-22:30 Lunes a Sábado, Brunch Domingo 12:00-16:00. Precio Promedio: €20. Brunch Domingo: €24.

Salón de Té, La Mosquée de Paris: Un patio silencioso con árboles con sala de té árabe, es una parada ideal para tomarse un té de menta o probar algunos dulces árabes. La mesquita es hermosa, cubierta de azulejos verdes y blancos de Algeria. 1 Place du Puits-de-l’Ermite, 5^o(01-45-35-97-33), Metro: Censier-Daubenton, 10:00-00:00 todos los días. Precio Promedio: €10. Sólo té y/o dulces: €3-5.  

Tricotin: Sus comedores exuden aires de Hong Kong con vitrinas de patos enteros glaseados. El dim sum, platos de fideos, y curries (tailandeses y malayas) son exquisitos. Muy económico. (promedio 15 Euros por persona). 15 av. De Choisy, 13 ^o (01-45-84-74-44), Metro: Porte de Choisy, 9:00-23:00 todos los días.  Precio Promedio: €15.

Marché-Mania
Las ferias libres son los mejores lugares en Paris para tomar el pulso de la escena local y conocer en primera persona que comen los parisinos. Se puede degustar todo y abastecer el refrigerador con snacks y tesoros culinarios. Todos los arrondissements  tienen varias ferias durante la semana (mayores información en www.paris.fr).

Marché des Enfants Rouges, 3º, 39 Rue de Bretagne: El Mercado más antiguo de Paris funcionando desde 1615 donde se encuentran una gran variedad de carnes, pescados, quesos, panes y verduras--todo abajo un techo restorado. Martes a Sábado desde las 8:30 a 13:00 y 16:00 a 19:30; Domingo 8:30-14:00.

Marché Monge, 5º, Place Monge: En una plaza rodeada por árboles a una cuadra del Rue Mouffetard, su onda es más relejada y los puestos ofrecen una variedad de ensaladas, especias, miel y otras tentaciones. Miércoles y Viernes 7:00-14:30 y Domingo, 7:00-15:00.

Marché Biologique, 6º, Blvd. Raspail: La feria orgánica al aire libre más conocida en Paris. Cada domingo sus puestos coloridos venden pescados, carnes, verduras, frutas y pasteles exquisitos. Ojo: los precios altos suelen “picar”. Boulevard Raspail entre Cherche-Midi y Rennes, Martes, Viernes y Domingo, 7-14:30.

El Culto del Baguette
El baguette perfecto, junto con el croissant, son las obsesiones y adicciones diarias de todos los Parisinos. En una cuidad llena de boulangeries parece díficil determinar cuáles panaderías tienen los mejores baguettes. Consejo sencillo: busque un baguette con textura crocante que revela una masa lechosa, liviana y masticable adentro con el sabor de leche fresca de campo. Nota: compren un poco de queso y un Cotes de Rhone y bajar al río Seine para un picnic improvisto.  No se olviden del destapador.

Maison Kayser: No se asusten por la cola, avanza rápida. Discutiblemente la mejor panaderia en París, los baguettes son perfectos (algo más que mantequilla sería un pecado capital). Si les tientan lo dulce, los croissants de almendra son una relevación. 8 Rue Monge, 5º (01-44-07-01-42),  Metro: Place Monge.

Poilâne: Reconocido internacionalmente (su pan ya está en restaurants top Londinenses), esta panadería antigua es pura diversión mirar a sus trabajadores hacer su magia con el horno a leña. 8 rue du Cherche-Midi, 6º (01-45-48-42-59), Metro Sèvres Babylone o St-Suplice, 7:15am-20:15 Lunes a Sábado.

Darse el Gusto: Tiendas de Especialidad
En ninguna parte se puede “regalonear”, gastronómicamente hablando, como en París: un queso cabra madurado con mucho cariño; un espresso perfecto; botellas de aceites y vinagres especiales; helados artesanales; ingredientes exóticos y aromáticos. El concepto de terroir en Francia no sólo aplica  al vino--también al queso, las cecinas, etc. 

Debauve & Gallais: Antiguamente era una farmacía en los 1800 fabricando chocolate para objetivos medicinales. Hoy sus chocolates están rellenos de té, miel, o crocante. Sus gelatinas de fruta radillan como joyas deliciosas. 30 rue de Sts-Pères, 7^o (01-45-48-54-67),  Metro: Saint Germain-des-Prés. 9:00-19:00 Lunes a Sábado.

Fromagerie 31: Una nueva tienda de queso con area de degustación donde se puede probar queso maduro con una copa de vino. 64 rue de Seine, 6^o (01-43-26-50-31), Metro: Mabillon. 10:00-20:00 Martes a Viernes; 10:30-13:30pm Sábado.

Helados para Todos: Los helados fantásticos de Berthillon o Damman’s con sus sabores distintos, como yogurt Bulgaro, tiramisú, pan de especias, pistachio, lavanda con caramelo, valen el viaje. Berthillon, 31 Rue St-Louis-en-l’Île, 4º (01-43-54-31-61), Metro: St-Paul; Damman’s, 20 Rue du Cardinal-Lemoine, 5º (01-46-33-61-30), Metro: Cardinal-Lemoine.

Izrael: Un casi-souk árabe en Paris ubicado en un espacio enano en el Marais lleno de olores sensuales, este es el reconocido comerciante de especias y productos exóticos. 30 Rue François-Miron, 4 ^o(01-42-72-66-23), Metro: Hotel de Ville o St-Paul, 9:30 a 13:00 y 14:30 a 19:00 Lunes a Viernes, 9:00-19:00 Sábado.

Julien Caviste: Después de explorar el Marché des Enfants-Rouges, este comerciante del vino emergente apasionado merece una visita para conocer los pequeños productores que ha descubierto. 50 rue Charlot, 3^o (01-42-72-00-94) Metro: Filles du Calvaire,  9:30-20:30 Martes a Sábado.

Marie-Anne Cantin: La especialidad es el queso no-pasteurizado y cremoso. Notarios son sus chèvres maduros y beauforts, todos madurados en su propia cava. 12 rue du Champ-de-Mars, 7º (01-45-50-43-94), Metro: Ecole Militare, 8:30-19:30 Lunes a Sábado.

La Dernière Goutte: La vinoteca del barrio Saint Germain, atendido por su dueño norteamericano, Juan Sanchéz. Excelente selección de vinos regionales de productores pequeños. 6 Rue de Bourbon-Château, 6^o (01-43-29-11-62), Metro: Saint Germain-des-Prés,11:00-13:30 y 16:00 a 19:30 Lunes a Sábado.

La Grande Epicerie de Paris: Un supermercado de lujo ubicado en la grande tienda, Le Bon Marché. Ofrece un abanico de productos culinarios y un deli gourmet. Abastece su dispensa de riquezas francesas para consumo inmediato o para la vuelta con su selección de mostazas, patés y chocolates. 38 Rue de Sèvres, 7^o (01-44-39-80-00), Metro: Sèvres-Babylone, 9:00 a 19:00 Lunes a Sábado.

La Maison du Chocolat: Una pequeña tienda innovadora utilizando granos de cacao de todo el mundo en combinaciones interesantes: cardamomo, ají, fruta fresca, infusiones herbales y vino. Perfecto para regalos. 19 Rue de Sèvres, 6^o, (01-45-44-20-40), 10:00-19:00 Lunes a Sábado.

Maison de la Truffe: En un conjunto de tiendas gourmet en el Metro Madeleine, se especializa en trufas negras desde las trufas enteras al aceite. Ideal para regalos, o darse el gusto. 19 Place de Madeleine, 8 ^o(01-42-65-53-22), Metro: Madeleine, 9:00 a 21:00Lunes a Sábado.

Tang Frères: El mayor supermercado asiático en Paris, en Chinatown,  aquí hay hongos secos, condimentos y otros ingredients díficiles-de-encontrar. Es entretenido ver la mercadería y comprender la profunda influencia gastronómica de las antiguas colonias en la Francia de hoy. 48 av. D’Ivry, 13^o (01-45-70-80-00). Metro: Porte de Choisy o Porte d’Ivry.

Torréfacteur Verlet: Aromas de café perfumado penetran este local donde el maestro tuesta los granos a perfección. Asegurénse de probar el mejor café de Paris en su salón de té. 256 Rue St-Honoré, 1^o (01-42-60-67-39), Metro: Palais Royal, 9:30-19:00 todos los días.

  

By Liz Caskey

Most visitors come to tour Bordeaux’s acclaimed Appellations and Chateaux, although the city offers much more. Its neoclassical architecture has recently gotten a facelift giving it renewed 18^th-century grandeur; a brand-new, modern tram system has revamped city transportation; the city boasts excellent museums, lively nightlife and restaurants, and beaches and medieval towns close by. Here is the quick guide to checking out the local scoop:    

THE CITY

 

A “virginal” Vinexpo visitor, I must confess that I was immediately bowled over and a bit overwhelmed by the mammoth proportions of the event—the sheer number of stands, participants, wine and liquor varieties, tastings and workshops, and even the huge pavilion itself, which at one point I calculated was roughly more than a kilometer walking from one end to the other. That means I was averaging a 5k walk/run daily just visiting stands!

Arriving on the first (sleepy) Sunday morning, Vinexpo was not yet in full swing. Quickly realizing the need to employ a “visitation strategy” to effectively check out the event and take its pulse—or risk getting lost, stressed out, and end up seeking refuge in the press room with the cold champagne that they always seemed to be serving—I used that day to plan my attack for the remainder of the event. Upon arrival Monday, I noted that the atmosphere had significantly changed. The buzz had picked up with more than 45,000 visitors from 140 countries circulating through the halls and pouncing the stands of 43 different countries present at the expo.

In terms of the 2005 exhibition, a total of 41,000 sq. m. of stand floor space was assigned to exhibitors, and of that, 62% was occupied by stands from France ( Well, it is their home turf!). After France, the most represented countries were, in corresponding order, Italy (9%), Spain (8%), Chile (3%), Germany (2.6%), and Portugal (2.5%). All New World companies with the exception of New Zealand were present: Chile, Argentina, Uruguay, South Africa, Australia, and the United States.

Also new for 2005 was Hall 3, a new hall that provided 12,000 sq. m. of additional floor space, adjacent to the main building. The hall housed mainly French regional pavilions in addition to some stands from Australia, Austria, Scotland, Ireland, Hungary, etc. Vinexpo seemed to be putting a lot of emphasize on the “modern” air conditioning facilities of this hall, which (in theory) maintained the temperature at 25 ºC while the mercury outside soared up to 38 ºC.

One afternoon, in desperate need of a break and a walk, I decided to put all this talk of  the “A/C” to the test, especially after having heard numerous stories about the failed A/C fiasco in 2001, which was the main reason that New Zealand skipped this year’s Vinexpo. Starting at the principal entrance, I cruised Hall 1 to the long main hall (2) which seemed to be under adequate climate control. Oddly, as I got towards the end of Hall 2, where the South American wines were housed (Chile, Argentina, Uruguay), the temperature started rising—to the point I noticed that many of the winemakers at Chilean stands and journalists hanging out were dripping sweat down their forehead and complaining about the heat. When I asked about the improved interior climatic conditions for 2005 at the Terramater stand, I got a slight chuckle and response of “What A/C?” from winemaker Cristián Vallejo. Uh-oh.

A little perplexed how the A/C could not be working again (didn’t they learn their lesson?), I continued with the investigation to the new Hall 3. Opening the door, a polar breeze came flooding out and inside, effectively the temperature was quite cool. For as well organized as Vinexpo was in many different areas (such as new features as L’Avenue which rounded up the press room, general office, VIP club, etc.), I find the air conditioning problem unforgivable. Wine is ultimately a perishable good, thousands of bodies create significant body heat, and overall a detail which is totally amateur and utterly unacceptable.    

In contrast to previous years, there were less visitors in 2005, although the general consensus was that the visitors who attended were overall more professional and focused. The vast majority were wholesalers, retailers, importers, restaurant professionals, sommeliers, and press.  The ambience seemed to be serious but laid back, professional yet congenial, and most importantly, visitors genuinely interested in the stands they were visiting, with many visits scheduled previous to arrival. Being a newcomer, I personally felt some sense of camaraderie not only with the Chilean stands but in general. The people working the stands were truly interested in showing their products and engaging the public. The level of knowledge and contacts exchanged seemed positive and flowing.

Some of the first-timers such as Beijing Dragon Seal Wines Co. of China and Khao Yao Winery of Thailand were creating a lot of interest with visitors (and lines) to get to know their product. One of the hot areas throughout the whole expo was the Wines of Portugal. There was constantly a swarm of people not only trying the ports (and their really fun tastings paired with foie gras, desserts, or cheeses) but also the other varieties such as the excellent whites from the Alto Douro, Estremadura, and Alentejo regions. In general, Portuguese wines seem to be taking on a higher profile and reputation for their great quality and fragrant whites. Although always an old world wine producer, perhaps this Vinexpo helped transition them more into the world limelight, showing that Portugal’s wines can heavily compete on the world market and break out of the “only port” image. Another area causing significant noise was the Uruguay stand area, which increased over 48% from the last Vinexpo. On various occasions, I was at least 3-5 people deep to get a taste of the lovely Tannat grape variety. With proper marketing, it would seem that this wine could definitely provoke major interest worldwide.

As mentioned before, New Zealand was the only new world wine not in attendance. Although unfortunate that they opted not to be present at this Vinexpo, especially from a comparative perspective for trying their wines in reference to the other new world countries, overall the deterrence from the “Vinexpo experience” seemed somewhat minimal. In the end, there were so many stands to visit and wines to try that one simply refocused on other countries. 

Chilean Wines at Vinexpo

Chile this year held fourth place in terms of stand space with 1,089 sq. m. With the exception of Concha y Toro, which opted to stage its Vinexpo “headquarters” in the very chichi Club des Marques outside the main hall, the rest of the Chilean stands were towards the end of Hall 2, grouped with other fellow South American wines from Argentina and Uruguay. In general, there always seemed to be a constant flow of visitors to the Wines of Chile area in addition to the pre-arranged contacts many of the wineries had scheduled. Many visitors (and workers) with whom I chatted both at Vinexpo and the nightly dinners/events felt that Chilean wines remained extremely consistent in their quality and price value in comparison with other years. Lesser known valleys abroad such as Limarí or San Antonio and the smaller, boutique-style wineries also were of interest to many visitors, leaving a good taste (literally). Certainly the increased presence of Chilean wines as a concerted whole is a positive sign that the weight of Chile in the world wine market is a permanent upward trend. At this Vinexpo, Viña Ventisquero was honored by a special panel of international judges as one of the Producteurs Laureats, as was its Carmenere 2003 for the Prix Special category. 

On the “other side of the stand”, that is, the perception of the Chilean wineries present at Vinexpo, many made mention that this Vinexpo was vastly improved from the last—in terms of organization, level of visitors, and the quality of business generated. René Merino, General Manager of Viña Casa Tamaya and President of Chilevid, noted that in general, “Vinexpo was excellent for us as it allowed us to open various new markets that are very attractive, such as Sweden, Norway, and even France.” He did emphasize though the Casa Tamaya had done a significant amount of previous work to schedule meetings with distributors and wine negotiants which were key in achieving a successful Vinexpo. “You cannot wait at the stand for clients to come to you, you have to prepare beforehand and maximize the time there to meet with everyone,” as Mr. Merino mentioned.

Perhaps the only, but quite significant, criticism was once again the problem with air-conditioning, which seemed to only affect the Chile, Argentina, and Uruguay areas. Mr. Merino, representing Chile, joined with Argentina and Uruguay during Vinexpo to present a formal complaint about the unacceptable condition. In fact, during a recent phone interview he said that, “It got to the point where all red wines had to be kept in the refrigerator and during meetings, clients would be profusely sweating.” Chilevid and Wines of Chile have taken this problem seriously, indicating that they are seriously considering Chile’s participation at the next Vinexpo if no guarantee is given to avoid this problem. However, ending on a positive note Mr. Merino added, “Apart from this, I think it was a very good Expo for everyone”.

Perhaps there are no gold, silver or bronze medals given at Vinexpo, but one thing is certain, it is a heavyweight in business contacts, opening new markets, and press for the wine world. I certainly enjoyed it from an interactive spectator perspective. Until 2007!