EAT WINE

Con la temporada de verano llegando, las tardes suelen pasarse en la compañía de mi pareja o buenos amigos, disfrutandos unos cocktails ricos al aire libre. De todos los tragos, mi favorito es el martini—o bueno, el vodkatini técnicamente. Es un trago muy puro y no miento, se siente algo sexy por su copa.

El martini perfecto es algo elusivo. Es increible para un trago que sólo contiene un par de ingredientes, gin (o vodka en mi caso) y vermouth, es tan díficil encontrar uno bien hecho. Suelen ser pasados de vermouth, usando un alcohol de calidad inferior que resulta en una caña terrible, o hasta hacer innovaciones creativas que no corresponden. Soy de la vieja escuela de los martinis: seco con tres aceitunas por favor. Cómo mi búsqueda no rinde muy seguido los frutos deseados, he encontrado la solución: Mejor que lo prepare yo. Aquí es como hacer un martini, o vodkatini, perfecto.

Primero, reinan los ingredientes de primera calidad. No hay nada para mascarar un alcohol de mala calidad en este trago. Si van a hacer uno, no es el tiempo para ahorrarse unas lucas en el alcohol más barato. Se lo seguro que su cuerpo les cobrará después. También no dejen de lado un buen vermouth. El ratio de gin/vodka a vermouth es de suma importancia. La idea es hacer un trago muy seco; seco referiendose al ratio de gin/vodka siendo más alto que el vermouth. El ratio a 3-1 funciona muy bien.

Para preparar, en una copa de martini fría, enjugarla con el vermouth y botar lo adicional. En una coctelera de acero inoxidable, agregar bastante hielo y la porción de gin/vodka. Agitar o revolver rapidamente, la idea es enfríar el alcohol sin diluirlo. Tiene que ser muy frío.

Para servir, colocar un “twist” de limón o las aceitunas en la copa y vertir el alcohol enfriado, colando (no se sirve con hielo). Disfruta y cheers!

Por Liz Caskey

Estoy sentada en un café que realmente es una picada local, La Giralda. Queda en pleno barrio San Nicolás en la avenida Corrientes, entre teatros y librerías. No hay ningún letrero afuera; sólo llegan los que saben o cuyo olfato (y curiosidad) les gana. Adentro, su decoración es sencilla con baldosas blancas cubriendo las paredes, mesas de formica y espejos, sólo un letrero de neón en el muro del fondo dice Submarino con Churros, la especialidad de la casa. Hay varias parejas, amigos y colegas sentados, conversando apasionadamente y tomando su café...aquí uno no se viene por la decoración—el buen café y conversación mandan.

Buenos Aires es una ciudad cuya bencina es la cafeína; adrenalina estrictamente dosificada en la forma de un “café”, o espresso. De hecho, se logra hacer muy poco en la mañana antes del primer cortado. En cada manzana y esquina de la capital hay una carta estandard de las típicas bebidas de café y sus acompañamientos, siempre junto al mozo vestido con una humita, los ojos cansados del efecto de trabajar over time y una selección de revistas y periódicos encima de las mesas para hojear.

El fuerte gene italiano debe ser el responsable de la obsesión y adicción porteña al buen café, encontrando su expresión más pura en un simple espresso o ristretto. Pero detrás de esta bebida caliente y aromática yace la gran cultura de la cuidad: la cultura de “charlar”. Para los porteños, conversar es un arte e institución y sus cafés sin duda, son su mejor espacio para experimentarlo y participar.

Saco de mi bolso un libro que acabo de comprar en la librería del lado—“100 ideas para conversar”. La gráfica tiene en medio de la tapa una foto de café. Abarca todos los temas del debate que enganchan a los porteños—la política, Borges, psicoanálisis, fútbol, entre otras. Es fascinante, da ganas de discutir. Y bueno, ¿qué más puedo decir che? Quizás unos churros para acompañar mi café.

Well, back from BA on a recent business trip, I could hardly believe this shocker: BA is smoke free, that is the restaurants, bars, and (cough) even cafés. For years, I always contemplated and experienced BA and its culture through a lingering, thick haze of nicotine and smoke. Espressos with no fags? unthinkable. A fernet-cola without a puff? not doable. Dancing at milongas until the wee hours without cigs. I'll stop now. It was city where I was once told by a friend who was a pack-a-day die hard smoker that as a "non smoker", I had no right to complain (of the smoke). Hence, as you can see, it came a total surprise when Ley 1799 enforcing the non-smoking law, went into effect in October. Perhaps for me it was a Hallelujah, arriving to bed not smelling like a stale cigarette but I wondered how BA would continue to function. Somehow it has and the law is even being enforced (something that did not happen in Santiago when they recently tried to pass a similar decree). One word of advice though: hold your breathe walking out the door; the cigarette fiends gather rain or shine outside the local to get their fix. But fair is fair I suppose.

 

by Liz Caskey (unedited version)

In Mendoza, it seems that all roads lead to a winery given that more than 70% of all wine production in Argentina is concentrated here. Mendoza’s wine scene is booming and has come into its own by blending viticulture tourism with the unique landscapes of vines and the impressive Andes Mountain Range. In a relatively compact space, spanning the city and countryside, wine lovers can taste these inspiring wines alongside the casks, learn about the excellent terroir (climate and soil) of the area that produces these prized grapes, and pamper themselves with great food, spa treatments and luxurious hotels. Sounds like wine paradise? It is. Here are some recommendations to make the most out of a few days in Mendoza wine country.

Day 1: Much of the wine action is centered in the area known as Luján de Cuyo, about 20-30 minutes south of Mendoza city. A good way to get the tour underway is to head to the highly acclaimed Achaval Ferrer, a winery only producing high-quality red wines in limited volumes with their Malbecs from different single vineyards garnering up to 95 points by Wine Spectator with its winery located on the banks of the Rio Mendoza. Afterwards, drive north towards the charming, tree-lined suburb of Chacras de Coria to Altavista, a product of Franco-Argentine cultural fusion, where their “terroir-focused” philosophy makes Grand Crus in the traditional way of Bordeaux . A great lunch break is at the modern and chic La Bourgogne , part of the Carlos Pulenta Winery, where refined technique and local ingredients with some of the winery’s “cortes”, or assemblages can be inspiring. After lunch, stop next door at Fabre Montmayou, where French know-how is combined with Mendocino soil to produce terroir expression wines. If possible, try Le Gran Vin, one of the classic references in Argentinean wine. For the rest of the afternoon, kick your feet back at the Park Hyatt and treat yourself to one of their spa treatments or famous Thai massage.  Dine at Francis Mallman 1884, part of the Escorihuela winery and considered to be one of Mendoza’s landmark restaurants with a selection of grilled meats and homemade pasta, and a wine list the size of a dictionary (*).

Day 2: There is much more to the Mendoza wine scene than only Malbecs, and a festive way to get the day off to a start is at Chandon, the leader in sparkling wines in Argentina . A direct subsidiary since 1959 of Moet & Chandon in Champagne , France , take the tour to learn how both mass quantities and more boutique sparkling wine (elaborated in the traditional champenoise method) are made. It is worth the weight in your suitcase to bring back a bottle of the Baron B Unique. Just down a country road dotted with poplar trees is the well known Catena Zapata winery, founded by Nicolas Zapata, a Malbec pioneer and one of the first wineries to put Argentina on the international export map. Apart from its prized wines and stunning view of the Andes , the winery dazzles the visitor with its singular architecture—a Mayan pyramid. For a total departure from wine, head east for a luncheon at Almacen del Sur, a foodie’s dream. With its own organic farm and orchard, this gourmet delicatessen produces its own delicacies like sun dried Roma tomatoes, green tomato chutney, roasted piquillo peppers, rose petal preserves, Malbec jam, among others. If you can spare the time (and space in your stomach), their 5 course lunch is a culinary odyssey showing off the homemade products. Finally, Norton, one of Argentina ’s solid large benchmark wineries (owned by the Austrian Swarovski family) is worth a visit to get a sense of one of the country’s larger players—Argentineans after all consume 39 liters of wine per year!  In the evening, hang out at the adorable Club Tapiz, a boutique hotel located in a historic estate dating back to 1890 surrounded by vineyards and enthralling. For a low key dinner, try their cozy restaurant, Terruño, where the tender “chivo”, or roasted goat, is succulent.

Day 3: Although 50 miles to the south, the Uco Valley definitely merits a “wine detour” as it is the land of coveted terroir with enthralling views of the Andes from every angle. Here many of the winery heavyweights and foreign investments are concentrated because of one reason: the perfect soil and climate, which is cooler than its sister wineries to the north. A good point to being at is with the tour at O. Fournier, located in La Consulta, where bush vines are planted at over 1,200 meters altitude. Given O. Fournier’s Spanish roots, it is natural that they have specialized in producing excellent tempranillo in addition to world class blends like A Crux and B Crux. The facilities are unique—an ultra modern winery which imposes on the horizon and slated for 2007, a luxury hotel.  Continue northeast through country back roads to the feet of the towering snow covered Andes in an area known as Vista Flores. Stop for a visit at Monteviejo or Flecha de los Andes , two of the wineries in the prestigious Clos de los Siete that grow high altitude Malbec and some Chardonnay. Apart from a jaw dropping view, the wines are impressive with old world elegance. Recommended for lunch, only 10 minutes down the road, is one of the classic eateries in valley known as the Posada del Jamón, specializing in home cured Serrano Ham, salami, and other cuts of pork. Humongous portions, reasonable prices, and a well crafted wine list make this rustic haunt a gem. After lunch, one last stop at Lurton, the investment of Bordeaux brother Jacques y Francois Lurton is worth the effort. If the cellar master is on hand, you may be fortunate enough for tastings straight from the tanks or barrels of some of their excellent wines, including the Pinot Gris. Back in Luján de Cuyo, check-in to the luxurious and swish Cavas Wine Lodge with its individual designer cabañas in the middle of the vineyards with impeccable taste. Sip your Baron B and watch the sun set over the Andes from your private rooftop terrace, or have a wine spa treatment, and then dig in to some modern cuisine at the hotel restaurant with local wines from the Cavas cellar.

 

Wineries:

Achaval Ferrer, www.achaval-ferrer.com, 54 261 498 4874

Altavista, www.altavistawines.com, 54 261 496 4684

Fabre Montmayou, export@bodegasdomvistalba.com.ar, 54 261 498 2330

Chandon, www.chandon.com.ar, 54 261 490 9900 / 06

Catena Zapata, www.catenawines.com, 54 261 490 0214

Norton, www.norton.com.ar, 54 261 490 9700

O. Fournier, www.ofournier.com, 56 262 245 1579 / 088 / 598

Monteviejo, www.monteviejo.com, 56 262 242 2054

Lurton, www.jflurton.com, 54 262 249067 / 78

Where to sleep:

Park Hyatt

www.mendoza.park.hyatt.com

54 261 441 1234

Cavas Wine Lodge

www.cavaswinelodge.com

54 261 410 6927/28

Club Tapiz

www.fincaspatagonias.com / www.newage-hotels.com

Where to dine:

La Bourgogne

www.carlospulentawines.com

54 261 498 9421

Francis Mallman 1884

54 261 424 2698

(*) Fair is fair, our last meals at Mallman have been very lackluster (not the case when this article was turned in in March). We are now recommending Francesco as an alternative, or Las Negras for the young, very hip, and in search of creative cuisine. 

Terruño

clubtapiz@tapiz.com.ar

54 261 496 3433

Almacen del Sur

www.almacendelsur.com

54 261 410 6597

Posada del Jamón

www.laposadadeljamon.com.ar

56 262 249 2053

Specialized wine tours in Mendoza:

For custom made, luxury wine tours with a special touch contact:

Liz Caskey -Culinary and Wine Tours,  www.lizcaskey.com