Thursday, November 16, 2006
Wining & Dining Buenos Aires: Restaurant Recs, Round II (October-November 2006)
As our wine and culinary tour business grows in Argentina, I am increasingly finding myself in Buenos Aires, a city whose pulse, flavor, and movement I absolutely love and thrive on. During October and November, I added some new, old, and revisited restaurants to my repertoire of local eateries. The restaurants reviewed last year in my first round still continue to be favorite haunts like Danzón, Sucre, Lo de Jesús, Social Paraíso, Milión, and other old school cafés like La Giralda for its chocolate and churros. Eating is so integral to getting to know Buenos Aires and porteño’s culture. I recommend dining in joints, chichi restaurants, having medialunas and coffee, stopping for gelato on a walk, enjoy the treat’s of the city. Buenos Aire is utterly delicious.
Lola, Roberto M. Ortiz 1805, b/t Guido and Quintana, Recoleta, 4804-5959
In the area known as “el paseo” in Recoleta, where eateries with high turnover and higher prices reign, Lola is a classic and elegant, sophisticated Buenos Aires. It’s the perfect place to take your future in-laws or top clients to impress with their European-style menu and top notch wines. The combination of creativity and classic technique work well. Try their exquisite carpaccio, raviolis and sorrentinos, and if you want to splurge, their duck is marvelous. On a sunny spring day, the patio is perfect for crowd watching.
Guido’s Bar, República de la India 2843, b/t Cabello and Gutierrez, Palermo, 4802-2391
A pea-sized trattoria where every inch of the walls is covered by posters paying homage to Italy, tango singers, kitsch movies (and stars), and even soft porn in the bathroom. It is as much of a cultural experience and memory of an era as it is an eatery. Here, there is no printed menu and owner Carlos sends out the day’s special in many courses from antipasti to pizza to pasta and finally tiramisu for dessert. The wine and food are rustic but here the ambience and experience rule. It is testament to BA’s Italian heritage and a must if you want a homey, authentic, and up-close-and-local evening.
Lucky Luciano, Cerviño 3943, b/t República de la India & Lafinur, Palermo, 4802-1262
Can’t get a reservation at Guido’s Bar? Head for Lucky Luciano. One of its many reasons for opening was to pick up much of the overflow from Dad Carlos’ bar around the corner. However, much more than a copy, it has found its own colorful identity serving up savory appetizers and perfectly cooked dishes. The menu is more extensive and refined (there is even buffalo!) with an excellent wine list. Don’t skip dessert and do opt for the coffee to keep you awake after all that gorging when the bill arrives. Buon appetito!
MALBA Café, Figeroa Alcorta, Palermo
The MALBA (Modern Art Museum of Buenos Aires, one of the best in Latin America) is well worth a morning or afternoon exploring the temporary expositions and excellent permanent collection (Constantini). The museum’s café is the perfect spot to recharge your batteries. With a stark white and minimalist décor and exquisite sunny terrace with parasol umbrellas in the summer, the fare is bistro-style with steak or roasted chicken or seared tuna, all simple but delicious. Perhaps not a destination restaurant but works well in an itinerary when your museum visit borders lunch time. Recommended.
La Brigada, Estados Unidos 465, b/t Bolívar and Defensa, San Telmo, 4361-4685
Parrillas in San Telmo of the “cheap and cheerful” fashion are rampant in San Telmo, flooded particularly on Sunday’s for the antique market. For a cut above the rest, head for La Brigada. Still faithful to Argentina’s holy trinity (wine, steak, and soccer), the succulent meat is cooked to perfection, the wine list will make you swoon, and service is efficient and with a big smile. The catch? Make a reservation in advance or resign yourself to a long wait and very late lunch. My personal recs: bife de chorizo cooked “jugoso” (perfect pink medium rare), mixed green salad, Provencal fries, and the well appointed wine list: from the trendy Achaval Ferrer to Altavista, or for $50 pesos (US$16), the best choice by far is the Fabre Montmayou Malbec 2003 (or 2004), one of my favorite wineries in Mendoza. It all works so well.
Casa Cruz, Uriarte 1658, b/t El Salvador and Honduras, 4833-1112
For the ultimate experience in dining in BA, you MUST hit Casa Cruz. Better than Narnia, Casa Cruz is a total dining immersion in which time is irrelevant and the only focus is pleasuring your taste buds. Upon entering the 10 foot copper doors (no sign outside, not that it’s neeed), cop a squat on one of the oversized couches or at the sleek oval bar, asking the bartender to serve you up a sublime martini or gimlet. Once at your table in the redwood-panelled, dim-light dining room (with eclectic, well chosen music from Hotel Costes to Sinatra), dive into their creative menu. The flavor combinations may sound out there—they work. We loved the corn tamale with shrimp and poached oysters with cavior and tapioca for appetizers. Main courses that dazzled us were smoked ahi tuna and succulent lamb loin, or for the decadent, white truffle risotto with duck confit and mango chutney. Don’t skip dessert like the Earl Grey Tea soufflé and certainly ask the sommelier for help with their wine bible. Our wine recommendation: Rosell Bohrer sparkling wine (or Eternum ZD if they have it); or for a boutique Malbec with good price-quality ratio, the Enrique Foster Malbec Reserva or Edición Limitada are fantastic. Excellent (silent) service, exquisite cuisine, good drinks and a beautiful crowd will transport you away to another world. Let go and enjoy it. Reservations a must (several days advance notice recommended).*
*I have eaten now at Casa Cruz several time since it opened in late 2004 and although very trendy and fashionable, the quality of the food and service continues to be outstanding. It is one of my personal favorites!
Sudestada, Guatemala 5602, and Fitz Roy, 4776-3777
White, cool, and well located on a picturesque Palermo Viejo corner, Sudestada will send your palate into chili ecstasy. With ingredients and flavors from Vietnam, Thai, Laos, and Burma, Vietnamese chef Tien Duic serves classics like Kaw Moo Daeng (barbecued pork with spicy peanut sauce), Thai beef rice noodles, among others. Try their lemonade marinated with fresh ginger and lemongrass and excellent lunch menu for $17 (US$6). And for dessert, the ubiquitous Vietnamese (sweet) coffee. One of my favorites.
Standard, Fitz Roy 2203, and Guatemala, Palermo Viejo, 4776-3777
Funny name for a restaurant whose cuisine is far from being “Standard”. Located on the corner facing Sudestada (same owners), with large frame glass windows, Standard is a recreation of a 1950s diner—in Argentina: white tablecloths, wooden furniture, red booths, and a large blackboard with the du jour make it feel like an institution (Happy Days?) serving up old school porteño favorites like milanesa napolitana (beef breaded and fried with ham and cheese), raviolis de seso (calves brain and spinach ravioli) in addition large dishes requiring 2 days notice like slow-cooked lamb from Córdoba or suckling pig. Old-fashioned style and delicious food—reinvented for the hipster crowd.
Bengal, Arenales 837, b/t Esmeralda and Suipacha, Retiro, 4314-2926
If you get a random hankering for curry, in BA you could be out of luck, but Bengal certainly dishes up some “spicy” concoctions that could keep those cravings at bay. Skip the first two pages of pastas (for the Argentine crowd that has a deathly fear of anything “picante”) and go to the fiery stuff. It may not be straight from Delhi but in these latitudes, the sauces aren’t too bad. With a couple cocktails, you will be good to go.
Osaka, Soler 5608, b/t Bonpland and Fitz Roy, Palermo Hollywood, 4775-6964 (NO CREDIT CARDS)
With dinner reservations requiring at least 10 days advance notice, it would seem Osaka is on the HOT list at the moment. We ended up going for lunch with many expectations, particularly interested in how its Peruvian-Japanese fusion cuisine would be. As a public service announcement to all my blog readers, I really must confess that for all the touting in various magazines, I was quite let down. The décor in the restaurant was dominated by Johnny Walker labels everywhere. The food was good (I ordered seared octopus and my fiancé calamari) but a far cry from any sign of Peruvian ingredients on the menu (quinoa, camote, rocoto, red onion, etc.) and the only hint of Japanese was a sushi bar. The sensation? A bluff. And expensive one. Lunch for two with no dessert, shared appetizer, and only beer, came to almost US$45 (tré expensive for BA). Once again fusion cuisine that is confusion.
La Cabrera, Cabrera 5099, and Thames, Palermo Viejo, 4831-7002
Although a traditional parrillada located in Palermo Viejo (which hasn’t yet succumbed to the area’s chichi restaurant scene), La Cabrera has a slightly different take on a very well-known fare: steak. Unconventional twists like grilled goat cheese instead of provolone, and accompaniments with grilled meats like couscous, roasted garlic, eggplant, etc. make it a fun departure. Wine list is basic and the lines can be long. Reserve well ahead, or head for La Cabrera Norte, one block away, the same restaurant (and scene) designed to catch the overflow.
CBC-California Burrito Co. Lavalle 441, b/t San Martin and Reconquista, Microcentro, 4328-3056
This tasty gem located off the pedestrian avenue Lavalle seems to cater to the foreign population, particularly us Americans (who dream of In & Out Burgers and Carne Asada Burritos). CBC is a great lunch haunt (with delivery) offering huge burritos with tasty fixings like beef, chicken, roasted pork, black beans, rice, red peppers and onions, a variety of salsas and guacamole. For a lighter option they have a bed of lettuce; all for $12 (US$4) with a beverage included. Good deal, friendly service, cool American owners. What are you waiting for? Check it out.
Irifune, Paraguay 412, Microcentro, 4312-8787
Finally, I found it. A little Japanese restaurant frequented by the Asian population, respecting tradition. Order in or order out (delivery) but the rice is perfectly cooked with the right balance of seasoning, the rolls are light and fragrant with buttery, fresh fish that melts-in-your-mouth; the miso soup with tofu is soul warming; and their other dishes, like steamed baby spinach with sweet sauce, delicious. Added to the top of my list of ethnic haunts in BA, I was swooning for hours after eating here. Fills up quickly for lunch. Not cheap, but for first rate Japanese (a dime a dozen in this city), worth every peso.
Dashi, Fitz Roy 1613, b/t Gorriti and Honduras, Palermo Hollywood, 4776-3500
Huge glass windows frame a picturesque Palermo corner, where diners can watch the coming-and-going on the street. Chic colors like stone gray and dusty rose make this sushi hunt a favorite with the locals. While the sashimi and rolls were tasty, being a sushi purist, I found their inventive take on them not exactly my tune (tuna salad maki, I’ll pass thanks). The hot dishes (teriyaki, etc.) making the way to the tables neighboring us also smelled good. While decent, my hankering for old school sushi (anguila, tuna, hand rolls, etc.) lingered on well after dinner. Good thing we had a bottle of Baron B bubbly on hand!
Empire Thai, Tres Sargentos 427, b/t San Martín and Reconquista, Retiro/Microcentro, 4312-5706
In a low-lit corner of the itty-bitty street, Tres Sargentos,lurks Empire Thai. Hip, fun, laid back with a bar stocked with 20+ kinds of vodka, you can venture into chili-laden Asian-accented dishes from pad thai-type noodles to curries to sizzling satays. Order up a mixed drink, some aromatic appetizers with SE Asian inspiration (tweaked for the local palate, of course) and chill out in their cool digs. Or if solo, the bartenders make for good conversation and company. Once again, the lunch menu rules for only $20 (US$7).
Cluny, El Salvador 4618/22, b/t Malabia & Armenia, Palermo Viejo, 4833-1112
Open and airy with comfy white couches, high ceilings, and a charming terrace, Cluny is relaxed yet stylish serving up consisntely good food. The menu is heavily French-influenced from its carpaccio and mesclun salad to quiche lorraine or seared steak. Crunchy, toasted sandwiches with homemade gravlax and some interesting wines-by-the-glass from Familia Schroeder in the Patagonia, make Cluny a perfect lunch getaway or romantic, low-key date.
Kansas, Avenida del Libertador 4625, b/t J. Newbery and Matienzo, Palermo, 4776-4100
Okay, okay, I admit it. Even after almost a decade in South America, I still miss some very American dishes—like barbecued ribs. Here at Kansas, an upscale consistently busy eatery, the menu may be varied but the star is no doubt the American-style barbecue, cranked out in humongous portions. The barbeque sauce is ethereal and as the name Kansas implies, may just make you say “there’s no place like home”.
Brasserie Berry, Tucumán 775, b/t Maipú and Esmeralda, 4394-5255
In the heart of bustling Microcentro near Teatro Colón this family-team hailing from Lyon, France, serves up authentic French classics like Quenelle de Lyon, steak tartare, cheese plates, and a great “menu ejecutivo” at lunch time. Get there early as tables go quickly Unstuffy with retro bistro décor and a vintage fire-engine red refrigerator, its friendly atmosphere and excellent du jour make it a favorite.
Brasserie Pettanque, Defensa 596, with Mexico, San Telmo, 4342-7930
Oui, oui. This latest arrival in the San Telmo dining scene is about as bonified French as it gets (even the furniture was made with brasserie specifications). It is tré cute, romantique, picturesque, and offers everything you would want from a French menu, including Kir Royals (white wine or champagne with crème de cassis). Have a go at the Boeuf bourguignon, cassoulet, escargot, or for Sunday brunch, crepes and an omelette, all in an airy space with large frame windows and natural light. Order a Pastis and watch the world go by—and do make reservations if dining at night.
Oviedo, Beruti 2602, and Ecuador, Barrio Norte/Recoleta (4822-5415)
From the motherland, which is Spain (or Italy) in Argentina, comes Oveido, refined alta cocina from the Iberian peninsula. In a city where beef rules, take a break and try their exquisite fish and seafood selections like sole, sea bass, and cod or game meat like rabbit and lamb. One of the best wine lists in the city, an understated atmosphere, and good location in Barrio Norte (near Pueyerredón subte), make it a great resto.
11:25 Posted in RESTAURANT RECS & REVIEWS | Permalink | Comments (1) | Trackbacks (0) | Email this
Tuesday, July 18, 2006
UPDATE: THE SANTIAGO RESTAURANT & BAR SCENE (2006)
UPDATE: THE SANTIAGO RESTAURANT & BAR SCENE (2006)
BarsAs of late, I have been frequenting bars more than restaurants since I am more into a hip scene and less formality. There usually are some tasty nibbles to accompany the drinks and let’s face it, a good cocktail is always welcome. Salud!
Bar Yellow General Flores 47, Providencia (off Providencia to the north between Santa Beatriz and Manuel Montt), Metro: Manuel Montt
Bar Yellow is Santiago’s first cocktail bar. The bar, yellow and backlit, occupies 40+% of the premises and asks to be invaded by patrons (there are tables too). A very hip vibe, partially imparted by its English and Finnish Owners (Kirk and Marja Winstanley) where good taste in all senses rules. In addition to lots of delicious drinks perfectly mixed, there is an outstanding list of imported beers, spirits, and boutique wineries and lick-your-plate-great food. To start, get going with the Moscow Mule, a delicious concoction of vodka, ginger ale, and key lime; follow it up with a round of the Cuban martinis, a vodka-based martini which takes it inspiration from the mint in the Mojito with a fizzy touch of champagne on the top; or the most tongue-dazzling option, a raspberry-chili vodkatini. The drinks list is arranged according to the “mood” (from fizzy to refreshing) and the scrumptious bar food is bold and creative. Refined tasty classics like Double-fried French fries with spicy ketchup and horseradish sour cream; Thai green mussels; grilled meatloaf sandwich; grilled Portobello mushrooms on rosemary skewers; crispy celeriac pancakes with green apple-red onion-rosemary compote; homemade pâté with dried apricot chutney, and divine ice creams with flavors from saffron to lavender-honey complete the picture. If drinking is not your thing, don’t fret—they do a good, bistro-style lunch.
Catedral José Miguel de la Barra corner of Merced, Bellas Artes, Santiago Centro, Metro: Bellas Artes, 664-3048 www.operacatedral.cl
Located on the second floor of a quintessential 1950s corner of the oh-so-hip Bellas Artes area of the city (Santiago’s version of SoHo), this is the BAR right now to hang out at. It’s sleek and understated with rockin’ music and a “to be seen” crowd. Word to the wise: get there early. Most nights it is a mob scene by 9p.m. with waits for a table or even a coveted spot at the bar over an hour. The vodkatinis and mojitos are delicious; as is the crudo, a local version of steak tartar—filet finely chopped with shallots, capers, and lemon juice, add a touch of grainy French mustard and premium olive oil. Definitely a must while in town.
Patagonia Lastarria corner of Pedro Luis Valdivia, Bellas Artes/Lastarria, Metro: Universidad CatólicaGreat new addition to the Bellas Artes/Lastarria neighborhood. Patagonia is laid back and doesn’t try to be anything other than what it is: a good café in the charming surroundings of the cobblestone 19th-century Lastarria Street. Warm and inviting in the winter, this is a perfect post-movie date (right across from the retro movie theater) for a coffee or beer and light bite; or on a sunny, Sunday afternoon, the ideal location for an al fresco lunch, reading the paper over a cappuccino, people watching, and maybe catching a ray or two.
LTS Compañía corner of Maturana (on Plaza Brasil), Barrio Brasil, Metro: Cumming
LTS stands in Spanish for “litros de cerveza”, or liters of beer. That would about sum it up at this cute watering hole on the corner of the Bohemian Plaza Brasil. Each Formica booth has its own tap (minimum of 4-5 liters per booth so it is best to come with a couple friends) where you can try Chilean beers like Escudo, Cristal or maybe even some of the nice Patagonian lagers like Austral. Popcorn is complimentary and other drinks and unimaginative bar snacks are available. Young crowd, especially after university classes let out nearby.
Capital Federal l Bosque Norte 083, corner of Roger de Flor, El Golf, Las Condes, 232-1913, Metro: Tobalaba
Deriving its name from the capital of Argentina (Buenos Aires, which is referred to in-country as el Capital Federal), this barcito brings some necessary nightlife to El Golf sector, which is proliferated by restaurants but lacks major in the bar scene. Modern lines with simple yet good taste (all white, nice wine glasses), very Argentinean (read: Italian-esque) with good drinks and happy hour. In the summer, very delicious watermelon martinis or green apple martinis any time of the year. A good pit stop if you are staying in that area of town and don’t feel like going home after dinner—or need a place to kick-start your evening.
Park Club Piso 17 (Hotel Plaza Bosque) Ebro 2828, 17th Floor, corner of El Bosque Norte, El Golf, Las Condes, 498-1800, Metro: Tobalaba
This rooftop bar surely must have a name but I can never seem to remember it. This won hands-down as the bar for the summer of 2006 rating their happy hour (2x1 under 10p.m., average drink price around US$6 from mojitos to martinis) and the incredible view. Located on the 20th floor of the hotel, the bar looks south towards the towering Andes and Providencia area of the city. In the summer, you can sit on the terrace and watch the sun go down sipping your favorite poison. Careful though, happy hour starts early and ends late—and in good company with a view, that can be dangerous. Good news is that there are many taxis below on El Bosque waiting to whisk you home.
Per Piacere Catedral 2201, corner of Maturana, Barrio Brasil, 671-5217, Metro: Cumming
A relatively new “wine” bar in Barrio Brasil (although ironically I wasn’t bowled over by the wine selection), this is a funky, eclectic haunt which could conform part of a barrio bar tour. Simple, honest, with a cure interior, the vodka tonics we had were decent and the champiñones al pilpil, button mushrooms sautéed in butter, garlic, and chili, were the perfect compliment to drinks.
Boulevard Lavaud, Peluquería Francesa Compañía de Jesús 2789, corner of Libertad, Barrio Yungay, 682-5243, Metro: Cumming or Quinta Normal
Also part of the Barrio Brasil-Yungay area, this is one of the oldest businesses in the sector with over 100 years of history. Recently remodeled by the family, during the day the front part is still an old-time barber shop where local patrons have their beards shaved and hair cut. In the back is a cute but dark coffee shop. On the second floor is an antique cool bar/lounge which gets packed on the weekends. The food is purely a second thought here—the idea is to go out, hang out, and enjoy some mixed drinks in historic surroundings. A perfect ending to a bar tour in the area. Note: if going at night please go in a taxi. The metro is quite far and streets tend to be deserted and dark in certain pockets.
Restaurants
A whole line-up of new restaurants has appeared in the past few months since I first wrote up my Santiago restaurant reviews. These places, armed with cool décor, tend to focus on what I qualify as molecular or “confusion” cuisine (which seems to be somewhat passé on my last trip to the States). There are some very original dishes and fun spots, but I am still holding out (and terribly missing) those old school ethnic and comfort haunts—you know the dives we all love for authentic Thai, Indian, Vietnamese, Malaysian, Mexican, etc. and of course, my favorite diner.
C Monseñor Escrivá de Balaguer 5970, Vitacura, 355-6900, www.crestaurant.cl
Ex-chef and owner of the posh Agua, Christopher Carpentier, has headed further east (read: more chichi burbs) to open his new swanky bistro, “C” named after what else? His own initials. Almost on the border of being urban pretentious, a given because of its zip code, the place excels in its masculine minimalist interior design with warm coffee-toned masculine colors. And the food? C’s chef has great style and a knack for taking local primary ingredients and giving them a modern twist like, for example, the seared filet mignon with olive purée and crispy-soft tempura leeks. Pure lovin’.Emilio Monseñor Escrivá de Balaguer 5970, Vitacura, 355-6910, www.restaurantemilio.cl
Emilio Peschiera could be coined as the Peruvian Food Embassador in Chile. Owner of the successful El Otro Sitio, he opened up the Chilean palate to the wonders of Peruvian cuisine; a delicate, refined and spicy cuisine that has since infiltrated the national gastronomy. This new restaurant is a bit of a hybrid, combining his upbringing in Peru, his studies in England, and many years spent in Chile. The result is some very delicious and interesting dishes with refined technique and simple but intense flavors that make you go “oooohhh”--for example the roasted lamb on soft mascarpone polenta with herbs springs to mind. The place itself is upbeat with an imposing bar (4 stories high) and a classic-modern look that radiates its swish surroundings (its neighbor is the C restaurant). Recently inaugurated, this promises to be one of Santiago’s new gastronomic institutions. Definitely worth the hike.
Amorío Constitución 183, Bellavista, 777-1454, www.amorio.cl
Funky, funky, funky. Part of the Mori Cultural Center in Bellavista (and note, across the street from one of my favorite watering holes, Etniko), the restaurant is part of a totally “recycled” old mansion. With its lovely all-white terrace, antique chairs, polished parquet floors, and exposed bricks, the vibe is cosmopolitan and very cool. You can try the menu under the command of Agua’s ex sous-chef, Juan Manuel Tagle, or chill out in the second floor lounge with a drink and pick-ats. Hip, laid back, very fun, and one of the hottest places right now, it has thankfully brought back some winds of new to Bellavista.
Sukalde Av. Bilbao 460, Providencia, 665-1017
The buzz going around about this restaurant is “(de)constructivist”, “vanguard”, “our little Ferran Adriá”. It is the place of the moment in Santiago’s dining scene and to get a reservation, put your speed dial on and let it go to work. The charm comes from the young chef Matías Palomo who has put together a deconstructed style of cuisine through years of working and traveling. Simple, young, modern, and very, very small, for us “gringos” , it probably won’t seem as avant-garde as it did for the locals but there are some clever food tricks like making caviar out of soy or foamy things that look cool on the plate (but lacking consistency in the mouth). The menu is quite small and thus easy to navigate. Go with an adventurous mind—and a reservation, please.
Asian Bistro Parque Arauco Boulevard, Las Condes
The basic concept: get Chileans to eat more REAL Asian food. Mission impossible? Maybe—or maybe not now that Asian Bistro is about to open. I must admit, I was and still am dubious given the locale—a mall, Parque Arauco—located in the area that us expats jokingly refer to as Santiago’s “Tyson’s Corners”. However given the owners’ track record, owner of the Palacio Danubio Azul, it could work for mass consumption. The concept is to bring Thai, Chinese, and Japanese food under one roof for a high-density space. Could be an option those heavy shopping days when you need to eat without leaving the mall or for those staying at the Hyatt, a non-hotel option within walking distance. Will keep you posted as to its gastronomic developments.
Senso Hyatt Santiago, Avda. Kennedy 4601, 950-3145, www.santiago.hyatt.com
Part of the opulent Hyatt Santiago in the eastern suburb of Las Condes, the new Senso showcases regional Italian cuisine—specifically from Parma, Bologna, and Modena. It is a new concept in Santiago; that is regional Italian food, under the command of the Italian chef Roberto Illari. Its specialties are homemade pastas and revisited and refined classics using pork, fish, and seafood. The best part: real Parmiaggiano Reggiano and Balsamic vinegar in addition to a subdued interior and good wine list with some Italian varieties. Don’t miss the king crab cannelloni—delicious with a chilled Amayna Chardonnay.
Puerto Fuy Nueva Costanera 3969, Vitacura, 208-8908
Everyone here, from your hotel concierge to the newspaper Food Critic, has declared Puerto Fuy the new swanky “IT” restaurant, located in the area of Vitacura known as Santiago’s “Rodeo Drive”, the Nueva Costanera. Puerto Fuy is particularly applauded and geared at an upscale clientele who enjoys being seen and trying some molecular cuisine in that ambience. The surroundings are swanky (with a fitting price tag) and this science experiment-come-food menu does offer some unique specialties like their Sea Urchin foam, and some playful dishes with liquid nitrogen cartridges that turn, for instance, your innocent OJ into a frothy orange sorbet. While there are some interesting and innovative flavor combinations to be found in these swish surroundings, my personal post-dinner sensation ironically left me craving real comfort food--not a deconstructed macaroni and cheese.
Opera José Miguel de la Barra corner of Merced, Bellas Artes, Santiago Centro, Metro: Bellas Artes, 664-3048 www.operacatedral.cl
Located on the street level below Catedral, this sophisticated spot exudes style and good taste. Mostly French in its orientation, the dishes are fabulous like delicate Foie Gras Terrine, or Roasted Rack of Lamb or a Cherry Clafouti for dessert. The huge glass windows from floor to ceiling and Roman shades made of crude-colored linen let the light in and street life (the “natural” art work) in. A perfect stop for a post-opera dinner at the Municipal Theater only blocks away, or an intimate dinner. Whatever the occasion, reserve well ahead of time—it is usually hard to get a table.
Zully
Plaza Concha y Toro 34 (coming off the Alameda between Brasil and Maturana; or if driving, between Erasmo Escala and Maturana), Santiago Centro, 696-3990, Metro: Republica
A converted mansion on one of Santiago Centro’s architectural jewels, Plaza Concha y Toro, Zully transports you to another époque—on the outside at least. Inside the turn-of-the-century 20-room home-turned-restaurant, the expert “recycling” job renewed the high ceilings and ornate molding, stunning patterned parquet floors, and added some precise halogen lighting and bright art work for an eclectic vibe. The food from the “international” menu, spanning several continents and tamed for the Chilean palate, can be hit or miss as can be the service at times but generally speaking the cool environs, comprehensive wine list, and a chance to dine in a piece of Santiago’s social history make it worth a go. Especially in the summer, the roof-top Roman terrace complete with pillars offers sweeping views of the city—perfect for sipping your ice cold Pisco Sour and knocking back some shrimp gyosas.22:35 Posted in RESTAURANT RECS & REVIEWS | Permalink | Comments (0) | Trackbacks (0) | Email this
Monday, December 19, 2005
Happy New Year's in Valparaiso and Viña del Mar
Yes, this year we have decided to brave the crowds and traffic and go west for New Year's. The fireworks both in Valparaiso, Viña, Reñaca, and Concon promise to be fantastic. Millions of people are projected to descend on these sister coastal cities. Although I will be ringing the New Year's in with my family, Chilean and American in a private apartment with a great view (and some great Miguel Torres Pinot Noir Brut bubbly in hand), I thought I would share my personal archive of restaurant recs in "Valpo" (as the locals call it) and Viña. These are good year round. Make sure to book now for New Year's as many restaurants actually close due to the crowds, the food prices (which triple), and hey, everyone wants a holiday too!
Note to this post: I did not include the very touristy restaurants in Valparaiso such as Cafe Turri (food overpriced and not overly impressive in my opinion), Café Brighton (diddo), Gato Tuerto (diddo). La Columbina is acceptable but there are so many new, cool restaurants with personality and "onda" (coolness) or the traditional ones that ooze history and character, that I figured you all won't probably want to dine elbow-to-elbow with fellow expats. My personal favorite is Pasta e Vino--it is sublime. Cheers and Happy New Year's!
RESTAURANT AND NEW YEAR’S RECOMMENDATIONS: VIÑA DEL MAR & VALPARAISO
Valparaiso
Alegretto, Pilcomayo 529, Cerro Concepción, (32) 968 836
Fun and unusual pizzas, to eat in or take away. Some have chicken curry, roasted vegetables, and all a great tomato base sauce. The place itself is small but very cute for a bit to eat while exploring—it looks like an old time emporium, typical of the city.
Pasta e Vino, Templeman 352, Cerro Concepción, (32) 496 187 / 09-229-1251 , pastaevino@hotmail.com
Impossible to get a table without a reservation weeks in advance. Excellent and innovative modern Italian cuisine with local fresh ingredients. The minimalist décor, precise wine list, and homey service and of course, delicious food will make you swoon. It was love at first site for me with the fava bean stuffed ravioli in an orange-tarragon reduction and plump sauteed shrimp. Somebody (and Italian!) in the kitchen knows about technique and flavor combinatinos. (Note: closed December 31 and January 1).
Apollo 77, Pasaje Apolo 77, Cerro Alegre, (32) 734 862, www.apolo77.cl
Refined gastronomy in a remodeled home. Inventive dishes like sea urchins in a nori roll with sweet potato purée, avocado and cilantro. Their desserts are particularly outstanding—molten dark chocolate brownie with homemade orange-vanilla-honey ice cream anyone?
Caruso, Avenida Cumming 201, Cerro Cárcel, (32) 594 039, caruso@vtr.net
Very fun, funky place with excellent seafood on one of Valparaiso’s newly gentrifying hills, Cerro Cárcel. Very relaxed environment with good wine menu and outstanding selection of local rockfish, harpooned by the neighboring fisherman.
Los Porteños, beside Central Market, next to Plaza Echaurren
This is where the locals go to chow down on delicious seafood right beside Valparaiso’s central market. Get there by 1:00 pm to get a table and avoid the lunch rush. The portions are huge and the turnover is impressive. Try the delicious machas a la parmesana, mussels with salsa verde, fried congrio, seared corvina (sea bass), and “ensalada chilena”, Chilean salad made of fresh tomato, sweet onion, and cilantro. Simple but good.
El Desayundor, Almirante Montt 399, Cerro Alegre, (32) 755 735
Adorable little spot to hang out for a while reading the newspaper and sipping a cappuccino. Very nice quiches, juices, and other breakfast goodies. On Sundays, they have live music and story book telling. If you go for breakfast, the eggs are delicious, as is the homemade jam.
Le Filou de Montepelier, Almirante Montt 382, Cerro Alegre, (32) 224 663
You can only get a table by reserving ahead of time. The owner is French and highlights his homeland’s food in a simple yet delicious setting. On the weekends, it is only open for lunch with a fixed menu; during the week and at night, there is an a la carte menu. It is cheap, very French, noisy, with a great dose of old world charm.
Café Vinilo, Almirante Montt 448, Cerro Alegre, (32) 230 665
Great ambience, very funky. Chill out with friends and play with the games at the tables. Good hot chocolate and background music.
J. Cruz, Pasaje Condell 1182, (32) 211 225
This is a certified hole-in-the-wall—but with authentic “porteño” atmosphere. One of the few old school haunts that has been around for decades in Valparaiso, here you can try the local specialities of the artery-blocking chorrillanas (French fries topped with steak and eggs) and fan shop (Fanta Orange Soda and Draft Beer). Live folk music, chipped formica tables, memorabilia and signatures on the walls, and cheap wine are all part of the experience.
Cinzano, Plaza Aníbal Pinto 1182, (32) 213 043
This place is a great lesson in getting to know Valparaiso’s bohemian roots. Unforgettable to listen (and dance) to the live music while having drinks.
Café Riquet, Plaza Aníbal Pinto 1199, (32) 217 014
The most classic Café in the port. Passing through its doors is to take a step back in time to a Valparaíso of decades ago. Great location and good German-style desserts (kuchens). Perfect with a café cortado, Chile’s version of the cappuccino.
Color Café, Papudo 526, Cerro Concepción, (32) 251 183, www.colorcafe.cl
Very bright, fun coffee spot with vegetarian food in Cerro Concepción. If you are into tea, this may well be your nirvana—40 different varieties make it worth a short stop to recharge your batteries.
Caleta Portales, Avenida España sin nombre, (32) 625 814
This is where the local fisherman come in and here you can try many local specialities such as the abalones (locos), razor head clams (machas), congrio (conger eel), erizos (sea urchins), etc. The place is not fancy but it is clean and as you hear the waves crash below, this is about as fresh as it gets.
La Piedra Feliz, Blanco 1067, (32) 214 644, www.lapiedrafeliz.cl
There is a bit of everything inside, from pubs to discos with chairs and dance floors. There is a tango room, salsa room, and concert hall. Good place to kick off the Porteño nights, which are infamous for being long and fun.
Pagano, Blanco 236, www.mundopagano.cl
Great spot if you are into dancing elbow-to-elbow. It is a somewhat chichi spot, perhaps the new face of the port. Check out the schedule for DJs and events.
Viña del Mar
Savinya, Avenida San Martín 199, (32) 500 700
In the 5-star Hotel del Mar/Casino on the second floor, this is the most elegant, refined, and top restaurant in Viña del Mar. The seafood is outstanding and fresh so do not hesitate to try their interesting preparations (like sea urchin flan) or the fresh oysters. The view of the ocean and boulevard below in the minimalist, chichi surroundings are astounding.
Enjoy del Mar, cannot find the address but in front of the Hotel del Mar, you cannot miss it!
Also part of the Hotel del Mar perched on the peninsula where the canal meets the ocean, here you can enjoy a lovely al fresco lunch. The daily lunch special usually includes fresh grilled fresh, selection of salads, a glass of wine, and scoop of their gourmet gelato (loads of local flavors, recommended ones are lucuma-merengue, manjar, cherimoya, etc.). You can dine inside or outside, but always with a view. The whole place is made of glass.
La Barquera, Avenida San Martín 199, (32) 500 700
On the second floor of the Hotel del Mar, next to Savinya, is the informal La Barquera with fresh salads and sandwiches—and a view as usual.
La Ciboulette, 1 Norte 191-A, (32) 690 084
The only Belgian restaurant in town, this place is worth visiting if you have an unexplained hankering for Belgian beer (it has a price tag to match how hard it is to find in Chile), pommes frites, or any sort of duck preparation (note: the paté however we ordered had been frozen, so make sure it is fresh). It is close to the Monterilla on the other side of Plaza México. Intimate, cozy atmosphere.
Divino Pecado, Av. San Martin 180, (32) 975-790
Great central location (in front of the Casino) and a cozy, friendly atmosphere make this fresh pasta restaurant naturally appealing. You can put together your own pasta dish or choose from their creative ones like squid ink ravioli stuffed with curried shrimp. All pasta dishes are served al dente. There are meat dishes available.
Barlovento, 2 Norte 195, (32) 977-472
Owned by an American, Barlovento is of modern minimalist design with lots of concrete, steel, and glass. The food is best for pick-ats and we exclusively come to drink up the cosmopolitans and Blood Marys, the only decent ones in Viña del Mar. Happy hour is worth a visit from 7pm-9pm most nights with 2 x 1 drinks.
Aquí Jaime, Avda. Borgoño 21303, Higuerillas (32) 812 042 Located on a bluff of rocks overlooking the wild Pacific in Con Con, a suburb north of Viña (fantastic drive along the coast, you can take a taxi or even the bus), this place gets packed every day at lunch and dinner for one reason: its fresh, its not expensive, and the view is unbelievable. Try the machas a la parmesana, the seared conger eel, sea scallops, everything is delicious. Get there early or better yet, make a reservation. There are beaches nearby for sunbathing before/after lunch, and paths along the ocean.
Las Deliciosas Avda. Borgoño 25370, Concon The quintessential empanadas “joint” on the coast. This place is all business (so know what you are ordering when you sit down or get to the cash register). Their specialty is one thing: empanadas, all fried (don’t even think about calories when here). Order an ice-cold beer (Royal Guard or Escudo), sit down at the plastic tables and sit back. Great picks are: machas-queso (razorhead clams-cheese), jaiba-queso (crab-cheese), mariscos (seafood sautéed in onions and reduced in clam broth), ostion-queso (scallops-queso), pino (sautéed meat). Use the ají, it adds some punch.
Bravissimo, Avda. San Martin 200 block
Bravissimo is known in all of Chile for its stellar gelatos and somehow, walking along the Viña del Mar promenade begs for one in hand. 1.000 pesos (US$2) gets you 2 flavors. The local favorites are lucuma (a baseball-sized orange fruit that has a chalky, nutty taste) with meringue (sweet crisp egg whites), manjar (milk caramel), cherimoya (custard apple), etc. My personal favorites are the pistachio, dark chocolate, arab coffee, tiramisu, hazelnut, so many…
New Year’s
The pick of the town this year for New Year’s in Viña is at the Hotel del Mar (only one block from the Monterilla, ideal to avoid traffic jams and having to take taxis to/from). There are nothing less than five fantastic parties to choose from, all with the awesome fireworks that will be put on in front of the hotel (the hotel has huge windows). The parties are:
--Ballroom: If you want to dance the night away, this is your best bet: 85.000 pesos (US$170) for adults with dinner, drinks, and music.
--La Barquera: Slightly more informal but still fun: 60.000 pesos (US$118) with dinner and drinks
--Savinya: the most elegant and exquisite of the bunch, they will put on a special gourmet New Year’s dinner with drinks: 120.000 pesos (US$235)
--El Mirador: From the top of the hotel with a privileged view will be the VIP party with similar food to Savinya, 150.000 pesos (US$300).
Other options: many restaurants actually close for New Year’s Eve because food products triple in price (hence the expense of going out) and must entertain clients all night. The restaurants that are open usually charge a price that includes dinner, drinks, and the party (right to use the establishment). However, if you want a more “popular” New Year’s all you need to do is head out with champagne in hand (you can get it in Santiago before heading out) and get to the beach promenade very early (like go to the beach in the afternoon and stay) to cop a squat on the sand or rocks to sit under the fireworks with the locals. You can also take the new metro to Valparaiso to be in the port but now that Viña is having major fireworks, I don’t think it is totally worth the trip. Valparaiso is fabulous to be discovered by day, taking its antique elevators and exploring the winding streets of Cerro Alegre, Concepción, Carcel and Bellavista (you can now get there via the brand new Metro from Viña). It really depends on what type of New Year’s you want. I have done both—both are fun and fabulous, just different flavors. Viña though has been pushing New Year’s and more than a million people are coming for a city with 200,000 inhabitants. Please bare this in mind which deciding the New Year’s style that is right for you.
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Sunday, November 06, 2005
Buenos Aires Restaurant Recommendations
Buenos Aires Restaurant Recommendations
By Liz Caskey
Ahhhh, Buenos Aires, or “BA” as we call it here in South America. Imagine the elegance of Europe, the effervescence of New York, and a profoundly Latin soul all meshing seamlessly into one city. Picture wide tree-lined boulevards lined with cafés and restaurant terraces, turn-of-the-century European architecture that could be found in Paris or Madrid, while porteños, residents of Buenos Aires, engage in passionate debates or simply sip their rich espresso, take a drag off their cigarette, and read the paper. The city is a mirror of its intensely European roots, mostly Italian and Spanish, which is even reflected in their Spanish accent with an Italian lilt and, of course, their impeccable style. There are no major visual anchors here like the Christ statue in Rio—it is utterly urban, a Mecca of fashion, art, theater, and dining. However Buenos Aires’ true charm, like its beloved tango, is the game of seduction it plays; its mesmerizing effect on residents and visitors alike. The real Buenos Aires is a city of authentic neighborhoods all with their own unique flavor: La Boca, a working class Italian district with the best parrillada in town only frequented by locals or bold tourists; the downtown area with its majestic government and civic buildings such as the “pink” government Palace; chasing the arts scene in the Corrientes district with opera in the Teatro Colón, a play at one of the numerous theaters on Avenida Corrientes, or perusing the thousands of tiny bookstores in the area; flourishing Chinatown in Belgrano with its Asian markets and Buddhist temples, a sign of the new wave of immigration bracing Argentina; Old World elegance and wealth in Recoleta where even the defunct live in mansions in the Recoleta cemetery; Palermo Viejo, once middle class, this classic Buenos Aires’ neighborhood has turned trendy with designer stores, gourmet restaurants, all done in flawless taste, while still maintaining their spirit of an époque gone by; tranquil Tigre and Olivos on the river delta north of the city accessible by urban rail, where residents lunch on the weekends, shop its open air market, and take a walk along the Rio de la Plata shores. As one of the great cosmopolitan cities of the world, Buenos Aires is city of precious jewels constantly waiting to be found—and yes, they are food and wine obsessed. Buen provecho. Here are my food picks to eat up BA—and some other recs too.
HIT, NOT TO MISS
It would be a crime to come the whole way to Buenos Aires and not eat at one of these swanky places. Ambience varies from chichi to funky, but one thing is constant: good food and cool vibes.
Casa Cruz
This is the city’s latest culinary darling, and an impressive one indeed. Juan Santa Cruz and German Martitegui (chef of Olsen) join together to offer glitz and gastronomy in Palermo Viejo. First clue the place is swish: a shiny brass door (no sign of course). The place has tables of different sizes and plush red velvet booths. It is hush and posh all at the same time. The wine cellar, a see-through version in front of the kitchen in an “air-conditioned glass box”, is impressive. We stuck with Chandon Extra Brut the whole night as we jumped all over the wine-food pairing map. Not to be missed, the fresh foie gras mousse with fresh figs and hazelnuts; Patagonian lamb fillet poached in olive oil; or Smoked Ahi tuna with avocado cream. Everything was well thought out, delicious, and yes, there is a celeb scene. We were ecstatic when we saw Charly Alberti (the drummer of famed 80s-90s band, Soda Stereo) sitting two tables over. Make reservations--and dress cool.
Uriarte 1658, Palmero Viejo (4833/1113) www.casa-cruz.com
Sucre
This is one THE PLACES to eat in BA (Casa Cruz is my other pick). With its neo-industrial design, the wine cellar is staged in the middle of the restaurant and to get to the bathroom you must cross the catwalk across the rainbow-colored bar (bottles lit up with lights). The modern Argentine cuisine, under the watchful eye of Fernando Trocca, is served from the open-kitchen in the front. The wine list is phenomenonal offering top bottles from Argentina to Chile to Bordeaux. Make friends with the Sommelier and he will give you a tour of the wine “bunker”, and help you pick out the perfect bottle. Essential to make reservations for dinner.
Sucre 676, b/t Figueroa Alcorta and Castañeda, Belgrano (4782/9082). Open noon-5pm, 8pm-1am daily.
Thymus
A foodie’s dream and journey into an unforgettable evening of food in romantic surroundings. Chef Fernando Mayoral, trained in France with Michel Bras, creates deep tasting, layered dishes fusing fresh ingredients (like the herbs from his rooftop herb garden) with exotic techniques and flavors. The house/studio/restaurant is decorated with sculptures by Martín Vergara. Elgourmet.com, the equivalent of the Food Network in Argentina, rates this as the best restaurant in the city. The tasting menu is an event not to be missed.
Lerma 525, b/t Acevedo and Malabia, Villa Crespo (4772/1936), Open 8:30pm-12:30am Tue-Sat.
Sifones y Dragones
This is like a garage or an artist’s studio that has been outfitted with a decent (but rudimentary kitchen), tables, and some funky dishware. First tip: make a reservation. It is one of the most popular joints in BA right now and has few tables. It is like going to dinner at your artist friend’s house. The owners, couple Mariana and Favio, serve up made-on-the-spot dishes (menu changes daily). It is recommendable to bring your own wine and pay the corkage (only 8 pesos) as their wine list was not overly impressive or correctly stored. It is a funky, fun eating experience. Advisable to go in taxi.
Ciudad de la Paz 174, and Santos Dumont, Colegiales (15 4413/9871). Open 9pm-2am Tue-Sat.
PARTY ALL NIGHT LONG
Argentines can stay out until the sun comes up—so why not join them? Tip: take a nap from 8-11pm, get a light bite to eat and hit the bars by midnight. If you are ambitious, go have dinner first and then go out for a drink. Double espresso with dessert is highly recommended to ward off the effects of the wine.
Olsen
German Martitegui scored big with Olsen. Opened in 2001, it soon became BA’s IT restaurant with a beautifully manicured green lawn, lofted Scandinavian design made with blonde wood. After four years, it is still packed all the time. The food is Nordic and the best bet is the infused vodkas paired with Swedish-inspired tapas. Their vodka martinis too are decadent—you can choose from many top labels such as Grey Goose (for a price). They also do Sunday brunch. Holy hangover?
Gorriti 5870, b/t Carranza and Ravignani, Palermo Viejo (4776/7677). Open noon-1:30am Tue-Sat; from 10am Sun.
Milión
Milión ROCKS. I love this bar. It is epitome of Buenos Aires hipness with great cocktails, cool surroundings, and cute bartenders that are chatty. Housed in an 80 year-old French-style mansion, the place was painstakingly restored and reborn in 1999 as Milión—a stylish bar and restaurant. Frequented by the young and the cool, it is hip without being pretentious; funky without being over the top; kickin’ while maintaining a chill vibe. The bar is upstairs as are tables if you want to dine. You can also sip and nibble in their beautiful candlelit garden. Personally though, I think the action is at the bar. Do not miss this place!
Paraná 1048, b/t Marcelo T de Alvear and Santa Fé (4815/9925). Open noon-2am Mon-Wed; noon-3am Thus; noon-4am Fri; 7:30pm-4am Sat; 8pm-2am Sun.
Gran Bar Danzón
Oh-la-la. That is the impression that Danzón gives as you crawl up the candlelit, incense-flooded stairwell. At the top, a flirty, ultra-modern design houses one of BA’s best wine bars, the sister of bistros Sucre and Bar Uriarte. Weeknights get packed in the bar with Happy Hour or Jazz night but you can find refuge in the tables—and their delicious food. You can find some inspiring finds in the “Wine Bible”, Danzón’s 200-bottle wine list, available by the bottle or the glass. It is advisable to make friends with the sommelier (who was Leandro when I was there). He leaned us towards some astounding whites from Doña Paula and a boutique winery, Alto Las Hormigas, for a great Malbec. To accompany your wine orgasm, you can munch on Latin Pan-American cuisine such as duck confit-mango rice paper roll or excellent sushi.
Libertad 1161, between Santa Fe and Arenales, Recoleta (4811/1108). Subte D, Tribunales. Open from 7pm, Mon-Fri, from 8pm Sat, Sun.
Dadá
With a screaming cherry red facade, Dadá offers modern bistro fare at decent prices in a funky surroundings: Mondrian-esque glass and a mosaic bar. The place is small and gives off vibes of a post-work drinking hole with good food more than an eating spot. We had lunch here, which was outstanding—arugula gnocchi and capresse salad. They are proponents of small wineries so try a glass of whatever they are pouring. Drinks in the evening are also fun.
San Martín 941, b/t Marcelo T de Alvear and Paraguay (4314/4787). Subte C San Martín. Open noon-2am Mon-Sat
Mundo Bizarro
Mundo Bizarro falls somewhere between a punk and underground bar with slightly kitsch décor. The vibe is totally different (very alternative) than other bars in BA. The place gets packed so get there early to steal a leather booth and camp out, or install yourself at the bar to make friends with the bartender. A DJ spins tunes from punk to house or even jazz.
Guatemala 4802, and Borges (4773/1967). Open 8pm-3am Mon-Wed; 8pm-4am Thur; 8pm-5am Fri, Sat; 8pm-3am Sun.
Central
Chi chi. Suave. Slick. This sophisticated lounge, long and narrow with lots of concrete, beautiful people as decoration, and an open-view kitchen is a pioneer in Palermo Viejo. Chef Rodrigo Tosso serves up unconfused fusion cuisine with yummy bites like super crisp yucca chips. You can chill on the white leather couches with a martini and flickering candles at night (not recommendable if you want to eat, the high chairs are more comfortable), or for a long lunch, their magazine rack has lots of good reads. Make sure to check out the high design bathrooms.
Costa Rica 5644, b/t Fitz Roy and Bonpland, Palermo Viejo (4776/7374). Open 12:30pm-2am Mon-Fri; 10:30am-3am Sat-Sun.
Omm
The owners of Central strut their stuff again with a minimalist chic bar made of chrome. All white is the theme here (with candles at night) and great service. Mojitos rule as do the tasty tapas. It is a great place to start or end a bar tour in Palermo Viejo.
Honduras 5656, b/t Fitz Roy and Bonpland, Palermo Viejo (4774/4224). Open from 6pm Mon; from 11:30am Tue-Sun.
Supersoul
Yo!! The 70s are in here with disco balls, trippy colors, and a DJ spinning groovy tunes to get you moving. Next door to its sister, the red Soul Café, have a drink at the tangerine-inspired bar. Check for music listings—they have a flow of DJs.
Báez 252, b/t Arévalo and Arguibel, Las Cañitas (4776/3905). Open from 6pm Mon-Fri, Sun; from 7pm Sat.
Voodoo Lounge
Not exactly my personal bag but since it is down the street from Supersoul it is worth mentioning. It has a groovy look to it and does spin good electronic music and cocktails. Crowd can be aloof but it could make a good stop on a bar tour.
Báez 340, b/t Arévalo and Chenaut, Las Cañitas (4772/2453). Open from 9pm Wed-Sat.
La Farmacia
Funky, cute little bar that used to be an old pharmacy and still adorned with all the medicine bottles. Space is tight so cop a squat where you can find one and order a drink or glass of wine. Good food if the munchies attack.
Bolívar 898, and Estados Unidos, San Telmo. (4300/6151). Open 9am-1:30am Tue-Thur; 9am-2:30am Sat-Sun.
Lomo
This hip multi-space restaurant joins art, music, good drinks, and lots of meat. In fact, lomo in Spanish means fillet, or “hot bod”, if you are speaking the local slang. They have a beautiful zen-like terrace, great for a drink under the stars even if you decide to skip dinner. For us gals, word of warning—leave the stilettos at home if you are heading up to the terrace. The steps are brutal—especially after a few drinks—and the bathroom is on the first floor.
Costa Rica 4661, b/t Gurruchaga and Armenia, Palermo Viejo (4833/3200). Open 8:30pm-2am Mon. Tue-Sun from 9am.
LUNCH SPOTS
Lunch is one of those pleasurable experiences in Buenos Aires, very unrushed, very European with a lingering sensation. It is also the main meal of the day for most people so you can order inspiring main courses or lighter fare. Although all these places offer dinner, I felt the ambience was better at lunch. With a glass of wine and some optional sun on the terrace, there is no way to go wrong.
Lo de Jesús
I must confess. I love this place! Its cuteness and eye-catching exterior won me over from the get-go. On a quiet, typical Palermo Viejo corner, this grocery-store-cum-bar is painted a mesmerizing shade of turquoise, with retro-style windows hung with lace curtains. Inside, its checker board floor, imposing mahogany bar, old photos, soda water still served in fountain bottles, and chalkboards with the daily specials, create the feeling of another time. Now an upscale parrilla, it was born in 1953 by Jesus Pernas (Lo de Jesús in Spanish means Jesus’ Place). Good prosciutto, grilled provolone. Try the daily grilled fish like paraná or abadejo, or their tantalizing bife.
Gurruehaga 1406 with Cabrera, Palermo Viejo (4831/1961). Open 10am-2am, daily.
Social Paraíso
One of the original pavement blazers in Palermo Viejo, this comfortable, democratic, and cute bistro serves up honest, fresh flavors with a slight Mediterranean lilt to the young and old, funky and nerd, in and out. It is the quintessential lunch spot while cruising the art galleries or designer clothing stores, or perhaps a quite night out with your favorite date. Lunch menu is an excellent value.
Honduras 5182, b/t Thames and Uriarte, Palermo Viejo (4831/4556). Open 12:30-4pm, 8:30pm-midnight Tue-Sat; 12:30-4pm Sun.
Bar 6
One of the coolest hangouts, eating, and drinking spots in Palermo Viejo. The architecture rules here with a soft curved, Scandinavian-style ceiling made of natural wood, contrasted against concrete floors and walls. Coupled with their plush, comfy couches, what more could you want for chilling out with friends, a newspaper, Mojito, or one of their delicious daily specials. DJs make an appearance on the weekend with cool music.
Armenia 1676, b/t El Salvador and Honduras, Palermo Viejo (4833/6807). Open from 8am, Mon-Sat.
Bar Uriate
All you see from the street is the kitchen through a glass-plate window. Passers-by can stop to watch the chefs cook with the silence and concentration of Swiss watchmakers. Part of the trio including Sucre and Gran Bar Danzón, this eatery puts on a great lunch menu in well-designed digs in Palermo Viejo. Its menu is Mediterranean-influenced with delicious risottos and raviolis, or pizzas crisped to perfection in the adobe oven.
Uriarte 1572, b/t Honduras and Gorriti, Palermo Viejo. (4834/6004). Open noon-2:30am, daily.
Bo Bo
A stylish, low-key boutique hotel off a shady street in Palermo Viejo, the restaurant and hotel playing on the Bourgeois Bohemians, or Bobos (see David Brooks book, Bobos in Paradise: The New Upper Class and How They Got There, link: http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0684853787/...). The menu is Modern Argentinean with a heavy dose of Italian influence (we had a delicious shrimp fettuccine). Service was skimpy but the comfortable booths and glass of wine made the wait tolerable.
Guatemala 4882, b/t Borges and Thames, Palermo Viejo (4774-0505). Open 8am-2am daily.
Bio
Give your digestive system a break from all the beef and enjoy a light lunch at this charming little lunch spot in a perfect location in Palermo Viejo. The vegetarian fare here is so good you won’t miss the meat. The menu changes frequently to represent what is seasonally available. Excellent gourmet soups, salads, and a variety of fresh juices available year-round.
Humboldt 2199, and Guatemala, Palermo Viejo (4774/3880). Open 10am-3pm Mon; 10am-1am Tue-Sun.
ETHNIC
Like all great cities of the world, and Buenos Aires is one of them, there is an ethnic offering of all the nationalities that have helped to mold and develop the gastronomy. Buenos Aires may be well known for its steak and pasta but venture beyond that to discover these tantalizing restaurants, especially if you live in an “ethnic food starved” city, like Santiago, Chile!
Bereber
Attacked with an unstoppable Moroccan food hankering while in Buenos Aires? Look no farther. This modern restaurant makes its own merguez (spicy lamb sausage), fluffy couscous, and a variety of steaming tagines. The tagines and other slow-cooked dishes make love to Argentina’s glorious meat. Although porteños are wimps with the spicy factor, a little side dosing of Harissa will light up your palate. If the weather permits, you can dine alfresco on the terrace.
Armenia 1886, b/t Costa Rica and Nicaragua, Palermo Viejo (4833/5662). Open 8pm-1am daily.
Sarkis
I love Levantine cuisine and was pysched to find it in BA. If you are wondering what cuisine this is, Levantine cuisine covers the Middle East at the eastern edge of the Mediterranean: Syria, Jordan, Lebanon and Egypt. If you have never tried it, do yourself a favor and get to this joint. Forget about the fluorescent lighting, elbow the locals to a table and order up dips, kebabs, eggplant and lamb dishes. You can make a meal out of the starters. Recommendable with a group as you can try lots more.
Thames 1101, and Jufre, Villa Crespo (4772/4911). Open noon-3pm, from 8pm daily.
Filo
This place was one of the first cool pizza joints back in the 90s in Buenos Aires. Its popularity continues strong, especially for pizza-worshippers. The food is straight-up modern Italian cuisine which also calls itself an “art restaurant” and bar. Try their creative salads, homemade al dente pastas, 100 kinds of crisp pizzas or paninis. To wash all that down there is a long list of champagne and drinks (including many imported whiskeys).
San Martin 975, b/t Marcelo T de Alvear and Paraguay, Retiro (4311/0312), Subte C San Martín. Open from noon daily.
Empire Thai
Doesn’t look like much from outside but this low-lit, Thai hole-in-the-wall serves up the gamut of curries (from tongue-numbing hot perfect for the Brit crowd to almost sweet for those spice phobic Argentineans). Great vodka martinis (choose your specific poison). Even if you are not in the mood to eat, it is a good place for a drink and a nibble. The satays were delicious.
Tres Sargentos 427, b/t San Martín and Reconquista (4312/6106). Subte C, Retiro. Open noon-1am Mon-Fri; 7pm-1am Sat.
Dashi
Sushi in Buenos Aires? Agreed that it isn’t the most natural association given that beef is king, however, if you have a craving for sushi, or Japanese food in general, this is your best bet. With vast windows in a prime spot in Palermo Viejo, you can sit in the gray and rose interior and nosh on stellar rolls and sashimi (fish selections are not as varied as in other parts of the world). Hot and non-fish/seafood dishes are also exquisite for the non sushi goers.
Fitz Roy 1613, and Gorriti, Palermo Viejo (4776/3500). Open 12:30-3pm, 8pm-1am Mon-Fri; 8pm-1am Sat.
Green Bamboo
Posed on a picturesque Palermo corner with lots of window-side tables, this place is decidedly oriental and somewhat elegant, but a couple key pieces of art, like the Ho Chi Minh warhol-esque painting and dangling pearl curtains, give it a funky feel. The food, Vietnamese style, is dead on. Do NOT miss the prawn rice paper rolls—delicate, aromatic, crisp, and crunchy, they hit all the taste buds in exactly the right way.
Costa Rica 5802, and Carranza, Palermo Viejo (4775/7050). Open 8:30pm-2:30am Daily.
Sudestada
This super swish, Pan-Asian restaurant oozes coolness from its strategically located Palermo Viejo corner. In minimalist digs, you can down delectable dishes from Laos, Thailand, Burma, and Vietnam (the chef’s home country). Once again, place your bets on the spring rolls for starters and the pork in spicy peanut sauce (warn any Argentineans accompanying you for fear of burning their palate). For dessert, make sure to leave room for their Vietnamese coffee.
Guatemala 5602, and Fitz Roy, Palermo Viejo (4776/3777). Open noon-3:30pm, 8pm-midnight Mon-Sat.
Palitos
Belgrano is the epicenter for the boom in the Chinese immigration to Argentina. At this Taiwanese restaurant in the barrio chino, you can eat up specialties like sweet-and-sour chicken, eggs rolls, or even venison. The crowd is all ages and the lunch menu is astounding cheap (I won’t even tell you how much, go check it out!). Meander around the area after—it is full of Buddhist temples, Asian grocery stores, and tea houses. A fascinating voyage into one of Argentina’s fastest growing immigrant communities.
Arribeños 2243, b/t Mendoza and Olazabal, Belgrano (4786/8566). Open noon-4pm, 8pm-2am Tue-Sun.
PARRILLADAS & BODEGONES
Che, forget about the sushi, sophistication, and coolness for a while, these traditional restaurants, specializing in meat and pasta, offer food that most porteños can afford. It is not fancy but simple, honest food. Most of them are adorned with shrines of their favorite soccer teams, Carlos Gardel, ex-presidents and have whole hams or cheeses hanging from the ceiling. Many are a reflection of the owner’s heritage (Spain or Italy). They are full of local color and if want to eat on the cheap with the locals, here you go. Cabaña Las Lilas is the only exception.
Cabaña Las Lilas
This is the equivalent of Peter Luger’s steakhouse (New York) in Buenos Aires--being that it is the premier place to try a steak (although Happening just down the docks is a close second). With high prices to match, you can try Angus and Hereford steaks grilled to perfection in cuts like the succulent bife de chorizo. Sommeliers on staff can help you navigate the gargantuan wine list.
Alicia Moreau de Justo 516, b/t Corrientes and Perón, Puerto Madero. Subte B, LN Alem. Open noon-3:30pm; 7:30pm-midnight, daily.
Rodi Bar
This place is a bit of an oddity in Recoleta—first because of its price and lack of glamour. Straight out of Galicia (northwestern Spain), the menu is Spanish with traditional dishes like hake and octopus in the regional style. They also have great steak. The ambience is old world and friendly and makes for a casual but tasty lunch.
Vicente López 1900, and Ayacucho, Recoleta (4801/5230).
El Obrero
This is only for those willing to go on an adventure. It is hard to find and in a very rough-and-tumble area of La Boca (don’t even think about not going in a taxi). However, it has a buzz because the word is out: it is a museum of porteño (culinary) culture. The walls are a shrine to various soccer teams, the place is slowly falling apart (try to avoid the bathroom), but the locals and some occasional celebs pack in for the humongous heapings of Argentinean beef, sweetbreads, and morcilla, the blood sausage (which is delicious!). This is a classic popular (meaning “mass”) steak joint. It is best to go in a group and settle in for a looooong lunch or dinner.
Agustín Caffarena 64, y Pedro de Mendoza, La Boca (4362/9912).
El Desnivel
Right off the antique drag near the Plaza Dorrego in San Telmo, this is a decent stop to recharge your batteries while moseying in San Telmo (Sunday’s by 1pm, the place is a mob scene). It has good, noisy ambience, mediocre but cheap food, huge steaks manned from the grill at the entrance, and service is friendly and prompt. The clientele is a mix of tourists, locals, and expats. Try the grilled provolone but avoid the pastas (overcooked). Wines are nothing special so it is best to stick to cold beer.
Defensa 855, b/t Independencia and Estados Unidos, San Telmo (4300/9081), Subte C, Independencia.
Cafés
Just like in Paris, café culture is vital to Buenos Aires. Porteños meet at all times of the day to discuss politics, literature, soccer, catch up with old friends, read the paper, or smoke a Marlboro with an espresso. Join them to take a pause in the day, or simply observe Argentinean culture up close.
Tortoni
The quintessential Buenos Aires café. Opened in 1858, come here to soak up the traditional atmosphere and history where different literati and politicians have debated for more than a century over a strong double espresso. Although recent press has made Tortoni more a spot on the sightseeing circuit, go anyway. It is an important reference in understanding the importance of cafés and coffee in Argentina.
Avenida de Mayo 829, b/t Piedras and Tacuarí (4342/4328). Subte A, Piedras. Open 8am-3am, Mon-Sat; 9am-1am Sun.
Bar Plaza Dorrego
Right on the corner of Plaza Dorrego, this tanguero bar, serving beers and cocktails for more than a century. It screams nostalgia with dusty bottles, scribbling on the walls, picture frames of Carlos Gardel, and dim lighting. It is perhaps the perfect spot to spend an afternoon over a schopp and peanuts, checking out the rhythm of the antiques market.
Defensa 1098, and Humberto I (4361/0141). Open 8am-3am daily.
Mark’s Deli
Mark’s Deli for me is what coffeehouses were about back before the era of Starbucks and all the chains. Funny I found it in BA. It has a gringo feel to it and they serve lovely coffee drinks, especially Iced Coffee in the summertime, in addition to chilled lemonade, great chocolate chip cookies, and filling sandwiches. Easy to spot from far away; it is painted Crush orange.
El Salvador 4701, and Armenia (4832/6244). Open 8:30am-9:30pm, Mon-Sat; 10:30am-9pm Sun.
Osara
Yummmm…take a big whiff. Your senses will be soothed with the homey smells of freshly ground and brewed coffee and dark chocolate brownies. Kick back by one of the windows for a view of the street life and read a book or write in your journal. It is the perfect way to chill out for an hour—or two.
Borges 1730, b/t Russell and El Salvador. Open 10am-10pm Tue, Wed; 10am-11pm Thur; 10am Fri; from 2pm Sat; 2-10pm Sun.
Wine Shops
Calling all wine geeks and wine lovers. Do not miss your big chance in BA to stock up on Argentinean wine. There is so much more happening there than Malbec. Get to a couple of these wine stores to find out about the sparkling wine scene, the San Juan province, Malbecs of different styles, and of course, impossible-to-get bottles outside Argentina. I will be posting an article on Argentine wine in the next month.
La Finca
A required stop for all wine geeks interested in picking up some hard-to-find bottles from garage and boutique wineries in the Mendoza region. The shop itself is very cute and homey, with the owner, José Carlos Candisano, personally guiding clients to winning bottles. Here I picked up the fabulous Lagún, a totally different style of Malbec and Sangre de Toro (still in the cellar). They have coordinated wine tastings too for 6 or more people with tapas.
Costa Rica 4615, b/t Armenia and Gurruchaga (4832/3004). Open 11am-midnight daily.
Grand Cru
Very chichi and top notch wine store. You can find prized bottles here from all over the world. Prices match the sophistication.
Avenida Alvear 1718, b/t Callao and Rodríguez Peña, Recoleta (4816/3975). Open 10am-8pm Mon-Fri; 10am-2pm Sat.
Ligier
In Chile we have the Mundo del Vino, in Buenos Aires you have Ligier. Catering towards tourists, the shop attendants are a wealth of information in helping you pick out bottles in your style and price range from the different regions of Argentina.
Avenida Santa Fe 800, and Esmeralda, Retiro (4515/0126). Subte C, San Martin. Alternate location: Av. Callao 1111, and Santa Fe (4815/8100). www.ligier.com.ar
Winery
Ligier’s competition but with a more modern twist and different wine selection; particularly impressive was the sparkling wine from Mendoza. Some locations have wine bars and/or serve up yummy bites to try the wines.
Corrientes 302, and 25 de mayo, Microcentro (4394/2200). Open 9am-8pm Mon-Fri; 9am-2pm Sat. Other locations: Av. LN Alem 880, Retiro (4311/6607); Av. Del Libertador 5100 Belgrano (4774/1190); Av. Del Libertador 500, Retiro. www.winery.com.ar
Terroir
Make sure you leave the hotel with address in hand as the signage for Terroir is non-existent at best. Just ding the doorbell to come in. As with many exclusive shops, half the fun is being “in the know” to get there. But don’t worry, the owners are friendly and their fine wine selection from both Argentina and the rest of the world is impressive. They ship anywhere, including US addresses.
Buschiazzo 3040, b/t Seguí and Av. Del Libertador, Palermo (4778/3443). Open 10:30am-9pm Mon-Sat. www.terroir.com.ar
Hotel Picks
So many hotels in so many locations. I am partial to Barrio Norte in Recoleta near Santa Fe. It is a gorgeous, well-located area half way between the Microcentro and Retiro and Palermo Viejo. Lots of shopping on Santa Fe, manicure and massages, and Danzón and Milión are in this area. Art Hotel in my opinion, is BA’s best hotel deal ever. It is like staying in a boutique hotel in Paris, for a fraction of the price.
Art Hotel
Opened in March 2004, this old mansion, typical of the Recoleta area has been remodeled into 36 rooms with neo-industrial and designer chic. A very European (overwhelmingly French) vibe makes it popular with Europeans. The rooms are small but well equipped. The location and price are a great value.
Azcuénaga 1268, b/t Arenales and Beruti, Recoleta (4821/4744). www.arthotel.com.ar
Design Suites & Towers
Minimalist suites in a good location. Rooms are the white, steel, wood trio with lots of natural light. Certain suites can accommodate up to 4-5 people.
Marcel T de Alvear 1683, b/t Rodríguez Peña and Montevideo (4814/8700) www.designsuites.com
Hotel Bel Air
Another good choice in the Barrio Norte area is the Bel Air, off the charming Plaza Vicente López (note: this is gourmet heaven with lots of “goodie shops”, cheese, chocolate, teas, sweets, wine all within blocks). The hotel is from the 1920s and funky. It is also very popular. Book early.
Arenales 1462, b/t Uruguay and Paraná, Recoleta (4021/4000). www.hotelbelair.com.ar
Alvear Palace
This is the Shangra-La of Buenos Aires. Built in the 1930s and taking up a full half block, there are more Armani and Chanel spottings outside this hotel than anyplace else in the city. The rooms are opulent, decadent, elegant and come with Hermés bathroom toiletries. Service is impeccable—you can even hire a private butler. All of this, of course, for a price.
Avda. Alvear 1891, b/t Callao and Ayacucho, Recoleta (4808/2100) www.alvearpalace.com
LoiSuites
In the heart of Recoleta, this 100+ all-suite hotel is super chichi and contemporary. A splurge? Absolutely. The lobby is white and open, the garden charming, the rooms impeccable. Once again, book early. There are other LoiSuites in town, but this one is by far is the coolest and most popular one.
Vicente López 1955, b/t Junín and Ayacucho (5777/8950) www.loisuites.com.ar
Faena Hotel + Universe
I am debating if I even should include this, but as a Philippe Starcke admirer, I feel somewhat obligated. This is more than a hotel, this is an “experience”—maybe if David Lynch designed and produced a hotel! Supposedly the lastest, greatest, coolest, and most design hotel in BA, I personally found it to be all hype. I went to check it out and have dinner there. We didn’t order a martini. It is showy and posh, almost over the top but more to the point, it felt pretentious and the location stinks (you are in the boonies of Puerto Madero which means you are taxi-dependent. In fact, it felt more like the US suburbs more than BA). If you are going to spend that kind of money, personally I recommend the Alvear. Or if you want an international chain, Caesar Park or the Four Seasons.
Martha Salotti 445, Dique 2, Madero Este, Puerto Madero (4010/9000) www.faenaexperience.com
Bobo
Opened last year with only 7 rooms, this designer B&B in Palermo Viejo is affordable luxury. All the rooms have a different theme. A decent option if you want to mostly check out Palermo Viejo and its restaurants, shops, cafés, art galleries, etc.
Guatemala 4882, and Thames, Palermo Viejo (4774/0505) www.bobohotel.com)
Malabia House
Remodeled in 2004, this historic home in the heart of Palermo Viejo has been renovated into 15 rooms, all with their own décor. It has the warm feeling of a B&B where you can hang out in the living room or garden with the other cool people staying there. Privileged location in Palermo Viejo. You will never have to take a taxi anywhere to go out at night. I have found it to get pricier in the past year or so.
Malaba 1555, b/t Gorriti and Honduras, PalermoViejo (4833/2410) www.malabiahouse.com.ar
Che Lulu
This is the only budget recommendation but a good dato. Hidden in Palermo Viejo, Che Lulu is an old, renovated house (still a little rough around the edges) with a lot of personality. There’s an antique staircase, a roof terrace, patio, and lots of hip people to hang out with. Rooms are brightly painted with individual names. You can opt for private room with private bath or dorm room style. It falls somewhere between a hostel and B&B. It has been recommended for those on a budget or traveling alone as it is easy to meet traveling companions. Very homey.
Pasaje Emilio Zola 5185, b/t Justo Santa María de Oro and Godoy Cruz, Palermo Viejo (4772/0289) www.luluguesthouse.com
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Monday, October 03, 2005
Santiago Restaurant Recommendations, Part II (English)
Santiago Restaurant Recommendations, Part II (English)
Just a Nibble...
De la Ostia
Tío, as the Spanish say, this is the perfect place for a drink and light pick-at dinner any day of the week. The fare is typical Spanish serving up yummy tapas and pinxos like fried calamari, salt cod croquettes, seared octopus over potatoes. The famous pinxo de la ostia is delicious, made with morcilla, blood sausage (don’t be put off by it, it is sweet and very tasty), roasted red pepper and scallops. Excellent selection of wines by the glass: try the Carmen Viduare; or their cocktails, if you choose to go this route, are decent. I personally fall for the spicy Bloody Marys or when in doubt, vodka tonic is always a safe bet.
Orrego Luco 065, Providencia, 335-1422
Olio Santo
Located in the up-and-coming bar area around Manuel Montt and Avda. Providencia, this cozy little Italian tapas bar has one of the most rocking happy hours in Santiago, 2x1 until 9pm. Great vodka martinis and mojitos (use precaution as they are loaded) and little bites like eggplant parmigiana, pizzas, and different types of bruschetta. Perfect location a corner coming out of the Manual Montt metro.
Providencia 1355, Providencia, 235-3956
Around-the-World, Around-the-World
Akarana
New Zealand native Dell Taylor pulls off an impressive show here with Pan-international cuisine, reflecting the mixture of cooking styles in her native country. From Indian-style lamb curry to Asian-accented starters to homemade sweet potato gnocchi, the food is great, table and customer service is way above par, and the wine list is easy to navigate: each wine is described to a T, making selection a breeze. The restaurant also has a couple added bonuses: it is less than a block from the Ritz-Carlton for those staying there; is open on Sunday and has “gringo” hours (read: you can eat early here); and for a light dinner, gives the option of appetizer or entrée portions.
Reyes Lavalle 3310, Las Condes, 231-9667
Le Flaubert
This charming little bistro is a tiny piece of France in Chile. Located in a beautiful old home typical of the Providencia area, its creaky wood floors, 1940s jazz, and shady terrace are the perfect setting to try its lovely homemade paté, duck confit or some of their daily specials like roasted sea bass. In the entrance, there is a “goody” shop to stock up on all the gourmet essentials like tea, jams and preserves, honey, and flavored oils.
Orrego Luco 125. F: 231-9424
Boca Bistro
One of the hipsters in the Orrego Luco restaurant crowd, Boca is a great lunch rendezvous. Its front room is on the dark side but charming with the low lighting; or if you prefer al fresco, it has a semi-enclosed patio in the back. Lunch time menus are a good value for money (3.500 pesos for a main course with a glass of wine) and satisfying: they follow the K.I.S.S. rule (keep it simple stupid) by going with home cooking in cool environs. Service can be pokey at times so don’t go in a rush. Lingering social or business lunches in the vicinity are perfect.
Orrego Luco 040, Providencia, 333-3054
Frederick’s
The newest darling in the downtown area, a mere block from La Moneda, the government palace, Frederick’s is a modern bistro serving up gringo fare (it should be as the owner is English). If souped-up hamburgers and fries, shrimp risotto, seared salmon over couscous, Chicken Caesar salad, and other delectable dishes are your thing, then this is a good haunt for lunch. The only negative comment would be that service tends to be slow. On different occasions a full lunch has taken over 1.5 hours so my suggestion is not to go with a tight schedule—it could mean chaos. Reservations are recommended since many Ministries are in the vicinity. You never know, you could rub elbows with the President here!
Almirante Gotuzzo 102, Santiago Centro, 699-8399
Tiramisú
Great pizzas. Tiramisú does have pasta, salads, and other dishes but I have never tried them. I cannot get past the pizzas: the thin, crispy pizza with a light, tangy tomato sauce, creamy mozzarella and thinly, salty-sweet prosciutto with bitter, refreshing, crunchy arugula. Make a reservation, get there early, or order out. This place is packed every day at lunch and dinner—with reason.
Isidora Goyenechea 3141, Las Condes, 335-5135
El Chalán
Peruvian food in Chile is what Mexican food is in California: authentic and exquisite. Peruvian immigrants are heating up Chilean palates with their dynamite use of chilies, spices, potatoes, grains, and complex flavors. There are a multitude of Peruvian restaurants here in Santiago: Barandiarán, El Otro Sitio, El Vagón, Costa Nazca, Sarita Colonia (back in the day) to name a few. I have eaten at all of these on several occasions and have found that they are not as good as El Chalán. El Chalán is for locals in the know and those serious about Peruvian food. Start with the pisco sours (don’t drink too fast or you WILL get hammered). Then try a delicious ceviche, either corvina (sea bass) or mixed seafood; or tiradito which is sashimi-quality sea bass flattened like carpaccio and dosed with chilies, key lime juice and cilantro. The fish is impeccably fresh. Other recommended dishes: fried calamari, seco de cordero (slow-cooked lamb), ají de gallina (shredded chicken in creamy walnut-turmeric sauce), and prawn dishes. Everything is delicious, blow caution to the wind and be adventurous.
Manuel Montt 1616, Providencia, 204-0989
Majestic
We all have ethnic food hankerings and this is where we go when we crave Indian food in Santiago. First thing, very important: make a reservation, and not 2 hours before or you won’t get a table. This is a tiny little gem of a restaurant in an unassuming Best Western hotel (called the Hotel Majestic fittingly) in the downtown area. The restaurant smells like heaven: the spices wafting in the air make your gastric juices churn upon entering. The menu may look like a medium-length novel but try not to get bogged down: focus on what meat (or vegetable) you are in the mood for. Majestic is best enjoyed with a group where each person orders a different curry and shares. Save room for dessert: the pistachio kulfi is unreal. A total orgasm for your palate.
Santo Domingo 1526, Santiago Centro, 695-8366
Rivoli
Rivoli is the first and the last word on fresh pasta in Santiago in every imaginable way. The sauces are clean-tasting and sublime: the tomatoes and herbs are from their own organic garden; they make their own fresh mozzarella; they use premium olive oil—what more could you want? You can definitely tell there is an Italian in the kitchen working his magic.
Nueva de Lyon 77, Providencia, 231-7969
The Buzzzz....
Suco
In need of a vitamin or sugar rush—or even a cure for a hangover? Head for Suco. This super cool, smoothie, juice and gourmet sandwich bar in El Bosque area of the city is a delicious and great value for money. Try their tantalizing juices like Carrot-Orange; or their icy smoothies like Berry Juvenator; or when your liver is down on life after a big night, the Morning After blends orange, papaya, and cucumber juices to help you heal. Stop in for lunch to try their exquisite homemade soups and gourmet sandwiches—and if calories aren’t an issue, the tempting baked goods--owner Miriam Harrison’s personal specialty.
Roger de Flor 2971, Las Condes, 475-4092
The Coffee Club
Rich, aromatic coffees from Guatemala, Costa R